After all the security checks I was able to actually be on the plane. I went for my seat on the plane and found a elder French lady sitting in my seat. She had hard hearing and sat in my center seat of three in our row. I just let that be and sat in the isle and introduced myself to the two ladies in my row. The other lady was Linda from Australia and she sat at the window.
Linda is a high school teacher. She told me after landing in Delhi she is heading straight to Dharmsala on a bus. Well, I invited myself onto her 12 day tour in India. She agreed to pair up with me. I told her at any point she can tell me to go if it wasn't working out for her. I think we were both relieved to have someone to travel with in India. Plus, she did her homework on India and had a the Lonely Planet, that was color coded. So, I understand now why I had to miss the two buses into India. I understand why I had to be on this particular airplane. I had to meet and pair up with Linda and travel together in India.
When the meal carts came down the isle, something smelled rancid. It was gross. And when the cart came to me, it had already run out of vegetarian meals. I was offered chicken and I was quite offended and upset. It would have been betterto not to offer me chicken. All land all, I think it was a good thing to have run out of meals because it saved me from a possible upset digestion system. I have been on good blessings to be in good health all this time. I haven't had to use any of the medicine I brought for myself. I have had the opportunities to share them with others who needed them. It was a good thing I had Mr.Gupta's samosas.
More Kidnapping Stories
Upon entering the airport the security guards blocked my entry because I didn't have a ticket. I tried to explain that they needed to let me in so that I can buy a ticket. The guard then explained to me that I needed to leave the airport compound into the city to an agency to get a ticket that I am not allowed to enter without a ticket. We went back and forth. Then finally I asked o ne of them to escort me inside to the counter so I can buy a ticket, so that I can have a ticket to be in the airport so that I can get onto a plane. After I passed the initial x-ray check, the guard did not follow or try to continue to explain how I can not enter without a ticket.
As I approached the counter lines, I was clear that I wanted to go to the right line but my body moved toward the left line with one person in line. It appear to be the shorter line and indeed it was. But it turned out to be the longer line because this person had trouble with her reservation and she was there for a long time. I moved back to the right line where there were lots of people but at least the line was actually moving.
When I approached the counter, the man told me the flight was full. My only chance was with Royal Nepal after 2:30pm for the after 5pm take off flight. I explain to him that such an arrangement was no good because I as a single female should not enter Delhi in the evening without housing arrangements etc.... He assured me that my safety was not a problem and of course I insisted it was. I told him I would appreciate it very much if he could find a way to arrange a possible seat for me that I didn't mind sitting and waiting.
So I sat opposite the counter for the next two hours and recited with my beads. All the airport security thought I was Nepalese and would approach me in Nepalese in attempt to move my bag incase it was suspiciously dangerous. As they approach they would see my Buddhist recitation beads and back away. Others would point to my clothes and show signs of approval after discovering that I was not Nepalese.
During the wait I met an Indonesian family who wanted to know how it was for me to travel alone. I responded by saying, " It can be scary at times and there would be be no one to talk things over." The reconmended that I visit Indonesia but warned me about getting kidnapped and sold as a single female traveling and no one would know you have disappeared.
Right before the counter closed I approached the counter and the man let me on with a seat. I had one hour before departure for boarding. This was new for me, usually it's twenty minutes before departure when boarding is called. I later learned why this was so. There were two other security checks after baggage check in one to enter the gate and one to board the plane. So in total there were three security check in this airport. Everytime there was a check, everything was rechecked top to bottom. The security took the battery out of my flash light but allowed me to keep my bottled water and all my lotions.
As I approached the counter lines, I was clear that I wanted to go to the right line but my body moved toward the left line with one person in line. It appear to be the shorter line and indeed it was. But it turned out to be the longer line because this person had trouble with her reservation and she was there for a long time. I moved back to the right line where there were lots of people but at least the line was actually moving.
When I approached the counter, the man told me the flight was full. My only chance was with Royal Nepal after 2:30pm for the after 5pm take off flight. I explain to him that such an arrangement was no good because I as a single female should not enter Delhi in the evening without housing arrangements etc.... He assured me that my safety was not a problem and of course I insisted it was. I told him I would appreciate it very much if he could find a way to arrange a possible seat for me that I didn't mind sitting and waiting.
So I sat opposite the counter for the next two hours and recited with my beads. All the airport security thought I was Nepalese and would approach me in Nepalese in attempt to move my bag incase it was suspiciously dangerous. As they approach they would see my Buddhist recitation beads and back away. Others would point to my clothes and show signs of approval after discovering that I was not Nepalese.
During the wait I met an Indonesian family who wanted to know how it was for me to travel alone. I responded by saying, " It can be scary at times and there would be be no one to talk things over." The reconmended that I visit Indonesia but warned me about getting kidnapped and sold as a single female traveling and no one would know you have disappeared.
Right before the counter closed I approached the counter and the man let me on with a seat. I had one hour before departure for boarding. This was new for me, usually it's twenty minutes before departure when boarding is called. I later learned why this was so. There were two other security checks after baggage check in one to enter the gate and one to board the plane. So in total there were three security check in this airport. Everytime there was a check, everything was rechecked top to bottom. The security took the battery out of my flash light but allowed me to keep my bottled water and all my lotions.
Mr. Gupta
Went to the tailor to pick up my outfits. The skirt was three inches too wide. The blue saraware was not cut to order. I asked for pockets but none was provided. Despite all that, it is really nice to have things tailored to my size and especially my height. Stopped at Mr. Gupta's for somosas. I really like his samosas.
Lunch it was more or less the same thing cooked by Anuja's mom. It's still the same weird feeling of full and hungry the same time. Even in my dreams I dream about being hungry. Afterwards we exchanged gifts. I handed them cards I made. Anuja gave me a friendship bracelet she made and Anar handed me beaded bracelets. Juno handed me 20 rupees just incase I needed it for the airport, I accepted it because she really wanted me to have it.
Suraj and Juno walked out to the street with me to get a cab. A cab was negotiated for me for 100 rupees. We parted for good.
Lunch it was more or less the same thing cooked by Anuja's mom. It's still the same weird feeling of full and hungry the same time. Even in my dreams I dream about being hungry. Afterwards we exchanged gifts. I handed them cards I made. Anuja gave me a friendship bracelet she made and Anar handed me beaded bracelets. Juno handed me 20 rupees just incase I needed it for the airport, I accepted it because she really wanted me to have it.
Suraj and Juno walked out to the street with me to get a cab. A cab was negotiated for me for 100 rupees. We parted for good.
Driven By Raiders of the Night
When we exited the plane both Linda and I withdrew money at the ATM. While exiting the customs, I noticed right away that it was not possible to stay at the airport and camp out till the morning if I arrived in the evening. There were illegal taxi sharks swamping and patroling the whole place.
Linda and I stayed together and found strength in unity. We stayed focused and walked straight to the prepaid taxi where there is taxi police just to be on the safe side. We had to make sure we were both very careful to not let anyone other than our chosen driver to know where we were going. Everything had to be done in need to know basis. This way no one can follow us.
Linda had the dirver drop us off a bit ffurther away from where we were going so we can walk on Janpath Road. This was partly because we over shot the sight and told the driver to stop a bit too late. Then it was also good that the driver did not know where we were going exactly. We retrieved our steps and headed into a travel center where everyone was closed and it was dark and quiet. We kept walking and in the corner way in the back, there was light and people in it. If we had not gone all the way we would have missed this shop. We arrived as the Himachal Bus was roling off at 5:30pm. One of the worker had to run and chase after the bus to stop the bus for us. We paid for our ride and ran after the bus ourselves all in quick time. We were on the bus by 5:35pm.
The bus was surprisinely quiet comfy. Alan from England sat behind us. He had just finished 10 days of silent Vipassana meditation retreat and was still adjusting to being out in the city and in communication. He was in a bit of shock when he arrivedin Dehli.
The bus stopped in other stops to pick up people. One of which was the Tibetan Refuge Center. A family of Tibetans showed up. One was a monk and he looked like a younger version of the two elder men in front of him, whom I assum was family. This group of people were all very nice and offered banana to me.
During this stop the driver informed me that I can use the toilet here. I was happy since there was no toilet on the bus. I kept asking him where exactly the toilet was and he pointed to a bush not too far away from the headlights of the bus. Well, to be in the light is to be seen by everyone. To be in the dark means walking on whatever that was left behind by others. It was a challenging task. I found a spot surrounded by bushes with the bus on one side and the road on the other. It was a good call to find a spot because the next stop was at 9pm for dinner and 2:30am for chai.
We stopped at an official bus stop for dinner. There were table and chairs at this rest stop. My dinner was partly cold and I prayed tha I would not get sick from it. Linda and I decided to move to the back of the bus for more room since the bus was not evenn half full. The driver came to check to make sure we were all on the bus before rolling off. That was nice.
As I sat and recited to get ready for bed, I pondered on this whole encounter with Linda. Was it all random? Was it all part of the greater plan? Here I was just less than 10 hours ago by myself, without a ticket to Dehli. Then I made it on to the plane but someone sat in my seat that was next to Linda. Managed to connect with Linda and converse with her anyway and somehow both agreed to go to Dharmsala on the spot. Almost missed our travel agency office and almost missed the bus in Dehli. It's like a movie script, it's like a dream, I wondered if I was the artist writing or dreaming would I have come up with this all on my own. What else is in store for both of us for the next two weeks of travel together.
