Halloween Party at Mix Youth Hostel

I took the public bus and walked around in search for the Mix Youth Hostel where I was staying for the night. There are a few hostels in Chengdu and I really didn’t know which one to go to. I just picked one that answered my call for a reservation on the phone on the bus ride over.

I checked into Mix Youth Hostel for 15 yuan a bed. The entire staff was busy setting up for a Halloween party at 8pm. So much for going to bed early to get up early at 6am for my 7:50am 10 hour bus ride to JiuZhaiGo. I can see the staff has been waiting all year for this event. They are more excited than any of the guest to have a Halloween party. It’s a big deal for them. They were very excited and wanted everyone to have a good time. Except they really didn't know that Halloween is an American phenomenon and not a universal western one. They got all dressed up and stuff, it was cute. Even some of the shop girls on the street painted their face lightly and did their hair in the spirit of American costume holiday. This is probably as outrageous as they get. The workers really cannot tell who is American by the mere use of English language alone.

I checked out the free internet access, washing facility for laundry, shower, etc… In this humidity, it would take a few days to hang dry my clothes. My room was on the top floor and I asked for a lower bunk. The only thing I don’t like about top bunk is the ladder, getting in and out of bed to use the rest room. I am usually too sleepy, in other words, not awake yet to handle the ladder well. I have a tendency to fall off the ladder and hurt myself. My record of running average is every other time I use it. It’s not good, not good at all.

I dropped my bag off and went straight out to shop and get myself oriented around town because after heading north of Sichuan, I would be back in Chengdu to eat, and hang out to do laundry etc… I found a super market and went to see about getting a new day pack since it has a big whole in it courtesy of the monkeys on Mt. Emei. Well, the day packs were not any better and three to four times more than what I had paid for. So I decided to buy a sowing kit and sow the whole together until I come across a pack that I see that can handle the traveling. I also bought snacks for the trip north to Jiuzahigo and Huang Long. But I didn’t see anything I wanted for dinner by the hostel so I ended up eating my snacks for dinner.

In my room, a woman in my mother’s age was staying at the bunk across from me. She was looking at China’s National Geographic’s issue on places to visit in China for 2006. She was a sweet lady who now regularly resides in Hong Kong. She advised me in a very serious important manner this; to travel and use my legs when I can instead of when they are old and suffer from hiking and walking. She said in her age for her to travel alone, it’s impractical, she has been able to because there has been nice people who would just volunteer to help her on and off buses and trains etc… I assured her that I was using my legs a lot while they still work at my age.

This elderly lady wanted to visit Tibet but she feared her health would not permit her to handle the high elevation of Tibet. I told her I just came from there and it is lovely. I also told her I was headed for Jiuzhaigo where she just came from. She recommended the newly built youth hostel for me to stay in. I was happy about this information because I really didn’t know where I would stay tomorrow night. I heard all the hotels were very expensive, but the youth hostel, not.

As I headed for the showers, I was cut off by a nine year old girl who jumped in the stall and took over before I could. So I waited outside instead. While waiting for the showers I listened in on two 9 year old girls talk in both shower stalls. They were having a conversation on what to do about the lifestyle of being environmentally conscious and having very cool stuff. They debated about this dilemma of being cool to the earth and cool at their school. The two were trying to come up with a solution and a balance, it was fun listening to them brew it over nice hot showers, very long shower that I wanted to be in so I can go to bed afterwards. The conclusion was, they are doing both and it's working out well. They hate having to waste water but they loved staying in the shower for hours, at least it felt like that to me. They were cute, funny, and honest.

While trying to sleep, some kids at the hostel came around aggressively banging on the door for trick or treat. I had candy on me to give but they were tired, cranky kids who were all acting out and I thought the last thing they need is more sugar.

Lu Shan Big Buddha

The long distance bus station turned out to be further away than I thought and with my packs on, it took longer than I thought to get there. I finally arrived at the bus terminal and bought a ticket for 9:40am to Lushan. The ticketing lady was very nice and helpful. I got onto the bus and met Manning, retired fellow from Du Pont, France. When it came time to depart, we were the only two on the bus along with the driver.

The bus driver was a man in his 40's who really didn't look like a bus driver. He had a kind face, and a happy heart. I decided to inquire on how he does it, what's his secrete method because he looked good like someone who enjoyed his life. We ended up talking and laughing the whole way. He said to me, "Money is good for use when you need it, but what is more important, a happy heart. What is all the money for if you are not happy?" When we got to Lushan he really took cared of us. He helped to check our bags in at the bus station and that we knew which trail to take one we got into the area. He instructed us to not be tricked by sharks lurking outside the entrance of the park. We bid our good byes and he went on to the rest of his day driving the bus.

Once we got into the park, Manny and I went to check out the caves. In these cave were images carved out of the red stone mountain. They were beautiful and old, most of them were not completely intact. The Big Buddha facing the water was beautiful and worth seeing. But it also made me sad over the three that was lost in Afghanistan by the bombs, how much more amazing those must have been.

It rained the whole time. It was getting late for me and I needed to head out to the long distance bus terminal to get a seat to Chengdu. I don't wish to arrive after sundown to find my way around Chengdu for my hostel. So Manning and I parted, he continued on because wanted to see the rest of the park in the rain. LuShan felt really nice except for all the puddles and getting all my luggage wet.

Simplicity In Hearts

I used the restroom at the bus station where my bags were stored and used their restroom. The clerk yelled at me for having turned on all the lights just to use the restroom and wasting resources. It was pitch dark in there. I couldn’t even figure out where the squatting toilets were. There was a light for the sink, a light for the hall, a light for the toilet all at about 30 watts each, so I turned each one on, one by one as I finally found the toilet. How am I suppose know my way around the place when it is only my first time. I thanked her for letting me use the restroom and headed out to wait for a local bus to the central station where there are long distance buses to Chengdu.

It was pouring. The bus curb was definitely full of big puddles, the big ones you see in the movies where someone gets fully drenched when he stands right next to it and a cab drives by. The catch is, when the bus driver does not see riders waving at him to pull over, he won’t stop unless there happens to be someone getting off. So,… I wondered what I should do about staying just a bit more dry. I’m not going against a calm flat puddle that looks harmless but can turn into a tsunami, I still have hours before I get to Chengdu. I decided to ask around to see if others are getting on the same bus and no one answered me. They just all ignored me. I was on my own. I decided to gamble it. I stood by the curb on my toes, ready to jump back when a vehicle approaches. I am aware of the risk of getting wet, but at least this way it will only be partial and I can still flag my bus down.

When my bus arrived, I jumped onto the bus, other ran like mad to catch the bus because they were hiding from the rain in the distance. The ticket lady for the bus was young in her twenties who wore a pair of tight jeans, a jumper top and a pair of two inch bright white high heels. She sat cross legged over the bus engine leaning side ways towards the bus driver. She looked as if she was posing for a hot rod poster. This lady took great pride in making it known to everyone on the bus that she has a sharp tongue that can argue and spit anyone down as if they were bullets coming out of a gun.

I wondered what is it with these women that I have been coming across lately who seem to have to show a lot of fangs at everyone and made it be known they can’t be messed with. I wondered what kind of experiences they have had that drives them to hang on to this habit in these ways. This kind of distressed pride, the struggle of always being on the defensive run or offensive attack in my opinion does not lead to clarity, truth, justice, or happiness. It was sad for me to see.

At the Lushan long distance bus station I came across a couple I met earlier at the Big Buddha who was also catching a bus to Chengdu to catch a evening plane. The lady was a vegetarian and we had her boyfriend watch our bags while we went to search for lunch across the street. I ordered food for them and had eggplant rice myself. The whole place was interested in the fact I spoke English. One of the very young male chef full of enthusiasm came out especially to converse with me only to ask me about gold currency in British pounds as if I would know what the exchange rate into RMB was just because I spoke English. He must have assumed all people who spoke English must have come from England. I didn’t know and replied that way. He was mad and offended, he expressed it by walking off as if I was a snob to not take him seriously.

