Where Are the Whales?




Day 19
Campsites without a view

Drove 4 hours into Big Sur and stopped by Fernwood Campground and it was cute and rustic right off the highway.  There is a creek that runs through it and the place was full of beautiful redwood trees.  The canvas cabins are underneath redwood trees.  The showers need quarters and the restroom was nice with hot water. 




Campsites off the creek
Canvas tent


I stopped at the Big Sur Bakery recommended by Fabrizio Alberico.  I had a strudel, peach filling with toasted sliced almonds.  It was amazing but I don’t think it was vegetarian, definitely not vegan.  It was a meal all in itself.  The pastry was loaded and it was heavy, totally knocked me out.  I had it with hot water in a coffee ceramic bowl out on the deck underneath a redwood tree over looking mountains.  The ocean breeze was too cold for staying longer than I need to finish my pastry.  It’s like Titanic iceberg wind.  I don’t think I will camp in this area tonight because of the cold. 



A pretty restroom outside.
Yum, super loaded with fat, not good for staying awake

View from the deck
Cactus flowers are amazingly beautiful


I stopped by Riverside Campground and took a shower.  I stopped by the Carmel River beach and sat on the sand.  Then I drove to Carmel followed Carmel by the Sea route and found Carmel Beach after following a car with surf board.  The water is celadon green here.  The waves are beautiful for surfing, makes me want to surf.   What a lovely place! 



The dogs here are pretty, healthy, and happy dogs.  A passerby told me how to look out for hunchback whales behind the kelp clusters and to watch the ocean, they come up for breath.  So I watched the surfers and also looked out for whales.  I sat underneath a coastal pine tree and had tea.  It was still cold here and I had to put on layers to stay warm.  I didn’t want to miss the whales so I didn’t leave the spot.  But somehow I missed them because I didn’t see them while a Persian couple that passed by told me they did and they saw two come up for air.  How did I miss them? 

I must have missed them when I cooked instant noodles.  The noodles cooled in the cold air as I lifted them to take bites and as a result of this cooling, they were perfectly chewy. 

At 5pm I was just too cold to continue my whale watching quest.  I moved into the car and watched the whales from there for another hour.  I gave up on sunset viewing because the overcast completely covered the horizon.

I drove and walked around to look for places to eat and sleep for the night. The houses here are beautiful and charming.  I shopped on the main strip. Everyone is so beautifully groomed here, even their dogs.  I am so under dressed to be anywhere in these shops or on the street.  I am so under groomed.  I am so glad I got to take a shower.    

At 7:30pm, I was super tired, done, out of internal gas tank, couldn’t stay awake any longer.