In order to lay down, I had to stick my feet at the window for a fetal curl position. I also used it for anchoring the rest of my body since there were no seat belts. It made my feet very cold. I wondered if I would get frost bit from this. I prayed I wouldn't. The rest of the ride was bumpy and the bus was going fast. It is best to ride the bus in the evening and not look out the window down the steep mountain cliff. This kind of driving skill belong to the raiders of the night. I decided to trust my life in these people's hands. It's too late now, there is no turning back or getting off. Since this was my first experience, I did not think of having my sleeping bag with me or anything warm for cover. I was cold the whole night. It was one bumpy ride. I was flying all over the bus. I could not sleep because I was so cold. I could not sleep because I was could not stay in my seat. I could not sleep because I was in so much pain from all the bumps I got on the ride. It's reallly more like a roller coaster ride without a seat belt.
When the bus stopped for Chai, I wanted something hot but without milk in it. But it was all they were serving. My feet were cold like they have been in refridg. So I had chai to warm up and prayed to not get sick. The man charged me 10R for the 5R chai. I didn't argue. I was cold, I was tired, it just wasn't worth it. Linda and I decided to look for a bush, it was a good thing we did because right after we were done, another bus came and there were crowds all looking for a bush.
Linda and I stayed together and found strength in unity. We stayed focused and walked straight to the prepaid taxi where there is taxi police just to be on the safe side. We had to make sure we were both very careful to not let anyone other than our chosen driver to know where we were going. Everything had to be done in need to know basis. This way no one can follow us.
Linda had the dirver drop us off a bit ffurther away from where we were going so we can walk on Janpath Road. This was partly because we over shot the sight and told the driver to stop a bit too late. Then it was also good that the driver did not know where we were going exactly. We retrieved our steps and headed into a travel center where everyone was closed and it was dark and quiet. We kept walking and in the corner way in the back, there was light and people in it. If we had not gone all the way we would have missed this shop. We arrived as the Himachal Bus was roling off at 5:30pm. One of the worker had to run and chase after the bus to stop the bus for us. We paid for our ride and ran after the bus ourselves all in quick time. We were on the bus by 5:35pm.
The bus was surprisinely quiet comfy. Alan from England sat behind us. He had just finished 10 days of silent Vipassana meditation retreat and was still adjusting to being out in the city and in communication. He was in a bit of shock when he arrivedin Dehli.
The bus stopped in other stops to pick up people. One of which was the Tibetan Refuge Center. A family of Tibetans showed up. One was a monk and he looked like a younger version of the two elder men in front of him, whom I assum was family. This group of people were all very nice and offered banana to me.
During this stop the driver informed me that I can use the toilet here. I was happy since there was no toilet on the bus. I kept asking him where exactly the toilet was and he pointed to a bush not too far away from the headlights of the bus. Well, to be in the light is to be seen by everyone. To be in the dark means walking on whatever that was left behind by others. It was a challenging task. I found a spot surrounded by bushes with the bus on one side and the road on the other. It was a good call to find a spot because the next stop was at 9pm for dinner and 2:30am for chai.
We stopped at an official bus stop for dinner. There were table and chairs at this rest stop. My dinner was partly cold and I prayed tha I would not get sick from it. Linda and I decided to move to the back of the bus for more room since the bus was not evenn half full. The driver came to check to make sure we were all on the bus before rolling off. That was nice.
As I sat and recited to get ready for bed, I pondered on this whole encounter with Linda. Was it all random? Was it all part of the greater plan? Here I was just less than 10 hours ago by myself, without a ticket to Dehli. Then I made it on to the plane but someone sat in my seat that was next to Linda. Managed to connect with Linda and converse with her anyway and somehow both agreed to go to Dharmsala on the spot. Almost missed our travel agency office and almost missed the bus in Dehli. It's like a movie script, it's like a dream, I wondered if I was the artist writing or dreaming would I have come up with this all on my own. What else is in store for both of us for the next two weeks of travel together.
In order to lay down, I had to stick my feet at the window for a fetal curl position. I also used it for anchoring the rest of my body since there were no seat belts. It made my feet very cold. I wondered if I would get frost bit from this. I prayed I wouldn't. The rest of the ride was bumpy and the bus was going fast. It is best to ride the bus in the evening and not look out the window down the steep mountain cliff. This kind of driving skill belong to the raiders of the night. I decided to trust my life in these people's hands. It's too late now, there is no turning back or getting off. Since this was my first experience, I did not think of having my sleeping bag with me or anything warm for cover. I was cold the whole night. It was one bumpy ride. I was flying all over the bus. I could not sleep because I was so cold. I could not sleep because I was could not stay in my seat. I could not sleep because I was in so much pain from all the bumps I got on the ride. It's reallly more like a roller coaster ride without a seat belt.
When the bus stopped for Chai, I wanted something hot but without milk in it. But it was all they were serving. My feet were cold like they have been in refridg. So I had chai to warm up and prayed to not get sick. The man charged me 10R for the 5R chai. I didn't argue. I was cold, I was tired, it just wasn't worth it. Linda and I decided to look for a bush, it was a good thing we did because right after we were done, another bus came and there were crowds all looking for a bush.
Back in Chabhil
I took the a taxi back to Chabhil where the house is. I was happy and ready to go to India despite all of the missing and death stories of foreigners from Li Wei. Due to the Fog delay, I missed the option of taking the two Saturday buses to Delhi from Kathmandu, an insane ride of over 38 hours. So I think I will try for a flight out of Kathmandu into Delhi tomorrow.
Since it being a Saturday today, all the shops were closed here so I could not pick up my tailored clothes. I will wait to pick up my clothes first thing in the morning.
I took a luke warm shower and sat to wait for my hair to dry. Everyone in the house came into my room to chat with me to figure out what was going on and what my plans were. I am waiting to pick up my sarawa and then the flight. I ate three samosas, I was very hungry it was all I had all day except for tea.
I watched the "Pianist". It's just so hard to believe that was not that long ago that in our human history such suffering existed. It was such an irony, another one of life's twists. The people who killed his entire family ends up saving him in the end. The pain causer also became the pain healer. I am amazed he managed to stay sane through it all.
I think when I go home, I should really dedicate some time to learn the guqin. I really like that instrument. I feel it wakes up the different basic elements in my body.
Anuja seemed to have returned to her lovely self and so did the rest of the family. Whatever that weird bug was that was going around went away. Sometime people don't know how to duck and cover and get all caught up in the wind of habits. Anuja complained of feeling physically ill. I see that she is detoxing from all the craziness that happened. She's the stress sponge for the house.
Juno had packed and taken all her things and moved into Lotus Hotel Guest House in Boudha for 275 rupees a night including a private hot shower, toilet and towel. She really likes her mentor named Chris who did not select her to go on the India pilgrimage. She looked much more stable and happy. I am glad for her.
Since it being a Saturday today, all the shops were closed here so I could not pick up my tailored clothes. I will wait to pick up my clothes first thing in the morning.
I took a luke warm shower and sat to wait for my hair to dry. Everyone in the house came into my room to chat with me to figure out what was going on and what my plans were. I am waiting to pick up my sarawa and then the flight. I ate three samosas, I was very hungry it was all I had all day except for tea.
I watched the "Pianist". It's just so hard to believe that was not that long ago that in our human history such suffering existed. It was such an irony, another one of life's twists. The people who killed his entire family ends up saving him in the end. The pain causer also became the pain healer. I am amazed he managed to stay sane through it all.
I think when I go home, I should really dedicate some time to learn the guqin. I really like that instrument. I feel it wakes up the different basic elements in my body.
Anuja seemed to have returned to her lovely self and so did the rest of the family. Whatever that weird bug was that was going around went away. Sometime people don't know how to duck and cover and get all caught up in the wind of habits. Anuja complained of feeling physically ill. I see that she is detoxing from all the craziness that happened. She's the stress sponge for the house.
Juno had packed and taken all her things and moved into Lotus Hotel Guest House in Boudha for 275 rupees a night including a private hot shower, toilet and towel. She really likes her mentor named Chris who did not select her to go on the India pilgrimage. She looked much more stable and happy. I am glad for her.
Twelve Going Onto Seventy
I woke up early and was in resistance to getting up but I was clear I had to be out of the hotel by 6:45am for the 8am flight in the airport back to Kathmandu. That I had to take the plane and not the bus. Well, I don't have a plane ticket and I decided I would just pick one up at the airport. There was no time to meet up with Li Wei, Nassir, or Shabhil to part. In fact I would be missing my day with Shabhil. Oh well, just how it goes.
I made it to the airport in a few minutes. It's a really small town. There was fog this morning. All planes were grounded until the fog lifted a few hours later. Now I understood why I had to be here at 8am. Because I didn't have a plane ticket I had to get the first flight out. When the plane was able to take off hours later in the afternoon I would be one of the first ones on. If I was in the later flight, my flight would not take off till the evening. So it goes to follow good intuition at times.