The whole time while I was eating my food, I had a déjà vu about it all. That in a dream I dreamed about this place and having taken too much time in picking out a place to eat, that I ended up running out of time and missed my bus. Not only that, afterwards had trouble with my luggage because it was abandoned. Remembering this, I inhaled my food quickly and hoped I would not get indigestion or barf it all out on the bus. I ran back to the station through puddles of wet cement hoping I would not fall and break something. When I got back to the station, the boarding had begun and the couple were ready to leave without me because the last boarding call had sounded. I made it just in time to not let the dream become a reality and boarded the bus with my luggage..

On the bus, I did not get the last row on the right over the exhaust pipe like I seem to have the affinity to. I sat in the front. The bus was one of the newer ones and it was clean and comfortable with good stable suspension. Even the DVD was working and the bus played Jackie Chan’s recent movie called Baby Project.

I arrived in Chengdu bus terminal at 3:30pm, with the overcast it felt like dinner time, late and tiring. At the station I headed straight for 3 young male guards in uniform to inquire directions to my hostel on public bus and ways to get to Jiuzhaigo the next day. They were a funny bunch who took great care of me in making sure I was going to experience the safest route and accommodation. They were honest, kind people with simplicity in their hearts, no slightest dust of poison in their pores. They recommended I go and buy a ticket to Jiuzhaigo now instead of in the morning this way I am ensured of a seat for the time I want.

Halloween dream

This morning I dreamed I went shopping for a Halloween costume. I dreamed I was with my brother, picking out an outfit for the event. Just like it can be in dreams, what I wanted was right in front of me, so effortless and perfect, no long lines, wrong sizes, out of stock problems, etc.... I put it on and happily walked out with it.

When I woke up, I realized it must be the 31st, Halloween, one of my favorite days second to Christmas.

Medicine For Others

I made it back to the monastery last night at 7:30pm. The front doors were locked and I went through the back. It took awhile to pick up my bags because the bag check was locked too. The clerk did not enjoy being pulled away from his TV during his off hours to let me in to pick up my bags even though it only took two minutes. Everything was locked and no one was around to answer questions on housing for the night for me. I heard sounds of the evening ceremony and parked myself on a bench hoping to catch someone who can help me on their way out at the end. I saw monks sitting on chairs facing each other across a rectangular table. There were lay people kneeling during the ceremony. I waited and also kept my eye out for passersby.

Then I saw two people who I mistaken as ones I met earlier in the morning and inquired about getting a room. They had me go to the second floor where the even reception was. The reception was unwilling to let me have housing until a monk approved because I held a US passport. Then a monk showed up and let me check in. I paid 10 yuan for a bed in a three bedroom room and I was the only occupancy for the evening. I was so relieved to have the whole room to myself because I really needed to spread myself out in order to repack my pack and privacy to apply medicine on my injuries.

My Fujian Province neighbors befriended me. They consisted of a group of 5 women and one man. They were very nice and took care of me. My ancestors are from Fujian. They were kind in walking me to the showers since I didn't know my way around in the dark and they were curious as to where the showers were too. They helped me to figure out how to get the how water going. I stayed in the showers for a long time disregarding the long shower line outside the door. The group forgot to bring battering charger for their camera and needed to find some one at the monastery who had the same camera and also has their charger. Fortunately for them an Aussie was in the shower line and I asked her if she had one and amazingly she did. The women were so happy and thanked me for translating for them.

This group of women were mostly in their middle ages except for a daughter who was a young professional. They were all vegetarian except for the daughter. One of the moms really want her daughter to be a vegetarian when she heard that I was too. I told her, it has to be an individually inspired choice in order for it to be a long lasting joyful experience.

This morning I knew I needed to head out early in order to do Lushan and then head to Chengdu by early afternoon. I got up and made to early breakfast hours just in time before they shut down the meal. I saw my Fujian neighbors and sat with them. I even finished off their vegetables. I knew I had a day of bus travel and needed to eat well because breakfast would be my main meal for the day. plus unfinished food would just get dumped out and wasted this way. Well, I like pure, clean, monastic vegetarian food, it's so plain and simple. I think it is just so good and satisfying.

I went back to my room to pack up and kept watch on the time. One of the woman came in to ask for medicine for a man in their group who has had diarrhea all yesterday. I poured out half a bottle worth of pills for them. I had two bottles and haven't had to use for myself. This was pretty much the case with all the medicine I brought, it ended up being for someone else except for the Neosporin. I showed the woman how to go about putting pressure on some points in the body that may bee swollen to help speed up the healing. This group was one in unity, they have the all or none mentality. They decided to cancel their hike up the Emei peak to wait for their friend to heal because at this point he can't walk far. The man was very sick and personally came to thank me. He felt he had to return the favor by telling me where to visit in China etc.... I kept looking at my clock and knew I was pressed for time. I didn't care for his advice because he didn't have any personal experience in those places he recommended nor did he have a good understanding of the in's on Buddhism. I told them to come and visit me in US and they would find me at Berkeley Buddhist Monastery where I volunteer regularly. They were shocked that anyone volunteers at the monastery. I don't know why it is so shocking since it's a big part of Buddhist practice, giving of service for others. I don't know how it is done here in modern China to have them to be so shocked.

Time was closing in on my departure, an hour that was set aside for reorganizing and packing went into listening to chatter politely. I ended up stuffing everything into my pack and ran with it down the hill out of the monastery. On the way out, I saw the guard Shr at the door and he said he waited for my return last night. I apologized that I was late because I got lost and things just ended up taking longer than had planned. I thanked him for waiting for me. He said the bus driver that leaves nearby who always passes the front door on his way to this first shift had already passed and I would have to find my own way to the long distance bus terminal in town.

Old Groves At Hung Cun Si

After the monkey attack, all I wanted to do was to head out of this mountain as soon as possible and chuck out the itinerary I had for the day on Emei. I was very hungry and stopped at a noodle stand. Unfortunately the shop keeper is more French than anything else who could not stand tourists who are the financial providers of her livelihood. She resents the existence of tourist because they are the sole reason to her misery, which is work. She was mean and complained right out loud with lots of attitude.

On the trail down I ended up going on the wrong trail and found myself going west instead of south. Well, everything has a reason and there are no true accidents. My legs continued to swell up and scream in pain from the deep monkey bits. I applied medication I had on me every other hour. Every time I stopped I was in more pain. I realized the only way for me to heal quickly and move the chi is to walk.

I came across a man named Andreas from Frankford, Germany. He is a software product manager who is biking all over china on his vacation. He plans to bike into Vietnam and Thailand, both countries I would also like to visit one day. We ended up partnering up and walking for the next 8 hours together. It wasn't what I had planned but I knew that when I stopped walking I would feel the pain, I knew if I kept walking I can get the blood circulating more and heal the wounds.

His goal was to locate particular specie of frogs found here and old trees at Hung Cun Monastery. To do this we would have to pass a designated monkey area. I told him about what happened earlier and he said he would be ready with knock out a monkey with rocks in his hands and pocket. That he had experience with this on Huang Shan earlier in his trip before coming to Emei. He said that all you have to do is have rocks in your hands and make sounds with them. The monkeys will stay away from you when they hear the sound or see that you have rocks.

These monkeys seemed more like apes they didn't have monkey tails and they didn't have baboon noses but they were the size of monkeys in the shape of apes. It started to rain. Upon entering this area of the mountain there were peanut stands selling food for you to feed to the monkeys. There are also workers at this area who had sling shot to aim at the monkeys who are very good at going for tourist bags. A lady with a shopping bag of snacks experienced a grab and run by the monkeys. She was not injured but she screamed and all the park workers ran and aimed shots at the monkey who was successful with rewards of the theft. Something is very wrong with this picture here, encourage the sales of peanuts by feeding the monkeys with it, this encourages the monkeys to go for humans with food on them, and it encourages monkeys getting attacked with rocks flying out of sling shots.