While sitting outside by the runway with tea, I met Deepitka and her husband at the aiport. I first met her husband who walked by and spot me sitting and enjoying the view of the fog. He asked me, "Do I know you?" I smiled back, replying in my mind, not yet from this life time. I waited for more response from him before I spoke. He then asked me straight out if I was born on Dec. 8th. At this time I verbally replied and said, "Yes." He asked me if I was into numerology. I told him I'm into a whole bunch of things. He gave me information on all sorts of divination friends he had who were accurate but are in the closet about it in terms of identity. That if I was to ever visit Kolcatta, I should look him up and he would connect me. He is a lawyer who works with non-profit organizations in legality of finance and endowments, etc... He has two offices, one in Kolcatta and one in Delhi.
Deepitka works for Citi Bank. While her husband took a smoke break to digest our encounter, she shared her private thoughts with me. I learned that she is a Soto Zen Student and she is actually on her way to visit a Hindu Guru in the Mountains to heal her relationship with her husband. They have been in distress over in-law issues. I see that they have a beautiful relationsip and they love each other very much, but the strains that are put in their relationship makes it very difficult to continue to stay happy together. I have a feeling that I came to Pokhara to meet them fog and to have this chat with them. By the time we were done, the fog lifted and they walked away feeling better about each other.
My affinity with Deepitka had to do with similar experiences. At age twelve, we both became our mother's mother. We took a jump from being a child to parenthood, from twelve to Seventy. There was a strong absence of nurturing and support during both our critical developmental stages. Maybe that is why I don't feel like an adult and have trouble assimilating myself. There is a whole chunck of my life missing and until it is filled, there is always going to be a kind of strange awkwardness within.
While lining up at the gate when the fog lifted, there were many tour groups present. I think people are funny at times and all deportment goes away with people during a line or traffic on the highway. The kinds of people you think wouldn't cheat and cut in line or bump you out etc... does it all. What an ugly sight.
For the flight, I got to sit on the left side of the plane with window seat. Ah.....once again, the views of the Himalayian Peaks. This makes the entire trip to Pokhara worth it and the plane ticket too. So majestically beautiful!
I made it to the airport in a few minutes. It's a really small town. There was fog this morning. All planes were grounded until the fog lifted a few hours later. Now I understood why I had to be here at 8am. Because I didn't have a plane ticket I had to get the first flight out. When the plane was able to take off hours later in the afternoon I would be one of the first ones on. If I was in the later flight, my flight would not take off till the evening. So it goes to follow good intuition at times.
While sitting outside by the runway with tea, I met Deepitka and her husband at the aiport. I first met her husband who walked by and spot me sitting and enjoying the view of the fog. He asked me, "Do I know you?" I smiled back, replying in my mind, not yet from this life time. I waited for more response from him before I spoke. He then asked me straight out if I was born on Dec. 8th. At this time I verbally replied and said, "Yes." He asked me if I was into numerology. I told him I'm into a whole bunch of things. He gave me information on all sorts of divination friends he had who were accurate but are in the closet about it in terms of identity. That if I was to ever visit Kolcatta, I should look him up and he would connect me. He is a lawyer who works with non-profit organizations in legality of finance and endowments, etc... He has two offices, one in Kolcatta and one in Delhi.
Deepitka works for Citi Bank. While her husband took a smoke break to digest our encounter, she shared her private thoughts with me. I learned that she is a Soto Zen Student and she is actually on her way to visit a Hindu Guru in the Mountains to heal her relationship with her husband. They have been in distress over in-law issues. I see that they have a beautiful relationsip and they love each other very much, but the strains that are put in their relationship makes it very difficult to continue to stay happy together. I have a feeling that I came to Pokhara to meet them fog and to have this chat with them. By the time we were done, the fog lifted and they walked away feeling better about each other.
My affinity with Deepitka had to do with similar experiences. At age twelve, we both became our mother's mother. We took a jump from being a child to parenthood, from twelve to Seventy. There was a strong absence of nurturing and support during both our critical developmental stages. Maybe that is why I don't feel like an adult and have trouble assimilating myself. There is a whole chunck of my life missing and until it is filled, there is always going to be a kind of strange awkwardness within.
While lining up at the gate when the fog lifted, there were many tour groups present. I think people are funny at times and all deportment goes away with people during a line or traffic on the highway. The kinds of people you think wouldn't cheat and cut in line or bump you out etc... does it all. What an ugly sight.
For the flight, I got to sit on the left side of the plane with window seat. Ah.....once again, the views of the Himalayian Peaks. This makes the entire trip to Pokhara worth it and the plane ticket too. So majestically beautiful!
The Rise of Christianity and Buddhism in China
I woke up this morning around 5:15am. I checked out the weather outside from the roof and it was foggy with no visibility. So my early morning sunrise hike to the mountains to watch the Annapurna Mountain Peaks were cancelled. I could still walk but there wouldn't be anything to look at. I could have done my tai chi set on the roof but I decided to just go back to bed. I stayed in be till 10am.
After finishing my meditation, Li Wei knocked on my door to invite me to join him on his bus tour and then boat ride. He was the only left from his tour group. The rest of the group abandoned the tour. That should have clued me in on some things. We went to check out Devi Falls, a Hindu Temple, a Tibetan monastery, another Hindu temple and then a boat ride. None of the sights were worth seeing in my opinion. The boat ride is, well on a lake with low visibility.
Li Wei was pretty into talking about business ventures. Honestly, I was pretty out of it. It's really not my field of interest even though I was able to give him plenty of good contributions to his many business ideas. But just because I can do something, it doesn't necessarily reflect where my heart is.
We also chatted about the rise of Christianity and Tibetan Buddhism in China. Li Wei said the young generation of youths like the aspect of personal connection with God, forgiveness, and grace. Pureland School of Buddhism came from Taiwan back to China and appeal to currrent population due to the similarity of idea of Heaven and prayer. He said he believes in nothing and said this is the flavor of China, to not believe in anything.
Went back to Shabhil's and hung out at his shop. He has two shops. He ordered tea and was ready to order snacks too. His hopitality was good. He insisted on paying for everything. I ended up spending another few hour there. It just ends up like that here in Nepal. Time gone by, gone no where, but gone.
Towards the end of the night, Li Wei wanted to hang out some more but I was tired and we agreed to dessert. He likes western desserts. I wasn't really all that interested in desserts that had been sitting out all day for over 12 hours. He talked more about India and the more he talked the more scared I got about travels in India. I was more than ready to call it a night.
Sleeping to Dream to Dream About Sleeping
This morning in my sleep during my dreams, I dreamed I was sleeping. It was like a Twilight Zone moment. Sleeping to dream, dreaming I was sleeping.
Korean Christian Ministry in Chitwan National Park
I came across two Korean Christian Ministry volunteer workers at the shop. They told me about their group of young adults who volunteered a week in Nepal at an orphanage in Chitwan National Park. Their ministry trip included the volunteer work for 5 days, a safari at the park, then a trekking expedition from Pokhara to Annapurna to see the Himalyan Peaks. They gave me the card of contact if I wanted to go and volunteer their. Chitwan National Park charged western tourist price for the entrance fee and everything else. It's quite the safari of the east there. They invited me to gather at their hotel to meet with their group and chat some more.
I met the gourp at Blue Heaven Hotel and there were 30 young koreans gathered there. Everyone had heard about me by then. They were very delighted to meet me. I me with their group leader Joseph who is also very young and he told me about volunteering in Kolcatta, India at the Mother Theresa House. He gave me instructions on which train station to take and where to get off and what street to go to for the tourist volunteer housing. It was all very exciting to me.
The group was heading to a private dinner party set up for them by their tour group. When we arrived at the doors of the restaurant the group was nice to ask me if I had eaten. I don't think they were going to include me if I could avoid it because everything we set up and paid in a package already. I don't my vegetarian diet would fly well with their pre-arranged nonvegetarian meals. Anyways, it was nice to think of me and be considerate.
I walked around the street that is set up like a fair for this week that proceeds the new years. It's a big deal. For me it wasn't that festive or interesting. I decided to head back to my room and do artwork instead.
I met the gourp at Blue Heaven Hotel and there were 30 young koreans gathered there. Everyone had heard about me by then. They were very delighted to meet me. I me with their group leader Joseph who is also very young and he told me about volunteering in Kolcatta, India at the Mother Theresa House. He gave me instructions on which train station to take and where to get off and what street to go to for the tourist volunteer housing. It was all very exciting to me.
The group was heading to a private dinner party set up for them by their tour group. When we arrived at the doors of the restaurant the group was nice to ask me if I had eaten. I don't think they were going to include me if I could avoid it because everything we set up and paid in a package already. I don't my vegetarian diet would fly well with their pre-arranged nonvegetarian meals. Anyways, it was nice to think of me and be considerate.
I walked around the street that is set up like a fair for this week that proceeds the new years. It's a big deal. For me it wasn't that festive or interesting. I decided to head back to my room and do artwork instead.
Pashmina, Pashmina, and More Pashmina
During lunch break I met Nadine from England who has been traveling in India on her own for a few months and said I could join her on her train ride to Mumbai when we head back to Kathmandu via Darjeerling, where the tea is well known for.