We passed the monkey area to reach the area where these special frogs are found. We were both on an adventurous search. These frogs are said to be only two inches long and are known for the sac they have over their mouth to enable breathing under water. Sounds cool huh! Well, we tried hard looking in the water and also under foliages, we did not spot these cool looking frogs. We did end up seeing beautiful birds flying here and there with amazing colors and patterns that I have never seen before. I like watching birds and these were beautiful birds who flew over our heads and hung out on the rocks over the river bed. It was fun, in the rain and all.

This part of Sichuan reminds me of Taiwan, lush, green, humid, and beautiful. There are mini waterfalls, creeks that ran through beautiful sceneries, crystal clear water, and lots of interesting things of nature worth taking the time to stop and look at.

I realized Andreas only picked up 30% of my English. He was a gentle, polite, quiet kind of fellow who appreciated the fascinating details that the nature provides. I enjoyed his company. At one point he picked up a butterfly who had one wing stuck onto the wet ground to put it aside for safety until its wings dried enough to fly. I was amazed at such care and regard for nature and all its creatures he showed and wondered if this applied to his meals.

Andreas had an elevation meter reader on him and he was able to see how high up we were. It was his way of figuring out where we were and how long we would take to get to places because distance on the map can be off but the elevation of the mountains are usually correct. What a handy tool to have and I think I would like to add that to my backpacking kit. I wonder if they sell this at REI or is it a German thing?

We made it to Hung Cun Monastery where these old trees are suppose to be very old and amazing. Well, that really was not the case. There were tress labeled for its kind. They were old but not as old and ancient as we thought they would be. It wasn't a big disappointment but it didn't hit the spot either. It didn't live up to the hype.

At Hung Cun Monastery I met a monk who liked being a monk and liked cultivation. He lit incense by the hour, bowed, circumambulated, and sat by the alter to hand write a sutra. He had a peaceful smile on him, he was someone who minded his own business and did not turn the sanctuary into a circus show. It was quiet there because there was no one there. it's too far and high up. I like the quietness.

Andreas had the plan of walking all the way to the west and then heading south down the mountain to Bao Guo Si. Well, it turned out the map is just relative and it took a lot longer than he thought. It was dinner time and we were hungry so we stopped by a food stand that was closing up and ate 14 yuan worth of persimmons, potatoes, and tofu. But the shop keeper charged us 20 yuan instead of 14 with a wide grin on her face. We paid for it anyways even though we were being cheated. Both Andreas and I were tired and didn't want to deal with it. The light was disappearing and we picked up our pace in heading down the mountain in hopes of finishing before all the light goes away. Well, it was dark, pitch black dark and we were still on the trail. At the point we had to slow down big time because we could not see at all. Neither one of us had lights on us for some reason. I really didn't enjoy being in the dark. There were weird sounds coming out of the mountain, like groans, and shrieks. We both heard it, it wasn't just me. They were sounds we did not recognize as originating from animals. They were more like sounds of the creatures or spirits of the night. We didn't like it and convinced each other it may just be water in the mountain moving through or something of that sort. We ended up walking in the dark with my cell phone as the flash light. This last part of walking in the dark with the very dim light coming out of my cell phone screen was stressful for the both of us. We made it out of the trail at 7pm. Andreas and I bid our goodbyes and went our separate ways.

Monkey Bits At Wan Nian Si

I was hungry and wanted to sit down for a bit before I exited the monastery. I noticed that with all the tour groups running around people did not have hand bags or back packs on them. I figured they just left them in their tour bus to make the trek easier. I saw a pavillion with a tour group to the left, in the middle, there were monkeys around being fed by other visitors with fruit. I didn't know there were monkeys here. It was surprise for me and I felt it was safe to sit away from the monkey to the left. I sat to photograph a monkey and then all of a sudden, all three monkeys jumped on me and attacked me. I jumped up asking the monkeys why they are doing this to me as I sped away.

Everyone was laughing off their seats and no one came to me to help me in any way. I was in so much shock and pain that my legs trembled and I could hardly stand. My pants were full of brown muddy monkey paws. I got badly bit in five different places on both legs. I was black, blue, and red. I couldn't believe I was bleeding and that this was all happening while everyone around me just continued to laugh.

I looked right into the eyes of the big monkey who seems to be the head of the gang. I saw that in the past we were all humans and I was also a member of his gang along with the other two monkeys. I decided to leave the gang and not follow him and his unlawful habits. He was mad that I left the group and no longer followed him as a leader. I told him I don't regret parting with the group because I would have ended up as a monkey like them continuing in their monkey habits under his leadership. I'll just call it debt paid.

I like animals and still do, but now,.... monkeys, no way, no more Jane Goodall and all her primates.

Chicken Cat Fight

I headed up to Emei mountain by taking the local public bus for 1.5 yuan. It dropped me off at an intersection on the mountain and I had to walk to the entrance. My walk was a lovely one. I really enjoyed looking at small patches of farm lands and all the luscious foliages everywhere. On the way to the entrance I heard sounds of children laughing. I followed the sounds and saw a small preschool of two classroom's worth of students dancing in the courtyard. It was very cute. The sounds of children laughing and playing are so joyful to the ear.

At the entrance I saw lots of tourists and the lines for the cable car were packed. Lots of people were being carried on bamboo seats by a pair of men. Back in the old days only the noble class could afford such a service. I hear from others that they want such a service now to get a little taste of it. Some people looked sick from their trip in tour groups that they needed to be carried. Some people could not hike the trail. Whatever each person's reason was, there are plenty of people whose livelihood depended on such an income. The locals like to make fun of Taiwanese travelers. They are labeled as having weak legs with money. Upon the sounds of Taiwanese tour group arrival at the entrance, all the workers make a mad dash down the trail in hopes of picking up a rider. It was interesting to watch how they put down their customers so terribly and in the same time could not live without them either.

I did the trail that would end up in WanNianShi. On the trail I met three woman, an elder lady and two younger ones who was in their late 20's looking in their 40's. The elder woman was carrying a freshly dead whole chicken in one hand and leeks on the other and was visiting her sister that owns a tea farm. She invited me to tea and to introduce me to her sister. She said she would pour me tea once I get there and I would not have to buy anything she says. The elder woman trailed behind while the other two walked with me.

On the trail I was like a hot cake. People all were curious of me and in the same time also wanted to sell stuff to me by connecting to me as a friend. But were they genuinely interested in a friendship or did they just want my money? The trail was a bit tight for the three of us to be walking side by side. Two was fine but three was a crowd so the two ladies started to fight over who would walk by my side. It got so bad and they were on the brink of physical violence that it was scary for me. It was a combination of a nasty chickens bickering and cats pouncing each other in a fight. The two fought over who could walk with me,.. weird, just weird! Maybe it's all the spicy food they eat here in Sichuan, too much fire? But the previous Sichuan people I met in Yubeng and Lijiang were all sweet, mellow, nurturing, and full of humor.

The elder woman and I came across her sister's place, it was a tea stand on the trail. She sold tea there. She came through with her promise. I had tea, two kinds of tea. One was said to be herbal, meaning good for your health. I didn't like the taste of this one. The other was a cross between a Dragon Well and a Mao Feng. The fresh tea leaves smelled good, they were properly harvested, roasted, and stored. Unfortunately these tea sellers didn't know how to bring out the potential of the tea leaves and burnt them, they were bitter and cut the throat on the way down. Silly isn't it for a tea grower to not know how to brew tea. Maybe they were imposters? I sincerely wanted to buy tea but didn't due to the bad serving of tea.

One of the ladies who were involved in the fighting was born on the year of the rabbit. She insisted on wanting to tell me the story of the fighting that just went on and that it was the other person's fault. That no one can mess with her and get away with it because she can defend herself. Let's just call this lady Rabbit. I told her that I was there and saw everything. She felt comforted by that somehow and mistakenly interpreted my response as support for her aggressive, competitive, mean spirited ways.

Afterwards, Rabbit decided to tell me about her life. She works at the hotel right outside the entrance gates and has a 7 year old son who lives with her mother. Her husband chops bamboo and then sells it for 1 yuan each. He recently got injured and can barely work. He complained of her unwillingness to care for him and visit him at the hospital. She complained of him spending his money on gambling all the time. Rabbit said she married her husband at age 21 because she felt touched by his meager background that someone who was raised this way would know how to cherish others and take care of others. They are now separated.

On this day, Rabbit is hiking up the mountain for her lover who died suddenly in a car crash in August and not for her injured husband. She met her lover while she was working at a university in her late teens. He was her manager who she regarded as her soul mate. I asked why she didn't marry him or stay with him if he was so important to her. She said she was too young to understand these things and that it wasn't till later that she realized he was her best friend, her love, her soul mate but by then she had married her husband. She hopes by making a pilgrimage up the mountain, she can help him move into the heaven by burning incense and making a wish. She said there is no love in her life anymore and if it is not for her son, nothing is worth living for. I felt sorry for her, for all her sadness, bitterness, pain, regrets, and blaming everyone else for every misery in her life.

As we approached the steps of Wan Nian Monastery, Rabbit switched gears into her sales pitch mode. She talked about skin care, on how she takes care of her skin by drinking tea and water. She asked me if I want to be beautiful because she has a relative who is in the cosmetic care industry and can save my yellow, tanned skin so that I can be beautiful like her. I'm Chinese, I am genetically born with yellow based skin. I live in California, it's known as the sun state. I love being under the sun, to swim in the ocean, to hike in the mountain or to just sit in the gardens to have tea and read a book. Yes, aging and the deteriorating of the body is a fact of living and dying. I am fine with the face I've got. Yes, it ages, and changes colors too. I showed no promising interest in buying her sales and right away she was no longer interested in me. So we parted upon the door of Wan Nian Si. I later met rabbit again on down trail and she had that very feisty poisonous look on her face again. Too bad, such a young person yet looking so toxic and old and insisting that is what beauty is made of.

Upon entering the monastery I noticed that it was filled with tour groups. I had originally wanted to stay and meditate and maybe stay at the monastery but I ended up just doing a few bows to the famous Samadhabadra image in Wan Nian Si, walked around it a few times quietly singing the new repentance song in English and then left.

Bao Guo Si

I learned that my train drops me off in Emei station at 4:10am. The good thing about sleeper berth in China is that the ticket collector will come and wake you up. As soon as she woke me up, I jumped up and got ready to exit. It was really early in the morning and I could have used more rest.

The stars were still out when I landed at the station and only a few people were exiting the train. I learned the public bus did not operate till 7amm in the morning. As I headed for the exit, I could see the cab drivers all hanging over the railing waiting to pull in a rider. I was approached by a driver who promised to drive me to Bao Guo Si for 5 yuan. On the road he kept telling me to check into his company hotel and take his company tour bus up Emei for 120 yuan and that lunch would be included but not the entrance fee, etc... I said," no, take me to my monastery." I guess he was unhappy with that and he dropped me off at an intersection insisting that cars are not allowed to go to the monastery, which was a bunch of crap. I seem to have lots of affinity with getting dropped off middle of no where or some where that is not my destination like we agreed on. And since I haven't been at these places before I would discover the difference until later.

I was out on the middle of some intersection at 4:20am. There were no cars and no one on the road. It was pitch dark with one street light. I had no idea where I was. Everyone was still asleep this early in the morning. The road was very quiet. I stood in the middle of this intersection pondering what I should do. Then I heard bells being rung and it was the sound of monastery bells. I followed the sound of the bell and walked in the dark until I finally found the monastery. But the doors were locked with operating hours posted to it. I had three hours to wait before the doors would open.

I decided to sit outside and meditate. While I sat in meditation, I can feel all the bustling of tourists from the day before. Many people left themselves here. The morning ceremony really cleansed the air. It's like rain, washing and grounding everything down. The air cleared and it was lovely to sit in mediation. I found myself falling asleep in the cold off and on. I learned that I can sleep while meditating out in the cold.

As the light was being turned on in the sky, I watched neighboring residents pass by before they headed to work and made bows to the front doors. They all seem to refuse to talk to me. Or maybe they thought I was a ghost and got scared. I was wearing my white polyester jacket and had the hood on. It took me awhile to realize this in the dark.

I chased a man down and asked him questions. He continued to walk and he bowed to the tree next to the door. I asked him why does he bow to the tree. He said he didn't want to tell me. I asked him why. He replied, "In life there are too many whys, that's why." I stopped chasing him, not because I was satisfied with his smart reply, it was because I can't stand people who try to make thing secularly exclusively mysterious and unnecessarily complicated. He then circumambulated the front square three times and made full Tibetan prostrations three times and then left.

I decided to would get up to stretch before doing a set of Tai Chi Chuan. I saw simultaneously, a front door guard approaching the gates along with a lady stepping out of a taxi who is in Sichuan for a conference. I was able to get in with them. The guard's name is "Shr" like rock who gave both the lady and I a tour of the monastery. He set me up with storing my bags for the day and gave me a heads up on where to go on Mt. Emei including where to eat. I think I was treated with extra care because I tagged myself to the business woman who was finely dressed and looked to Shr with authority on Buddhism.

In Shr's little introduction on Buddhism, he talked about sincerity that it's not the size of the incense stick that matter but the heart. Didn't this just sound good and proper! Well, we went by the Gilding Image Hall where everyone has the opportunity to express their sincerity by making a donation for gold leaf to post on the image to increase good blessings and end bad karma. I was then instructed to bow on the middle cushion first then move to the left then to the right to bow three times this way. No, I didn't do as he instructed. I made my three bows all on one cushion that was to the right and avoid the center in general. No, I did not buy gold leaf to paste on the images for life times of endless blessings and lessening of my bad karma. I think if the images were in need of repair then I would, but these images were very bright and gold already. I am one incompliant person, stubborn and hard to teach.

Cell Phones in China

Last night I didn't go to bed till 12am and then another new roommate arrived at 2am. I didn't sleep from then on. Since I didn't fall back asleep I got up very early to head for the bus station. I waited for a local bus to take me to the long distance bus station, but it was still dark and the sun has yet to rise, I waited for a long time and the bus did not come. Another bus rider flagged down a bread mini van and we both got on. I made it to the bus station and had very watery soy milk at the stand outside the station. I think the best soy milk is in Taiwan, it can not be found anywhere else, rich, sweet, fragrant, the real thing. I slept the whole way on the bus swinging back and forth on the seat. It took 8 hours to get to Pan Jr Hua.

At the train station I bought the first train available to Emei. I had an hour before boarding and decided to run some errands. I hit the ATM machine just incase the ones in Emei didn't work or wasn't reading my card. I went fruit shopping and bought sweet tangerines. Why drink juice when you can eat the real thing. I went to a cell phone store to load up on my account. The young working professionals were very kind to help me. They didn't have to but they did. The young man took myself and did everything for me. He decided to help me because I looked like a foreign traveler and I was not familiar with up loading my phone for credits. I like this system that involves loading the account paid per minute instead of monthly contract. It's pretty cheap this way and there are no contracts. As a consumer, I can easily switch to a better company that is offering better service and cheaper rate at no penalty against me.