Nassar helped me to search for a hotel room within 200-300 rupee range. I settled for 250 rupees a night. It's a room with two full size beds and a private shower bath in the room at Hotel Advocado. It's pretty bare in the room but it had the essentials and the price is good. I checked out Li Wei's place at Basecamp Resort. It is much nicer for sure but it was much more expensive and the hotel manager wasn't willing to negotiate for a lower price. I was willing to pay $10. a night, the local price but the manager wanted to charge me the tourist price of $30. per night. I didn't even want to fork out $30. in Phuket for a posh place with pools and jets, why would I here for less than that.
I then hung out at Nassir's friend's Pashmina Shop for 2 hours. I learned a lot about quality of pashmina. I felt after two hours I was well trained and qualified for the business. I learned that the machine manufactured ones were all from China. There are differences between 100% wool and mixed cotton and synthetic ratios. The machine sown ones have bigger loops than hand hand ones. Then there was the test on how the real wool burned, no fumes while the other ones had plastic smoky fumes.
Pashmina comes from mountain goats who live fourteen thousand feet above sea level. I saw photos of goats in a chain and I didn't want to buy any pashmina from that point on. Then I also learned the process to create wearable and desirable pashmina some how included the process of boiling the pashmina with an egg. The more I learn, the more I feel this is really not made for vegans to wear. It is not cruelty friendly.
I really like the needle work and artistry of the designs and really wanted to bring some home. He shop keeper insisting that he would give me a good exchange ratio of 71 rupees to a US dollar. While hanging out at the shop I met lots of tourists. I think I can get a part time job here translating and selling the products here. I also like some of the stone jewelry here. The price is also reasonable. Most people do not come here to buy jewelry here, it's more about Pashmina so the price for the gems are good and also not top rate quality.
Nassar helped me to search for a hotel room within 200-300 rupee range. I settled for 250 rupees a night. It's a room with two full size beds and a private shower bath in the room at Hotel Advocado. It's pretty bare in the room but it had the essentials and the price is good. I checked out Li Wei's place at Basecamp Resort. It is much nicer for sure but it was much more expensive and the hotel manager wasn't willing to negotiate for a lower price. I was willing to pay $10. a night, the local price but the manager wanted to charge me the tourist price of $30. per night. I didn't even want to fork out $30. in Phuket for a posh place with pools and jets, why would I here for less than that.
I then hung out at Nassir's friend's Pashmina Shop for 2 hours. I learned a lot about quality of pashmina. I felt after two hours I was well trained and qualified for the business. I learned that the machine manufactured ones were all from China. There are differences between 100% wool and mixed cotton and synthetic ratios. The machine sown ones have bigger loops than hand hand ones. Then there was the test on how the real wool burned, no fumes while the other ones had plastic smoky fumes.
Pashmina comes from mountain goats who live fourteen thousand feet above sea level. I saw photos of goats in a chain and I didn't want to buy any pashmina from that point on. Then I also learned the process to create wearable and desirable pashmina some how included the process of boiling the pashmina with an egg. The more I learn, the more I feel this is really not made for vegans to wear. It is not cruelty friendly.
I really like the needle work and artistry of the designs and really wanted to bring some home. He shop keeper insisting that he would give me a good exchange ratio of 71 rupees to a US dollar. While hanging out at the shop I met lots of tourists. I think I can get a part time job here translating and selling the products here. I also like some of the stone jewelry here. The price is also reasonable. Most people do not come here to buy jewelry here, it's more about Pashmina so the price for the gems are good and also not top rate quality.
Single Females Traveling in Foreign Lands
Li Wei also told me of another story as if the last one wasn't scary enough. He said a Taiwanese lady who was found dead by a crocodile place. It is unkown if the crocodiles got her or she was fed to the crocodiles.
Another one, as if the other two wasn't scary enough. A lady traveling by herself got off the wrong part of the town on the bus. She walked into a restricted area. She was told to stop but she didn't. It was possible she didn't understand the language and so she did not know she was asked to stop and she was shot dead on the spot.
I don't have the stomach for such stories. I can't even watch scary movies. I'm a whimp when it comes down to things like this. I don't even watch the news except to catch the weather. I don't even read the news except to look at pictures in the arts and entertainment section.
Another one, as if the other two wasn't scary enough. A lady traveling by herself got off the wrong part of the town on the bus. She walked into a restricted area. She was told to stop but she didn't. It was possible she didn't understand the language and so she did not know she was asked to stop and she was shot dead on the spot.
I don't have the stomach for such stories. I can't even watch scary movies. I'm a whimp when it comes down to things like this. I don't even watch the news except to catch the weather. I don't even read the news except to look at pictures in the arts and entertainment section.
Did He or Didn't He?
With plenty of time on the bus to work on, Li Wei told me many stories from India. He said at least one foreigner is discovered in mysterious death or missing in India each week. A japanese 21 year old man who was a foreing exchange student was missing. He went on a trip with a tour group. People from the tour group saw him check out at the hotel during check out time but he never showed up at the meeting spot after that. And when people went to track him down, his hotel room door was found open with his things laid out. The seach went on for 2 months. The hotel insisted that he didn't check out.
When ever I hear stories like this, I count my blessings and all those who have been watching over me. Anything can go wrong traveling by myself, much the less traveling in an official tour group staying at a legitimate hotel.
When ever I hear stories like this, I count my blessings and all those who have been watching over me. Anything can go wrong traveling by myself, much the less traveling in an official tour group staying at a legitimate hotel.
Back Row Bus Seat Karma Again
Anar made me tea this morning and walked me out to the street to flag down a cab. It's amazing how busy the streets are this early in the morning. It wasn't easy getting a cab. There was also a lot of traffic. The cab driver drove fast and got me to exactly where I needed to go to for the bus.
It took me awhile to figure out which bus was mine, I kept walking back and forth. And when I did, the bus driver told me to sit in the back row on the right by the window. I guess this bus seat karma didn't end in China. I keep getting the same seat even though this ticket in my hand did not have seat numbers assigned to it. I really didn't want to sit in that seat again. I attempted to switch seats on my own and demanded the bus driver to show me the seat number and the seating chart.
To my left was Nassar a Kashimri business man who is taking shipments of shaws etc.. to Pokhara, a tourist destination. He is a distributor. To the left of Nassar is Li Wei from Shanghai who is doing graduate work in Agra, India and studying Hindi. He is a software engineer, IT web designer. He had tips on where to stay for cheap in Agra in case I wanted to visit the Taj Mahal. He invited me to visit his friends in Mumbai. So I guess my seat karma was relavant to these two people who I was suppose to meet and hang out with otherwise our paths would have crossed and we would have missed each other if I had gotten my way with a different seat.
During the first hour the bus went all over the place in attempt to pick up more passangers to fill up all the empty seats. It was going very slow at different stoppin points while the 2nd driver hung out the door to call out for passangers. The entire bus was full by 8am. The bus stopped for 2 breaks for breakfast and lunch. Toilet break stops are only when called for and it's just a pull over to the side of the road. There really isn't any toilets. It's really inconvenient for women in my case but I guess women don't really travel either. I am a minority here on buses.
It took me awhile to figure out which bus was mine, I kept walking back and forth. And when I did, the bus driver told me to sit in the back row on the right by the window. I guess this bus seat karma didn't end in China. I keep getting the same seat even though this ticket in my hand did not have seat numbers assigned to it. I really didn't want to sit in that seat again. I attempted to switch seats on my own and demanded the bus driver to show me the seat number and the seating chart.
To my left was Nassar a Kashimri business man who is taking shipments of shaws etc.. to Pokhara, a tourist destination. He is a distributor. To the left of Nassar is Li Wei from Shanghai who is doing graduate work in Agra, India and studying Hindi. He is a software engineer, IT web designer. He had tips on where to stay for cheap in Agra in case I wanted to visit the Taj Mahal. He invited me to visit his friends in Mumbai. So I guess my seat karma was relavant to these two people who I was suppose to meet and hang out with otherwise our paths would have crossed and we would have missed each other if I had gotten my way with a different seat.
During the first hour the bus went all over the place in attempt to pick up more passangers to fill up all the empty seats. It was going very slow at different stoppin points while the 2nd driver hung out the door to call out for passangers. The entire bus was full by 8am. The bus stopped for 2 breaks for breakfast and lunch. Toilet break stops are only when called for and it's just a pull over to the side of the road. There really isn't any toilets. It's really inconvenient for women in my case but I guess women don't really travel either. I am a minority here on buses.
Day Time Soap
Last night I found a way to keep my kidneys warm. I layered up and rolled up my sarongs to create extra padding between my back and the cold floor. It worked well, I slept well and stayed warm.
I tell the dirty, malnurished, sick looking sad dogs in the yard, "I'm just passing through, I'm just passing through." I was not interested in petting them or playing with them, but I do sympathize them.
Anar took me to brunch at an Indian restaurant. I really like the food we had. Some how she needed someone to talk to and she poured her heart out and cried at the restaurant. Anar comes from and upper caste. She is educated and earned her own house. During expansion of her house Peace Corp pulled out of Nepal due to political unrest. She expressed the trauma of it all because no one would help her including her family. A friend helped her figure out how to finish the construction of her house. Anar said none of the workers in the construction industry wanted to work with her because she was female and this male friend of a lower caste taught her how to not get cheated and what she needed to do to complete her house. They were very much in love with each other. Her father, along with her sister who is Anuja's mom, and Suraj all disapproved of this relationship. They did not want the house to leave the family and go to the lower caste man. They conspired together and threatened to send the police after the man and put him in jail for loving someone higher than his caste. I guess in Nepal you can get imprisoned for it. Out of grief, Anar attempted suicide. Anuja found her and saved her. She was hopitalized for 19 days. She did not speak to Suraj for a year and they all continued to live with her till this day. Anar said to me that she would rather the building go to a charity organization than to pass it on to her relatives. She insists that Suraj is sent to Kathmandu from her father as a spy. His mother who is wife of three only visits from time to time.
Well, that was a lot of "Days of Our Lives" day time soap drama for me over lunch. I guess this is also why everyone here loves "Titanic".
When I returned to the house I packed for my trip to Pokhara and took a double shower. I can't seem to get clean enough. When I eat, I can't seem to get full. I am hungry all the time. It is such a weird sensation.
After dinner it was more DVDs. I was not interested and really wanted to get some rest because I would have to get up at 5am to catch my bus for Pokhara.
I tell the dirty, malnurished, sick looking sad dogs in the yard, "I'm just passing through, I'm just passing through." I was not interested in petting them or playing with them, but I do sympathize them.
Anar took me to brunch at an Indian restaurant. I really like the food we had. Some how she needed someone to talk to and she poured her heart out and cried at the restaurant. Anar comes from and upper caste. She is educated and earned her own house. During expansion of her house Peace Corp pulled out of Nepal due to political unrest. She expressed the trauma of it all because no one would help her including her family. A friend helped her figure out how to finish the construction of her house. Anar said none of the workers in the construction industry wanted to work with her because she was female and this male friend of a lower caste taught her how to not get cheated and what she needed to do to complete her house. They were very much in love with each other. Her father, along with her sister who is Anuja's mom, and Suraj all disapproved of this relationship. They did not want the house to leave the family and go to the lower caste man. They conspired together and threatened to send the police after the man and put him in jail for loving someone higher than his caste. I guess in Nepal you can get imprisoned for it. Out of grief, Anar attempted suicide. Anuja found her and saved her. She was hopitalized for 19 days. She did not speak to Suraj for a year and they all continued to live with her till this day. Anar said to me that she would rather the building go to a charity organization than to pass it on to her relatives. She insists that Suraj is sent to Kathmandu from her father as a spy. His mother who is wife of three only visits from time to time.
Well, that was a lot of "Days of Our Lives" day time soap drama for me over lunch. I guess this is also why everyone here loves "Titanic".
When I returned to the house I packed for my trip to Pokhara and took a double shower. I can't seem to get clean enough. When I eat, I can't seem to get full. I am hungry all the time. It is such a weird sensation.
After dinner it was more DVDs. I was not interested and really wanted to get some rest because I would have to get up at 5am to catch my bus for Pokhara.
Ex-Communicated
Juno wanted to go to a Tibetan Monastery outside of town, Souymbu. I sat quietly and recited all the way on the bus. i felt something was going and I didn't want to be pulled by them. There were many steps to climb before reaching to the gates of the monastery. I was climbing with them at their pace until Anuja came across her friends and she only introduced Juno and left me out and gave me the silent treatment. In fact they both did. It was weird. So I decided to walk in my own pace which was quicker than both of them. I have been hiking the mountains of China 8 to 10 hours a day. I have built strength. I wanted to separate from whatever was going on with them because I don't want to become that. I was pretty upset at this.
Juno was not in shape to do this and she trailed far behind. At one point, someone out of no where demanded to collect money from her because she was a tourist. I passed as Nepalese and I smiled back and kept silent when I passed by the same extortion person. This person was just extorting money from every tourist. He was not an official collector. There was no fee actually but none of the tourist knew. They just handed money over when asked. Juno didn't pay she argued back.
Well the very weird the ex-communication continued through out the day. Finally her friends introduced themselves to me at the end of the day. We all went out for Pizza and some how Juno got me to split the bill with her. It was her idea, it was her thank you to Anjua. It ended up being expensive. I have no idea why it was like this and why she was demanding this from me. She's showing herself as a gracious giver and yet behind closed doors she was fighting pennies with me. It's just odd. I just went along with it because I didnt' want to fight and catch her disease. My body ached from all of this and it took me awhile to clear all of this out of my system.
We went to the internet cafe together. I was put off by the events of the day and really wanted time alone. Juno left quite early. I spent 2 hours and it costed me 50 cents.
Just Pennies,..... Really!
I really like having tea brought to my bed before I even get out in the morning. I like to drink hot water or tea when I get up in the morning. Then Juno and I had a discussion in the room. She was agitated and had issues on money. She wanted to know if I would pay for my stay there. I told her I was and I knew she wasn't. I was basically paying for the both of us. Why was that? I don't know but her distress was over money. I reminded her that I have been paying every time we share cost at things together. And really in Nepal, it comes down to US pennies. I didn't remind her that she didn't not have the proper understanding of what equal half is. That my half has been greater than her not so equal half. It was an excuse to be afflicted, fight, unhappy, and whatever else. Well, not a chance on my part. No way! It's not worth it. I like being happy and having fun to much to spoil it for myself or let others do it.
Center Stage
I dreamed this morning that I went to visit many people and hung out with them. It was fun. I even did a dance performance. My partner wanted to shove us in a corner but I was the show case peice and show case peices are not for the corner but center. I so split from him and did ended up doing solo in the center where the spot light was properly light for the show case performer, me. It was better this way anyways. He was messing up the performance all together.
Bollywood
When I returned to the house, I was informed by Juno that Anuja was upset that I left the heater on all night. Actually if I had done so I wouldn't be cold but I was so I didn't. Juno blamed me and I asked her to translate and clarify. Somehow that did not carry across and Anuja looked at me like I was a criminal. No one seemed to care for the truth. It has only been four days and things are falling apart here. It was too good to be true. The politeness is evaporating and the competitiveness is showing up and destructiveness is surfacing. I don't want to be apart of this drama. Ah...... professional lodging would be better. I would be warmer and eat whatever I want, when I want, how I want, etc... Oh yes, access to hot water.
After dinner we watched "Himalya" but there was DVD problems so we watched Dhoom II. It's a Bollywood film in Hindi. It was cheezy for me. I wasn't all that interested in it. Glad I was able to get to bed early. It was a rough and very weird day for me.
After dinner we watched "Himalya" but there was DVD problems so we watched Dhoom II. It's a Bollywood film in Hindi. It was cheezy for me. I wasn't all that interested in it. Glad I was able to get to bed early. It was a rough and very weird day for me.
Christmas in Nepal
Merry Christmas.
My back was cold last night and I shivered the whole night. It made me very tired this morning. I did not feel rested. I stayed in bed till 9am. Anar treated us to butter sugar biscuits that Juno brought from the US and tea. We watched the film "The Caravan".
Juno, Anuja and I left for Christmas shopping at 10:20am. Juno has interest in a male friend here and we went shopping. She also got bangles for his parents who are visiting him in Nepal. We went to check out fabrics to see what things we could get custom tailored. I finally got samosas and pokras. It was delicious samosas. This one sells the best samosas. The crust is perfectly spiced and so was the stuffing. I have decided that I am going to have samosas every day from this particular stand. They are cheap too.
I came back to Dalba at the house at 12pm I knew Anar would be waiting to eat together. I went for a hot shower at 1:30pm. The water is solar powered here so there is only hot water during high noon. I was so happy to wash in hot water. Past few days I have been washing in cold, cold, coooooooooooooold water because I didn't know about how the system worked. I gave myself a double shower in attempt to clean myself out of all the pollution etc...
I watched Anuja cook and she used tumeric, mehti, cumin powder, salt for all her dishes every meal. I did laundry and followed everyone in hang drying. I just don't see how it will get clean blowing in the smogy wind. I'm like,... I just washed this and by the time it dries, it will be all dirty again before I wear it.
In the afternoon I went shopping for tailers to make a few sets of sarawas. These are are modern saris. I actually find it more conservative than classical saris, more skin is covered. But somehow modern to some people means bad so they don't agree with this attire. Weird.
I bought color pencils and white spiral pad. I miss doing art. I can't believe I went so long without doing art other than photography. Then Juno and I met up late afternoon to get together to make Christmas dinner for everyone. Everyone was excited about it. I made basil eggplant and fried king oyster mushroom. Since people here are used to using their hands to eat, and my cooking was made to be eaten with utensil, they really had a hard time picking up the food. The normal mashing, slushing, and running the food all over the plate didn't work. The hit was the fried mushrooms. They all commmented on how it doesnt' taste vegetarian, it's more like fried chicken to them.
Since it was a holiday, Anar had the BBQ grill used for our bon fire to keep us warm.
Old Wood Carvings
I was invited by Anar to go with her on her errands but I was also invited by Suraj and Anuja to Durba Ma, New Road, and Themel. I wanted to go into town and try to venture on my own so I ended up choosing to team up with the siblings. I enjoy their company.