How does a cell phone work in China? You buy a phone, then a card, then buy minutes to load into the card account. It is important to figure out what kind of card to get. There are ones that only work within the province and there are country wide access cards. The proper card will mean great saving on minutes. You can buy minutes at any news stand, store, etc... Everything is versatile and there are plenty of companies to choose from. People in China are very hip and in with cell phone selection and accessories. They are not cheaper to buy in China. I have a lime green one made by a local company. Anyone who sees snares at it, and always asks me why I choose such a brand, and my response is, "it was the cheapest."

Instrument For Healing

I got up really early thinking I would pack to go to Sichuan with the other two men in the room. They were nice to wait for me. However, after packing, I decided to check out the possibility of taking a flight to Chengdu and parted with the two men and went back to bed. Maybe the real reason was that I was too tired and I really did not have a particular need to rush to anywhere. Everyone else in the room departed for their new destinations.

The second sleep was excellent, it was just what I needed and I woke up with a smile. I felt rested after that. I re-hung my damp laundry that did not fully dry over night and headed to reception to find out about reserving a ticket to Chengdu. The agency did not charge a service charge for this but needed my passport information so I was instructed to go to the agency with simple directions. As it turns out, I did not find the office and ended up at another one. I think I wasn't fully awake yet and my head was still a bit groggy. I bought a ticket for Chengdu and changed my mind right away because all the flights were evening flights and I would land after 11pm or later. I decided I needed fully wake up and also needed to eat something and then sort this all out afterwards.

I found a noodle shop over looking the water. I met four people from Sichuan who were all police officers on staff vacation. It all started with a camera. They wanted their group photos taken and I took it for them. They were very curious of the fact that I would travel alone. They found my stories interesting and took a picture of me to show to their friends and family when they go home. They told me to return my ticket and go by bus and train that it was much cheaper and I should save my money and spend it somewhere else.

I was convinced and after lunch went to return my ticket for a fee, I still saved a lot of money since the ticket was for 680 yuan and the train and bus would be less than 200 yuan all together. I then went to the bus station to buy my ticket for Pan Jr Hua where there is a train that goes to Emei. I did not pick the earliest bus, I choose 7:10am bus. This still gave me plenty of time to get to the train station since the first trains to Emei is between 5-6pm.

Back in the old town, I stopped in shops and marveled at crafts and silver jewelry. There are lots of guest houses with classical courtyards at every turn and corner. There are economical places to stay and there are exquisite places to stay. I stopped by a sign that said 5 yuan to put on Naxi traditional costume. I had the shop keeper take photos of me in it. Naxi tribe inhabited this land and its music is famous. I like the silver jewelry work. I didn't care for the music too much. It's a highlight here, a thing to do as a tourist to go to a Naxi concert. Tickets have to be bought in advance for 100 yuan. The arched bridges over intricate water canals and Song dynasty architecture are beautiful. People spend days here, just relaxing, eating food and drinking tea. There are lots of postcard spots to stop and marvel at, especially in the late afternoon sun through the trees, on the water, and reflecting off the paper window. It's a place to sit, drink tea and imagine doing poetry. I say imagine because there are tourist everywhere. With the warm weather in Yunnan, there is probably tourist all year round.

I came across the group of police officer friends from Sichuan in a tea shop. They invited me to tea and I joined them. It was perfect timing because I wanted to have tea and was looking for a spot to sit and have tea. I haven't properly sat down to have tea in 40 days. I dearly miss just sitting and having tea. I sat and had what I called bad tea. It cost 45 yuan to have a pot of tea. I think the attendant burnt the tea leaves on the first infusion. It is amazing how many people don't know how to take care of tea

Conversations during tea were about their families and running through travel safety in China, yup spoken like good police officers. They tell me the most trust worthy people in China are those in uniform because they have a set salary and their job is to provide information and is not interested in making money off of you. They invited me to the lake and travel with them via government arranged transportation and tour guide all the way back to Sichuan. I wasn't interested in going to the lake and I already bought a bus pass so I turned down their offer.

They were very nice people who gathered me in as a part of their group and I wanted some how to thank them for the tea and their company. Well, the opportunity came when they pulled out their camera. I told them I do photography for a living and did portrait sessions there for each and every one of them. I also showed them how to use their digital camera. I took care of each of them and I realized they had never had a portrait session before in their life like that. I can see it wasn't just fun but also very healing for them. Photography and the camera, can be used as an instrument for healing.

We all had fun at tea and continued to walk and shop. They invited me to dinner but I passed because I wanted to go to bed early to catch my morning bus and my diet is hard to feed. Well, it's not but it can be among non-vegetarians. Plus they were going to a restaurant outside of the old town and I would have to take a cab back late at night by myself and I would prefer not to.

Going to bed early was a fantasy. Back at the youth hostel the receptionist took a liking to hanging out with me and invited me to the lounge on my floor to hang out with some of her friends. She ended up telling me her sob story of her lost love life and her job etc.... It was somehow full of drama, it was too much for me. I was tired but I was interested in looking into the lives of young workers in youth hostels who worked long hours here in China. The pay at youth hostels are typical, people enjoy seeing westerners. Those who speak English can make western friends and enjoy their jobs. Those who don't get easily replaced by other workers who do and their circle of friendships remain among the high turn over rate staffs. I ended up teaching her English and introducing hot chocolate to them. I have found so far people are curious of hot chocolate here, will try but don't really drink it.

In my new room was a new roommate, a girl from Guang Dong who was headed to Zhong Dian and I chatted with her and shared my experience. The guy from Shanghai was there too who applied his certain skill of inflicting fear in the minds of single female travelers in hopes of picking one up and he applied it to the Guangdong girl. She fell for it, he got her convinced that it is too dangerous for her to travel alone and she would be lost without him. He convinced her to talk him into becoming her traveling companion and that it all appeared to be on her invitation and her idea. It was all very interesting to watch. I had told her early on for her to have her own mind and know what she wants and let people have their opinions.

Lijiang Lit by Red Lanterns

We got off the bus terminal and Jorn led the way into Lijiang Ancient Cultural Town. The sun was setting and we walked quickly through the twisty tiny streets, more like alley ways, filled with ancient architecture and decorated with wooden carvings. The streets were lit with warm red lanterns hanging over moon shaped archways and doors. I tried to keep up with Jorn as I looked around totally fascinated as we zipped through the streets. My head was pretty dizzy by the time I made it to the hostel. I could not remember where I was what and was totally disoriented. As it turns out Jorn's hotel is right across from mine.

This hostel had free internet and movie room. My first concern was laundry, access to washing my dusty stinky clothes and hot showers. The hot shower times were evening after people have checked in for the day and morning before people check out. Not having clarity in hot water times can result in very cold showers. My room was on the 4th floor, one bunk among the 9. It was the cheapest accommodation available and with ear plugs I didn't mind all the people in the room. The interesting part about the room set up is each bunk had its own curtain to close off the bunk. This little addition of separation made of sheet bedding material really made a big difference in the experience of privacy among the many.

In my room were two men who planned to travel to Sichuan by train. You would have to first take the first bus of the day to Pan Jr Hua for 57y, hop onto a local bus to the train station and then from there catch the last train to Emei at 5:10p for 130y on a hard sleeper top berth. These two men were heading out to Sichuan the next morning and said I could join them if I wanted to.

How interesting my trip has been, unplanned, no particular goal or direction, I don't even have a lonely planet guide, and I don't know how to search on the China Google engine "baidu", yet, the answers come just when I need it from where is my next destination and how to go about it, including where to sleep. This kind of traveling really scares some people, totally unorganized, destination free, ungoal oriented, without time constraint, completely about the process, the journey, the discoveries, no room for the categorizing of conventional travel success or failure.

On my 4th floor there is a beautiful deck and a lounge. The deck over looks the entire town of ancient architectural roofs lit by red lanterns. It was a beautiful and an amazing sight. I spent a lot of time looking at the view before going to bed that night. It was nostalgic and romantic in its own way.