We went to an area where there were lots of tourist agencies. Anuja has an uncle who is a manager at Royal Nepal Airlines and she was hoping to get a job at the agency. I went to check out prices and options for going to India incase I decide to go. I was also reconmended to go to Pokara to check out the Annanpurna view of the Himalayian Mountain Ridges.
Afterwards we went to Themel to do the tourist shopping. I was given the tourist price on everything and I didn't buy anything. We walked by the Royal Palace and I didn't think much of it. I really came to Nepal in a good time. The civil unrest all over the county had been going on for years with the Maos until mid November. I checked out where I could of end up staying if I had not been taken in by Juno's host family.
New Road area had lots of old buildings with beautiful wood carvings. This area is where the locals go for tailering and vegetable market. I saw beautiful King Oyster mushrooms and all sorts of other mushrooms that I liked. I miss my own cooking. I love to work with small farm grown produce. They are usually beautiful and delicious. It's just so much better than Safeway and even Berkeley Bowl. It was just like when I was in Italy and there were people on the street with a basket selling only amazinly beautiful fresh giant size Procinis for cheap. And Italian tomatos are delicious and sweet, it's why pasta tasts better in Italy with just plain tomato sauce.
Boudha
I still haven't figured out the bus system here. I actually feel better about venturing out on my own even though I have yet to. Going to Pokhara will be a learning experience. But here anyone who is a bit educated are all trilingual in English and Nepalese and Hindi. The school are bilingual with English and Nepalese.
Suraj took me to Bouda while Anuja went home to prepare dinner. We walked around the historical stupa and watched the sunset from the top of the stupa. There were Tibetan monks there, I actually don't know what to make of them.
Juno had returned when we arrived back at the house. She was a bit disturbed and uncomfortable like she has yet to fart or exhale. She wanted to know how long I was staying. I sensed competitiveness from her. It was interesting to watch. I just stepped back and gave her lots of space because I knew she was a highly capable person who is a sophmore at Sara Lawrence University who was more inexperienced with life. I also knew that she has yet to recover from not being selected to go with her Dharma teacher on the Indian Pilgrimage.
Gotta Look Good
I find it interesting here that regardless if you clean the toilets, haul trash, sell roasted legumes, or a royalty, all the women are dressed in amazingly beautiful clean, colorful saris full of golden jewlries.
It's Everywhere
This kind of push cart stall is everywhere. Roasted peas, garbanzo beans, etc... all dusted in salt. Then there is an option of different spices you can toss in there for condiment. It would be our equivalent of ketchup, mustard, mayo, ranch etc... Everywhere you go in Kathmandu, this kind of snack stall is available and everyone loves it. It's like chips for us or french fries.
Newari Square
The Newari Square is full of old buildings and the buildings are full of ornate wood carving. I really enjoy such artistry. But the streets are dirty with animal droppings and other pollutions, everything is dusty grey.
Momos
I was introduced to their uncle who owns a restaurant in Newari Square. We had tea and momos. Momos are steamed dumplings stuffed with vegetables spiced in Nepalese spice. In Tibet they were spiced with Tibetan spice. It was good and was served with a red spicy sauce. It was cheap and delicious. I was hungry and could have eaten another serving all on my own but I didn't want to trouble them because we were there on family connections. I treated them the meal and I bought Anuja ice cream. I am learning that it is a big deal for Anuja to get pop corn, roasted peanuts, and ice cream on a cone.
Living Goddess of the Shakya Clan
They took me to visit an old building with old wooden carvings and stone carving for decore. This place had an inner quad and the building was two stories. I was told there was a living goddess inside. She is only out in public during holiday celebration. She was born in India and moved or shipped or transported to Nepal like when she was three. She is still a child now. She has one adult attendent. All day long she stays within the confinds of these walls. She's not allowed to even peak out the windows. I felt sorry for her. They couldn't explain to me why she was crowned the living goddess other than this is what was said. Her family placed her here to be worshiped by everyone. She is from the Shakya clan of India. I bet she would enjoy dolls, games, and just friends. Her picture is everywhere in Kathmandu. The siblings got me a post card of her, but really, I don't know what to do with it. They also got me a Nepalese flag and I don't know what to do with it either.
No Luck Today
Paros showed me the good luck hole and how to take your chances at good luck. It is a crack in a wall on the pathway. The rules are, stand on the opposite end, put your palms together pointing to the wall and walk towards the hole while your eyes are closed. If your hands can hit the hole then you have been blessed with good luck. Paros missed the first time, tried again and missed the second time, tried again and missed the third time and so on. He even paced his foot steps backward from the hole to the start point on the other side. I tried and missed. We had so much fun with it that anyone passing by tried it after Paros instructed them. No one got it. No one was blessed with Good Luck for the day.
Cursed By A Religious Man
On the way to the deer park nearby the Hindu temple we passed by religious men who were sitting on the ground on pathways. They looked like they stepped out of past, like a 5,000 year ago past in India. One of them had dirt all over him. One of them had hair to the ground. Their faces were all painted. They all called out to us to tell us that they each wanted to tell us something. They also reached their hand out and demanded money. As Paros sped us his foot steps and politely increased the distance to avoid contact, so did I. One of them cursed us as we sped passed him. It was scary. I held my breath and crossed my fingers. I was too busy with trying to get away that I didn't have time or the courage to pull out my camera to take photos of each and every one of them. I feared for more cursing. I think such activities gives religion a bad name.
Hindu Temple
The main temple was going to charge me 250 rupees to enter the gate of the temple from the back of the temple. I was not sure what the fee was for. Was it because I was not a Hindu or a foreign traveler? And I also wasn't sure if the fee would allow me to fully access the temple inside or would it just let me get into the gate because I was a foreign tourist or because I was not a Hindu? And who was this random person who was wanting to collect money from me in the place of the temple? Was this money actually going into the temple or was this just a regular local vendor who is collecting money from me because I was a tourist? In the midst of all this confusion I decided to not enter the temple. In all honesty, I'm not into Hindu temple art. Everything was dark also. So Paros showed me the temple from as many directions as possible to view it from the outside.
Bit By Fish?
Paros introduced different alters and gods who he bowed to and then put powder on his forehead. At a nearby smaller temple, he showed me a pool of water where there was a fish swimming inside. He said that if you have a bad thought it would bit you.
Morning Tea Delivery
It was cold sleeping on the floor but it was nice staying in a house. I have only been sleeping in transient places for the past three months so this was a nice change. Juno got up early to get ready for her day trip which is 45 minutes out of town to do a breakfast meeting with an American Ningma Nun who is in her 50's. This friend nun is going to do a pilgrimage to India and Juno is meeting to find out why she was not selected to be a part of the tour group this time. Juno has been feeling shocked and disturbed by this and is also depressed over it. I on the other hand wanted to get more rest but I was also very awake after the alarm went off and all her packing. Still I stayed in bed for another hour.
Anar came and knocked on my door to wake me up at 7:30am, for what I didn't know. I decided to stay in the room to meditate and get more rest. Then Anuja knocked on my door to deliver hot tea to me at 8am. During tea in my room I chatted with Paros and Anar for half an hour. Paros was happy to be my tour guide for the morning.
Paros took me to a nearby old Hindu temple. The streets were dirty and the air was smoky. The fried pastries sold were fried in dark hot oil pots. The streets smelled of an assortment of human waste, animal waste, trash, to floral fragrances and spices. I came across a street full of vendors selling items for offerings from colorful flowers to powders, etc... There were sick cows on the road and the dogs weren't looking much better either. This was a crowded part of the town.
Avoided Getting Vaporized and Became Invisible
This morning I dreamed of a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and people were being vaporized by something. It was wind-like, not easy to detect. I recited "Na Mo Amitabha Buddha" and hung onto four people next to me who didn't know how to recite or may be they were in so much distress they forgot to. I believed by the light from the virtue of Amitabha Buddha that we would be okay. Unfortunately I didn't have the capacity or time to extend a hand to everyone. Only we didn't get vaporized and we were the only ones left. Then all the people who were just vaporized and vanished into thin air came back from the dead. But they only returned in form. It was not them, they were not the same. It was empty, they were empty and hallow inside. This new hallow them, whatever they are now, run the monastery. I call it identity theft.
Then we fled the scene after this and jumped into a mini van and took off. During a bridge crossing, the driver drove off the bridge into a river. It took us into another world and we were heading into an underground compound. This was not what we asked for and I knew we were in trouble. This driver was an impostor. I jumped out as soon as I could and the gates of these compound were closing in. I ran fast to the other side to avoid getting trapped in. Everyone else with me also followed and got out. I taught them to recite "Na Mo Amitabha Buddha" but they could not get it. Then I decided to teach them "Na Mo Guan Yin Bodhisattva" This they got. I recited it three times and jumped in place up and down and went invisible. They thought I vanished to somewhere else. Going invisible was going to make it easier to get back onto the bridge so that we can get to where we needed to to be safe. It would buy us more time and allow us to go without being detected. The group didn't catch the last part on the jumping in place and they were caught by the underground men and were taken back to the compound.
Tired
Anuja decided to take me out to a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery up on a hill called Naguwkot. There are lots of young monks less than 13 teen years old. They were playing with bottle caps and sacks. In this monastery they practice a vegetarian diet along with no onions, garlic, diary and eggs. I walked around the compound with her. We met up with her friends but there was no chemistry in the gathering and it was short lived. I bought Anuja tea and she treated me to popcorn and peanuts. It was a treat for her to have popcorn and peanuts. I also treated her freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. I was thirsty and I ran out of bottled water. I refuse to drink tap here.
The streets here are full of people and it's polluted. There are cars, people, and vendors everywhere you turn. I was glad I had a guide. I think I am a bit tired and it sure felt nice to not have to fend for myself right now. I just watched Anuja do everything in guiding me and I followed. I told myself that I would not be able to figure everything out on my own right now. It was all a bit overwhelming.
Buses passed by cramped with people. I stuck out as a foreigner even though people told me I could pass as a Nepalese. Well, in Tibet I looked Tibetan to Tibetans. In Thailand I looked Thai to the Thais. In China I looked Native Chinese to the locals. Well, and in India, ... I doubt it, shall have to see. Maybe I wrap a scarf around me really well.
Bought oranges on the way back to eat and to share. I also wanted to thank Paros for taking me around in the morning so I bought him his favorite, instant noodles and chips.
When I returned to my room I just sat in meditation. But it short, interrupted by the afternoon snack of curried fried rice. I took the snack and ate with Anar in the office. I then emailed my family on Anar's dial up internet service. It sure has been awhile since I came across dial up. Even in China, dial up is unheard of. It gets dark here at 4:33pm. I asked Anar when people are married here. She said 20-23 years old. Anar is single who majored in commerce and wants to do education and would like to get her masters degree. She has never had a boyfriend. She said it is bad reputation on a female to have had a boyfriend. Her parents had arranged marriage. Her father has three wives and they belong to the noble caste, considered high caste.
Anuja attempted to show me how to make Nepalese food. It was simple but there were language issues on naming the spice in English. She also taught me hoe to make Rotti. It was simple, add water to the flour. How much? There were no measurements. It's based on touch. It was this I got training on to feel for the moisture level and tension of the dough. Rotti is fried and chipatti is not but the dough is the same. I am still getting used to watching people slush their food around the plate with their fingers. I can't seem to eat and watch the same time.
Our conversations around the meal ended up being why I was still single. People wanted to know what was wrong with me and wondered who is going to love me when I grow old. I replied,"everybody! why not?!" I told stories of my parent's dating experiences and they told me about theirs. We had fun. I also asked about people's astrology here in Nepal and I learned I stumbled on a taboo topic in this house. It killed the conversations. Everything stopped for the night then and there.
This is an interesting house I am in with different family members living here, all blood but it isn't all chummy here. But people remain polite, and respectful. I am here just adjusting, just acclimating, just resting. I am pretty tired for all the bus, train, bus, train, plane ride out of Ko Phi Phi to Phuket to Laos back to Bangkok to Kathmandu. I am pretty much still working up the courage to go to India, I won't worry about it right now.
Sad To Part
Paros' third grade friend showed up to hang out. He was sad because his family is moving north towards the Tibetan friendship border for better work. He did not want to part with his friend or his life here in Kathmandu.
Creative Hands
For entertainment, Paros played the flute for me. Then everyone else wanted to share their talents to me too. Anuja showed me how to make friendship bracelet and cross stitching. She is very creative with her hands. Anar took out her yarn and knitted. It was fun to watch what people could create with their hands in joy.
Burning Red Bottoms
We passed by the Deer Park and it had monkeys all over the trees. Yup, I was afraid of the monkeys and kept my distance and was ready to cowardly hide behind little ten year old Paros for protection if need be. All the monkeys were covered in dust. Lost of them had burning red bottoms. Most of them looked ill. They didn't look that much better than the cows or dogs on the street.
We returned to the house for brunch. It may be a practice of the house or in Nepal to take two official meals one at 10:30am then the other in the evening with a snack late in the afternoon. I was served a Nepalese Thali, it is served on a tray with rice, dal, and vegetables. Today it was curry potatos, bitter greens, dal and rice. I was grateful that they took into consideration of my diet being vegetarian and without onions and garlic. We took our meal on the roof top where the kitchen was and sun bathed afterwards. I enjoyed the warm sun. I was cold last night.
Adopted
When I entered the plane I learned the reason for the delay. There was an elder Chinese Grandpa who was on stretchers and had an IV attached etc.. The airline had to reconfigure 6 to 8 seats after the passengers got off to accommodate for the situation. I wasn't upset over the delay. The man had super enlarged lower lip. It was the size of a quarter cut orange. He did not look well. A nurse accompanied the patient on the flight.
The airline stewards on Royal Nepal were all physically built, thin, fit, and strong. They were definitely not like Thai Air who were more like wall flowers.
I had a window seat and I caught a beautiful view of the Himalayian Mountain Ridges from the air during sunset. Wow that was magnificent! This view made the whole trip into Nepal totally worth it. If I saw nothing else in Nepal it was fine. I think I would fly into Nepal and sit by the window in the right side of the plane in the future. This was worth the airplane ticket. Like Tibet, the train ride in was worth the train ticket I paid for.
I got off the plane, got onto a shuttle to get to inside of the airport. On the way to customs I met Julie in the tunnel and chatted with her while we walked side by side. I asked her where she was staying and if she had any recommendations. She told me she was 19 years old and is an exchange student from US doing a field study in Kathmandu for 4 months. She decided to take me home with her to her host family and have them adopt me too. I thought to myself, this was why I had to get on this plane at this time to meet her. How interesting.
I went through immigration and paid $30 for the VISA photos and was sure glad I had US dollar on me because this airport did not have an ATM. I actually had photos taken for VISA before I left for the trip but I forgot to bring them.
On the way out the airport we were swamped with people who wanted our business. It was good that Juno spoke Nepalese and negotiated a metered taxi for 120 rupees. When we got off the driver demanded another 20 rupees. Juno argued with the driver and then finally handed him 15 extra rupees, of which he didn't take. I was very glad that she knew where she was going and what she was doing in the dark.
While waiting for her host family to return so we can get into the house, Julia also called Juno in Nepalese took me to the famous old Stupa down town also known by the locals as Buddha. At night the stars were out. The area was full of people some were circling the stupa. There were monks in masks to filter out pollution. This little town circle is a little Tibet. It is more Tibet than Tibet. There were people doing puja. The stupa is surrounded or encircled by restaurants and shops. A man asked if we wanted housing for 400 rupees per night. It was a lot in my opinion. We stopped at a bakery to pick up vegan cakes and pastries as hello gifts to the host family. I spent 160 rupees on a box of goodies. I didn't want to go empty handed.
We had to take a taxi to the house because there were public transportation strikes that evening. She negotiated 70 rupees for the ride.
We walked in the dark with our camping head lamps on. There are two friendly dogs at the house both who do not get enough attention and exercise. The house is white with three stories and a terrace. I was greeted by 2 women. The owner of the house does not have children, her name is Anar, meaning pomegranate. The visiting sister has three children a daughter Anuja who is 23 and two sons, Paros who is 12 and Suraj who is 21. They all took interest in me and we chatted. They made vegetarian instant noodles for us. Here they are called 'chow, chow'. Anuja crushed all the noodles so they were no longer in strands. It was mush instead.
Juno is also Buddhist vegetarian who is studying the Ningma school. She also wants to do an Indian trip. We are contemplating a trip to India together. But she is also a bit home sick and is thinking of not doing to India at all this time.
I learned the house schedule, people go to bed at 9pm and get up at 6:30am. That tea is brought to me at 8:30am in my room and all three meals are cooked and served to me. Anuja works in the house in trade for her family being able to stay here. Anar is not married, worked with Peace Corp in teaching foreigners Nepalese in this building until political unrest that resulted in Peace Corp pulling all projects and volunteers out of Nepal. She worked with Peace Corp for 16 years. She is from the scholar family line which means she is just one step below the highest in society which is the clergy. In spending her time wisely during the political unrest she went back to school.
If I Only Had...
When I got off the train I asked about how to get to the airport. There were plenty of service people with information to offer and happy to help. It was nice. I took a train to Haratake and then a bus into the airport. The airport was 7 kil away. I was reminded that I could take the local bus but the traffic would be too long and I was advised to take the train.
On the train, a Thai lady was on her way to the Hospital at Haratake who had me follow her. She personally took me on as someone to take care of. This whole entire trip, I have come across more people who where effortless in showing kindness and generosity of hospitality. Every time someone shows me kindness, I would feel remorse, shame, and total regret for any other time I had been impatient to others.
In Haratake was a hospital and an art academy. So the train cart was full of art students and all their art gear. I think there is something very beautiful and simple about student life that I really enjoy.
Made it to the airport 9amish. I walked around to check out flights, airlines, and possible destinations. I was directed to a travel agent who would coordinate my ticket. She told me Indian Air and Royal Nepal are all full for the rest of the year and I would need to fly Thai Air. This is like the engine search in Thailand when you go on the net where all other airlines pretty much don't work but only Thai Air. Well, Thai Air is so much more expensive and she was willing to drop ten dollars only. but really I didn't trust her. I heard that most people even Indians don't want to fly Air India so I was skeptical on either one of those airlines being sold out.