My room was filled with Japanese tourists. They are heading to Vietnam by traveling south to the border, a country I would like to visit one day myself. They all spoke Japanese, they formed a group on the internet to do this trip together. This method I hear is quiet popular now, it is especially so in Hong Kong.

I dropped my bags off and set up my bed and organized the evening for myself. I wanted to walk around and see the town even though I was very tired, plus I desperately needed to locate an ATM that will take my card. I walked to the main eating area and checked out what was popular. I followed the river and walked over many arched bridges. The entire town was red in the evening lit by the red lanterns. I discovered hot pot or shabu-shabu was the most popular here. People don't actually come with their families. That this was a popular company, staff retreat, or vacation spot in China. Most sit down spots are catered to groups. I ended up with BBQ vegetable and rice cake kabobs for dinner. It is an easy way to get a variety of vegetables for my diet without extra additives. It is simply cooked over wood and dusted with salt and pepper.

On the way back to rest for the evening I passed by the cultural performance area where dancers performed cultural dances and sang tribal songs. Other parts where there were bars, also had karaoke and I think people who are drunk or maybe they weren't but just sing terribly should really spare everyone else's ears. Or maybe this is just the tactic of bar owners to get everyone else to drink more so they wouldn't mind the terrible singing and they are not going to remember a thing the next day anyway.

After returning to the hostel, I picked up my machine washed laundry to hang dry. I ended up befriending the entire female staff at the hostel. I don't know how this happened, or may be I just don't remember but that's how it worked out. They wanted to hang out with me and chat with me. We had to schedule times for different days during their off work hours to do so.

On the same floor a man from Shanghai chatted with me about going to Zhong Dian. He asked me what my plans were after Lijiang. I planned to go to Sichuan to Mt. Emei. He told me I shouldn't take the train or bus that it is all too difficult and confusing that I would get lost, etc.... He went on and on only to fill me up with fear, all to sell his pitch about how I need a man to travel with and he is the candidate and that I need to go to Zhong Dian with him because it's a good place to travel. He didn't understand that I just came from there or maybe he didn't care and just wanted some one to accompany him. I didn't fall prey.

After shower, I crawled into bed and realized I was in a bit of cultural shock or shock of some sort. I had just come from the quiet town of Yubeng where there are less than 20 families and no more than two dozen tourist, surrounded by pristine majestic wild mountain where the lives stock graze right in front of your door steps and the only noise is really the pigs squabbling, to a kind of Universal Studio type place full of people, tight alleys, and things to buy everywhere. I was in shock from sensory overload. Maybe I am just tired and in need of good rest that I haven't had in the last two weeks.

Food Stands in China

We both got up early for our bus, we were both on the dawn buses firsts for the day. Wang's bus was headed back to school. The school she volunteers at was started by her mentor, her teacher to provide free education to rural children who could not afford typical school tuition. She was so moved by this cause that even against her family's wishes for her to spend a year or more of her precious youth in working for free in serving a compassionate cause. Although time with Wang was short, I got to peak at different sides of her that was interesting and dynamic hidden in the presence of men.

My bus was heading back to Zhong Dian bus terminal so I can catch another bus to Lijiang. On the ride out, the bus driver stopped at White Horse Mountain vista point where there was a spot for burning of incense and prayer over looking an incredible view of snowy mountain peaks. He stopped to burn incense and made a prayer for a safe journey. He was a safe driver who respected, nature, and the mountain roads.

At the Deqen downtown long distance bus terminal, I bought a ticket to Lijiang. I was told there is a bus each hour and I picked the next bus available. I was hungry and decided to go to a noodle stand right outside of the terminal where all the cab and bus drivers go to eat. I left my bags with a mother and a daughter to watch, I didn't know their names but just decided to trust them.

Food stand stall in China is typically simple. There is usually a tent like covering over the cooking area. Sometimes this includes the seating area too, sometimes not. Tables range from plastic to simple tiny folding ones. As for seating, it is usually plastic stools, sometimes folding ones and they are usually tiny, for Asian female bottoms. It is comfortable enough for you to sit and finish their food but not enough to linger for hours. On the table, you can find disposable chopsticks individually packaged. As for napkins, rarely will you see them and when you do, it's not what you think it would look or feel like. Sometimes there is a roll of toilet paper on the table to be passed around but usually you would have to ask for them. Yes, like Beijing, you will not find soy sauce on the table. I understand now why my friends would bring their own soy sauce to China. The food is often served in a metal bowl or plate covered in plastic bag. Hot food and plastic bag, hum.... have to learn to ignore the possible melting plastic bag factor.

At the stand, I noticed it was full of workers who drove taxi or the bus. I was the only tourist. I ordered noodles with vegetables and leaving everything else out. The lady chef insisted that it was not going to be tasty and decided to add a few ingredients that I couldn't eat. I told her that was not what I ordered, she told me I can just pick it out of my food if I was so insistent. I remained quiet and she ended up deciding to redo my order but by then she was unhappy. While she cooked, I looked for a seat, I noticed every table was taken but there were empty seats. I moved to a corner table and the people there all got up and went to another table. I sat down at this vacant table, made vacant for me, only me. It was like a movie scene where people all moved away from you but refused to acknowledge so and when they notice you noticed they turned their backs on you and tuck their heads into their food pretending not to notice that you noticed. It was just like that. I was pondering why that was so. My food came and I thanked the chef and dug into it. She stood over me, towering me and demanded to know if it was good. Everyone stopped eating and waited for my response. I told her it was and she crinkled her brows and pulled her face back, "good?" she questioned in disbelief.

Maybe this group of working class was waiting for me, this little tourist to be a pain to them, to put them down, to give them trouble? Maybe this is how they have been treated and was expecting trouble from me and was ready for a fight as they united? I don't know, I just wanted to eat a bowl of noodles that would be my meal for the day and not get sick, that's all, very simple, really, truly it is just that simple.

Back at the terminal I went for my bags and the mother-daughter pair had already left for their bus. My bags were unattended and still there. I moved it closer to the entrance door next to a westerner. I asked him to watch my bags while I used the restroom in preparation for my next 4-5 hour journey to Lijiang. I can't remember his name but he is an English teacher on a vacation break. He teaches in Guangzhou and has a standard $700. a month after housing etc...

On the bus I sat next to Jorn from Great Lakes, Canada. He is a retired looking man who enjoys working as a satellite consultant for a company in Hong Kong for $200. per hour. He represents China in global conferences. What does he actually do? He is a satellite legal lawyer. He makes sure his clients have proper rights at proper times, with the satellite pointing at proper degrees etc... And when there is conflict that involves the possible loss of millions of dollars he makes sure he can prove legitimacy with technicalities. On the bus he talked the whole way, for hours.

During a stop on the way to Lijiang, there was a tribal woman dressed in all colors who was not shy about having pictures taken of her. She didn't collect money for pictures taken of her, which meant she dresses like that all day and every day. This part of China still has many aboriginal tribes. Even the Chinese loves to travel to this part of the country.

Not Good Enough For International Tour

Last night I went to bed at 8pm again. There were two European foreigners and the young locals sleeping a floor below me decided they were going to be cool by blasting a radio station that had rap pop music in English most of the night. I had ear plugs on and it didn't seem to work. It interesting to see on the streets and here and there how music and movies that really didn't make the cut in their native countries, some how made it out here as if something good that was good enough for international tour.

Pigs and Humans

I have had the chance to watch the live stocks here and the horses are pretty chilled like the sheep. The mountain goats are a bit goofy. The pigs are a riot, they are goofy and cute too but they fight and bicker and whine like crazy. They sure show lots of nasty attitude too. They reminded me of some humans I know.