So being very tired from the train ride, I decided to just toss a coin on where I should go and what airline I should take. I went to the restroom to have a private enclosed space to think. I decided to walk some more and wait at the airline counter to get the scoop on actual factual status of seats availability. It was weird
I came across an elder Indian Sikh man named Kumar who is teaching in a business school in Bangkok. Kumar's wife and children will be moving in with him from India. He assured me of seats being available and he could not imagine the flight being sold out. He also tipped me on what to do when traveling in India. I am not to travel at night. If I land in the evening at Delhi I should sleep at the airport and wait till the morning and prepare to face the sharks and snakes. He also gave me a name to the Youth hostel in Delhi. I told him I'll be in India for a month and he was like "Why?" like why would you want to do that for? He also wanted to know why I wasn't married yet. Kumar reminded me that the Buddha was married, had a family and then focused on a spiritual life. I responded by saying that I probably couldn't travel and wonder about for months at a time without a return date like what I am doing now.
Kumar sat next to me until I was squared away with a ticket to somewhere and it ended up being Kathmandu, Nepal. It was the next available flight out of Bangkok and there were seats for me to purchase at a reasonable rate. During one of our conversations, I told Kumar about traveling in China, etc... then he mentioned he wold like to visit China and responded by saying people in general don't speak English. Then he slipped into, "well, if I only had a Chinese girlfriend who spoke both English and Chinese that would be convenient." I was shocked and disappointed by that line of proposition. I decided to just let it slip by as if I didn't hear that.
My ticket to Kathmandu via Royal Nepal was 10,000 BHT. I was very excited about going to Nepal. I had no information what so ever about Nepal. I will be landing in the evening and I have no idea where I would stay and where I would go etc...I was very excited about the unknown and how I would deal with the unresolved.
Parting the Sea of Passengers
The twelve and half hour over night train into Bangkok was full. All the berth seats were sold out. None were available at the train station. They had to be bought through agencies in Vientiane at a higher price. The berths weren't much to begin with. They are for tiny petite people. Most people who go berths were westerners who were twice as long as the berths.
During one of the Northern stops in Thailand, a pair of Thai forest monks got on the train. A younger one and an older one. The entire cart was full of people. I watched the younger monk stare down the isle with focus and intent to get to his seat without accidentally having to come into physical contact with anyone by his means or from others. Then he walked. It was so interesting to watch him part the sea of passengers with his intention to create a safe walking narrow zone as he put one foot in front of the other.
Behind me sat a young lady who had a 2 month old palmamarian puppy. It was so cute with puppy hair and all. It only recognized its owner's feet so it followed the feet closely whenever the pair of feet moved. It was so cute to see.
Spinal Brace
I dreamed this morning that I got a spinal healing. The healer recommended that I get a brace for my back since it has been collapsing. I also promised to to Tai Chi regularly as I have done daily for the past 6 years but flaked out for the past few months. I woke up with a great feeling of wellness. I felt really great and well rested.
Good Samaritan
I woke up clear about how I would need to leave Laos right away. It all seems silly to run all this way just to go back. But I knew this was what I had to do even though I resisted it.
I didn't find any flight out of Laos. It's quite a small service and only flies to six cities world wide. So it occurred to me that I would have to fly out of Bangkok instead. Friday is the start date for the end of the year vacation for Thai. What it all adds down to is for me is to head to Bangkok airport as soon as I can and hope to beat the entire country by a few hours since I didn't have a ticket.
I parted with the couple who were on separate gift search missions for each other for Christmas. It was cute. Then I headed out for a meal at a local place. I talked to the chef and asked where I could go to take a bus to the border. He told me how to walk there etc.. I must have looked so confused on such simple directions along with a map he hand drew that he took pity on me and offered to give me a ride on his motorcycle. He is also Chinese and we spoke Mandarin together. I offered to pay him but he didn't accept so I bought a few bottles of water from him instead.
I got to take the public bus for 4KIT instead of 70 to 9- KIT on a tuk tuk. As he drove me I recalled the instructions he gave me and was I glad he drove to get me there to the central bus station. And then he hunted down the right bus for me and made sure there was a seat for me. That was very nice of him to take care of me. It would have taken me a long time to figure out where the local bus station was. It would have taken me long to figure out which bus to get on since there was no signs and people didn't speak English. I am sure there is a form of organization in this market/bus lot, but I think you would have to be a local here to figure out the system.
On the bus I sat next to a Thai girl who was heading to Nong Khai. She was happy to guide me in the universal language of smiles and hand gestures, suggesting that I get a cold soda with ice in a plastic bag and drink it out of a straw. All transactions were done out of the bus window between the bus and the vending stall. You just yell at the vendor and someone who is in between the bus and the vendor who is often a customer also will just be kind to lend a hand to complete the transaction without asking for any tips. It's very good Samaritan without a scene of crisis or tragedy to inspire the goodness.
At the border the shuttle that took us across to the train station was a truck with two benches on the back. I was packed in with a group of people from Philippines who had to cross the border to extend their work Visa to work in Thailand. This group was on their way to a bus station when they found out I was doing the same but by train and cheaper they decided to get off when I did at the train station.
I handed my very beloved snorkel gear to the man named Romeo as a gift. I decided I needed to do that to part with the itch of wanting to go to Maldives. I knew I didn't have to part with the gear to do that but I felt I would stare at it and feel bad that I am not going to Maldives. I find it difficult to find gear or things that fit me just right to begin with so to part with it was work for me.
I also cam across 2 Hunnan couples who has been in Bangkok for 6 months and also renewing their VISA. The man has been looking for work. I ended up translating for them and they were very happy.
At the station while waiting for me train to show up, I came across a group of nuns who were packing up a big box of alms bowls. I encouraged the Hunnan guy, and Romeo to help since he had the physical strength to do it and so also plant blessings in hopes that he can find work.
On the train the nuns were in the same cart and I helped them with their luggage too. Afterwards the nuns gave me a blessing by tying a band around my wrist. Then she handed me a few more and gestured to hand it out to those who helped them to get onto the train, so I went looking for Romeo and the Hunnan couple. This was new for all of them to experience a tying and a blessing of good wishes. I love to watch people receive goodness in sincerity. It is a truly special moment and difficult to describe.
Dreaming of Islands
Last night I dreamed I was at a dock on a tropical island getting information on how to get to two other islands. The weather was beautiful, everything was wonderful. I woke up wondering whether or not these islands were actual places on earth that I will be on in the future or did they only exists in dream world.
Train Ride to Nong Khai
I got off the bus at 5am and the girls room all the ladies were grooming themselves to perfection. I can’t believe how awake and alert they are at 5am in the morning for a beauty session. It was fascinating to watch them.
I knew getting a cab to the train station would cost 50 to 70 BHT but that I would have to pay a tourist price instead. It was too early in the morning to try to catch a bus and go cheap. I wanted to get to the train terminal to catch the train into Laos. I arrived at the station and was greeted by nice and very helpful workers. I bought the 6am train to North Thailand at Nong Khai. Then I would have to cross the border. The ticket was for 348 BHT. On the way tot the train deck I saw a monk getting food. The lady said it was all vegetarian. The vendor made quite an offering but the monk asked for more. The lady started to shoo him away and I had a déjà vu. I recalled this scene from a dream. In which had an opportunity to make an offering for this monk at this stand, exactly like this at this time. In the dream I forgot to make an offering and I woke up with deep regrets. I had forgotten about this because I had not been in a Thai train station before. I told the vendor I would cover the cost of whatever was additional he asked for and he recited a blessing as I stood there to receive it.
In my cart were four Britishs who were all going to Laos. Since the train arrives in the evening they were concerned with the border being closed by the time we arrived. It would be a twelve and half hour train ride.
In front of me was a Western man with a Thai girlfriend. He was drinking at 6am in the morning. In fact he drank the entire time one after another. I befriended a Swiss and Irish couple and we traded travel information. They are traveling around the world for a year.
On the train I recited the whole way especially passing by the opium plantations. A few years back in meditation I saw a map of Asia and a demon showing up to tell me which area was under his jurisdiction that if I was to enter his area that I am not to interfere with his work. He had a black book and in it were names of people. People who would become future demons by staying in pain and grief. It was the first time I looked at a demon from a different light. Once people who were stuck in pain and expressed it in anger. This demon was once a friend from the past. It was during a Roman Era. He was a skilled strategic military soldier who believed in the continual warring would bring about peace and safety of his beloved ones at home. Although he was not a general he was sure on his way up. He was extremely disciplined. Ten year later, when he arrived home he found a deserted land full of skeletons and skull. The entire town was not protected and instead was raided and destroyed. Everyone died long ago. He cursed the sky for the lie he lived in for the past decade and all his efforts were in vein. It was then the stepped onto a path to a career in demon life.
As I sat on the train I recalled why I was always afraid of this part of the world and not really know why. Now I know. I feel I enter this part of the world with nothing but hope in my heart, and joy that everything heals in time.
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