Bed Time Stories

I got up this morning and decided to leave the valley and head for the hot spring guest house to pick up my internal backpack. After oatmeal for breakfast I came across Y3 who apologized for not being a better host in showing me around the valley. She told me that she would be leaving shortly too and implied we can leave together and head to Lijiang. However, I was packed and ready to head the trail and declined her offer to stay longer.

I enjoyed my time in heading down the trail. I bid my last good bye at the scenic views of the valley. This little haven is well preserved because the only way in is by foot or horses and it is not an easy hike to trek. I did not stop at any tea stalls; I wanted to keep my body warm so I kept on moving. It was nice to be on the outbound direction and looking at faces of inbound hikers panting and sweating. I understand now when I was hiking up; everyone who was hiking out had a glow in their face and a smile, who all spoke words of encouragement. Yup, it was torturous to do 16 kilometers on steep incline and the reward was worth all the work.

I came across Chen and his new friends Wang and others. Wang, a young college graduate is a volunteer teacher in rural Yunnan. We all shared a car out to Deqen. Chen was dropped off at FeLaiSi a monastery that over looks MeiLi Snow Mountain. He wanted to stay there because of the free internet, hot water for shower, and the golden sunrise on MeiLi Snow Mountain.

Our driver was a 28 years old going on 45. He said, not having been married at 20, that his chances of getting married now are much less. He wanted to go have yak butter tea with us and maybe increase his marriage eligibility with Wang but Wang was not interested.

Wang and I decided to pair up as roommates. She's from ZheJiang and teaches 2 and 4th grade. She and I don't hit it off, Wang showed much more interest in hitting it off with men. However we remained polite and courteous to each other. Wang is a light hearted person and we managed to get along alright. We found a guest house with beds for 20 yuan each. It was low season and the place was slow so we ended up with a top floor double room with a TV all to ourselves in stead of a dorm room set up. I set my bags down on a bed that leaned against the wall and Wang ended up with the window bed which she preferred so it worked out for the both of us. Wang says she needs direct fresh air flow from the windows in order to sleep. I need to be warm away from the window in order to sleep. This meant the window would be open all night and I would have to sleep fully covered except for my nose and mouth to breath. It was fine by me since I like fresh air myself.

We walked the streets of Deqen and saw children doing acrobatic performances for money. These children did not put on smiles for the TV since they were not being broadcasted. In fact they showed a real experience of the acrobatic, rubber flexibility moves, which was pain and difficulty. I wondered what happens to their bones later on in life, will these people have spinal joint troubles and will their movement be impaired at old age.

At the room Wang discovered that a part of her blanket smelled like urine. The receptionist would not allow the exchange for a new one or at least one that didn't smell like pee. So Wang's solution was to keep the window wide open but then compromised and agreed to only have it half open. It really did smell very bad. The fresh air did not end up being very fresh since our next door neighbors smoked like a chimney.

We spent a big part of the evening channel flipping going through all the possible talent competitions or star search. It was fun for me to see, it was new for me. Wang ended up telling me history stories to bring me up to speed on being a Chinese person who needs to know Chinese History. Well, I loved stories and have always enjoyed historical stories. It was a nice way to fall asleep listening to her stories.

Going Home in Dreams

I dreamed this morning I went home to see my family. I only stayed for a flash because I had not finished my journey yet so I had to catch the next flight out to China. This was my third similar dream of going home on the first month of my journey.

Jr'ma La-nu Beautiful Goddess

Jr’ma La-nu means Beautiful Goddess. In the Tibetan culture all women have Jr-ma or La-nu following their name. All women have to be addressed as beautiful or goddess. I told my friend I would like to be simply addressed as Jr’ma La-nu. She laughed and didn’t object but mentioned to me that it’s not how it is done here. I told her it didn’t matter in my case because I am from somewhere else.

After lunch we went to her friend’s place for some lessons in Tibetan traditional dancing. I was taken into a Tibetan home. The entire house was busy with the work of toasting corn kernels. I was offered lunch number 3 but I passed because it may have been cooked in lard. Then I was offered toasted corn kernels by a 94 year old Tibetan elder man, he also offered whole baked potatoes. We ended up toasting corn kernels for a few hours and inhaled lots of smoke from the fire open fire in the center of the house without ventilation or chimney of any sort. To properly toast the kernels, a wooden large wooden stick was used to stir the kernel. I tried to toast but kept loosing kernels outside the pan into the fire and was politely removed from my post. Then we peeled corn husks and sorting corn for another hour or so.

The lady of the house was trying to be very hospitable by offering cigarettes to me. I passed and asked her when she started smoking and she said 26 when her mother passed away, at that time she also picked up drinking. Prior to adding such habits to her life, she claimed to be the best vocalist of YuBeng but such habits destroyed her vocal chords.

So finally we got to dance and when it came down to teaching me people were all shy and didn't do anything. So after hours sacrifice in inhaling smoke, and working for the food I ate, I didn't learn anything.

We sat on the deck and I watched the lady search for lice from her husband’s hair and he picked out ear wax from her ears. It reminded me of primal primate activities. Below the deck were lots of livestock. I watched their sons weave baskets, spoons, and sifters. I asked why the one baby piglet was deformed. He was crawling and could not stand. They told me the horse stomped on that particular piglet and so he can now only crawl.

We headed back and her father was unhappy that she hung out with me for the whole afternoon. She had to please her father by getting me to photograph her, her father, and the construction site to be used as PR for bringing in future business. I didn't enjoy that but I understood her position and did one photograph of her, her father, and the building all in one symbolically. A Rong offered me tea at the tent and then left. I got to drink some sort of random green tea and took off myself. While heading back to my room he insisted he needed to be a good host and chat with me. I insisted I didn't and needed to rest.

Pork Lard, Goat Lard Lunch

I officially rolled off the bed at 10:45am. In my opinion it was too late to go to sacred waterfalls and so I hung out with the construction manager's daughter instead. She's an Aries- Horse. She showed me how to start a fire in the pit. I ended up reciting while I watched for her prepare lunch. I watched how she oiled the pan to with goat lard and knew I couldn't eat it. I watched how she stir-fried rice with pork lard and knew I couldn't eat that too. I watch how she made hash browns with vegetable oil and know I could have that. That was all I ate.

Her father was the construction manager overseeing the additional building being built for tourist. She said she would teach me Tibetan dancing after lunch and we would go to her friend's place. Her father was someone who was suspicious of me or anyone foreign and did not warm up to me. From the complexion in his face and the color and luster in his eyes, he looked like someone who drank too much.

For the meal we sat in their worker’s wooden hut. It was built on open dirt floor. The shower was an open hose that ran onto an open area without partitions. The sleeping area was on top of planks. Everyone slept on that together including my friend, the only girl. There was only enough room for each person to lay neatly right next to each other like sardines. The blankets were all wet and the pillows too. They were wet from the rain and dew dropped in through the cracks. The hut was poorly constructed. I wondered how these people stayed warm at night in damp blankets and pillows with the chilly icy wind blowing in through the wide cracks from the wooden planks. I wondered how much mildew was in the stuffing of the blankets and pillows. I wondered how they continue to live this way when they really didn’t have to. Since they were construction workers, it would be easy to improve their living standard on this job site. Then I remembered the workers on the Great Wall who too slept on the Great Wall in the open in rain and wind. Maybe this is how it is in this part of the world for the construction class.

I was offered a second lunch by Y3 and the school principal, A Rong who was also the owner of the Guest House. It was kabotcha squash stir-fry, I could have that and it was done with vegetable oil. During lunch the conversation got out of hand. A Rong spoke as if he was drunk and talked a whole lot of crap. It really lost respect for him. He expressed his world views on relationships; how a man leans on a wife at home and then out in the world leans on girlfriends. I think he was trying to discourage the union of Y3 and Earth. Since Earth is his only teacher for the only school and he is a volunteer, he had an invested interest to keep Earth around as long as possible. After that conversation, Y3 decided she would head back to Lijiang sooner than her expected departure date.

Why Would I Want to do Anything Else Besids This?

I saw Yens on the way back, they had just arrived from Ice Lake and was switching horses to head back to De Ching the same night. They looked terrible. They looked really tired. They looked like they had a rough ride. Well, it was a rough trail to begin with regardless if you were on a horse or not. It was already 3pm, they hopped onto another horse to help them up the first 10% inclined and dash for the rest 90%. I worried for them. I really didn't think his wife could dash down the mountain. I worried they'd be stuck in the dark with out flash light because it broke. I worried they'd be rained on if they didn't dash. But they were determined to head out.

I also saw Chen who asked me what my plans were and I told him I just came back from a 6 hour hike and I was not interested in hiking for the rest of the day. I just wanted some food, water, and rest. In fact, I haven’t really slept in days. Chen on his own headed for Lower YuBeng Valley where the head trail for the Sacred Waterfalls was. I told him it was beautiful there and much nicer. He wanted to sleep there tonight so he can have a head start for the falls the next day. I really need a good night sleep. I wanted to do my Buddhist practice of reciting and meditating. I wanted to just sit and read. I wanted down time. I wanted a shower but all I’ve got was a pan and cold water.

I went and got a new room from the owner who put me above the residence room on the second floor. Below the residence floor was the open barn floor filled with live stock of pigs, horses, chicken, etc. So technically I was on the third floor. This room was across the construction sight for the new Guest House. It sure was noisy with the chainsaw and all.

I rested and kept warm because I have been soaking wet in my sweat and the body cool down is fast so I blanket myself tight to not catch a cold during cool down and listened to the music from the rain outside. Glad I was not on the trail with Chen in the rain. The rain I saw in the falls had traveled out.

I sat and meditated. It felt nice. I always find it odd this way. When I meditate, I ask myself, “Why would I want to do anything else besides this, this is great.” When I chant, I tell myself, “I just want to chant for the rest of my life, this is wonderful.” When I bow, I tell myself, “I just want to keep bowing, this is good for me.” When I listen to the Dharma, I tell myself, “I just want to keep listening to the Dharma always, why would I want to do anything else?” When I recite mantra, I tell myself, “I just want to recite all the time even in my sleep. This is the best. Why would I want to do anything else?” Then when I drink excellent tea, I tell myself, “This is the best, I can drink tea the rest of my life like this.” Then when I come across my pretty cloths, I tell myself, “Just beautiful, I just want to wear these clothes and do everything in them.”

I decided the food sucked in the tent and ate whatever snacks I hiked in with me. I ate 3 dates, 20 pistachios, 3 tiny sheets of nori, 2 crackers, and an apple from the apple tree outside.

Stay On the Only Path

Had very little rest last night. Y3 and Earth partied till late and the door slams from the others who got up early to head out kept waking me up. Oh yeah, the chilly wind coming in from the only window in the room that won't shut also made it difficult to sleep during the night

I finally got up made myself a cup of oatmeal and ordered noodles with cabbage. The noodles were soggy and gross, very gross. I knew it would be the only meal I would have for the day trip so I ate it. It took me a long time to eat it because it was so gross.

I was encouraged to go to Ice Lake with everyone else. But I learned that to go to Ice Lake it is easy to get lost on my own and that I better to go on horse back because there are guides and the trails are rough. So I ended up picking the easier path of Sacred Waterfall.

I got directions from people, they all told me to, "follow the river". Yes those were the directions and I did. No one told me to cross the river, so I didn't. I kept walking along the river except there were no trails. I had to hop over this, swing over that, duck under, roll over logs until I couldn’t anymore. I heard voices from above and decided to cross the river to the other side and climb up where I heard the voices. Ah,… yes, a trail.

I passed by another station of horses and asked the guides which way, they all said, “take the trail path”. I continued on this trail and I kept going. I would stop for water and admiration of the view of the mountains that lead to the Sacred Falls. I kept wondering how was I suppose to get to the falls were? I realized I had to cross the river even though I was not instructed to. The path kept leading me further away from the river and the Sacred Falls. I kept going, staying on the path until 4 hours later, the path was now a run down path and appeared as if it hasn’t been traveled on for months.

I realized I should have been to the Sacred Waterfalls and back with the amount of time I spent already. I had to admit to myself that I was lost. I was avoiding the whole getting lost thing today but I managed it anyways. After all that enthusiasm and adventure, it was destination unreached, I was a bit disappointed. I comforted myself with, “there’s a good reason for this, I just don’t recognize it that’s all.”

I found a lovely spot to view the mountain scenery again and tried to retrace the steps in my head on how I could have missed the crossing of the river. I said to the Sacred Waterfall that I wasn't going to make it today. I would like to ceremonially do my circumambulating here and 3 half bows as if I was at the Sacred Falls. I aborted my mission and headed back.
As I was heading back, I noticed in the mountains the clouds were building thick and that there rain in the mountains. It was then that I realized, if I had not been lost, I would have found myself in cold rain and getting ill. Glad I was lost.

Everyone laughed at how I got lost on the only trail to the falls. I didn't mind. I really enjoyed the journey and was glad I was not in the cold icy rain. Having been lost, I got to see beautiful sceneries from the other side, it was magnificent.

Google Zha Dan

For dinner I went into the tent to join Chen and the Yens. The floor is just bare ground, the stove is just the open fire pit, ventilation was the door flap of the tent. We sat in smoke fumes from the open fire pit and tried to stay warm.

I decided to help myself and cook. I made fried mushrooms and chips. I needed some oil in my system. But I ended up not eating because everyone else ate them. The tent owner didn’t charge me for the food I made because I cooked for myself. Then the Yens ordered a full course meal. They ordered tomato egg dish for me and a onion vegetable dish for me. I ate a bit out of politeness but I didn’t continue because the vegetable dish had animal lard and onions in it and I didn’t eat eggs. They were pretty disappointed that I barely ate because they ordered them especially for me. I just told them I was full to duck out of it but I was hungry and I would rather be hungry than sick from eating the food that was not a part of my diet.

I did not smoke or drink. People at the table approved of my healthy habit. Mr. Yen tried to find a flaw in vegetarians all in good humor by attacking how vegetarians are just trying to eat like non-vegetarians with pretend meat or taste likes. It was a very typical non-vegetarian thing to do in front of a vegetarian, all to justify the validity of continual habit of eating in non-vegetarian way. Drinks were passed around to keep the body warm. I had considered gargling my mouth with the wine to de-flame my inflamed jaw but I didn’t think that was a good table manner thing to do. I drank murky hot water instead.

Mr. and Mrs Yen are both Sichuan natives from Chengdu. Mr. Yen might as well have been a famous gorgeous hot eligible in the current entertainment industry except he wasn’t eligible and he wasn’t in the entertainment industry. He is a buyer for the commercial industry and married to a beautiful sweet Sichuan wife.

Conversations at the dinner table included views on China and Taiwan issue. Yens voiced how modern young inner Chinese really don’t care too much about it. That people are more interested in peace and prosperity. People are interested in success of a government by action and change through success and not about over powering others. He said that if the Chinese government does a good job then the hearts of people will be won instead of inflicting power and force.

Both the Yens admit how the educational system all the way to end of high school did not encourage individual thinking or critical thinking. That you are really to take whatever is taught as truth. They both attributed their change in their minds to a University education and internet access. It really opened the doors for them. They learned to question and search for evidence on the Google engine.

The current fad is “Google Zha Dan”, translation, Google Bomb. What is a Google Bomb? It is freedom of posting information that reveals your truth. Why is it called bomb? Because a bomb creates destruction on a massive scale and truth can destroy lies and on the Google engine, it reaches masses..

On the subject of current modern living for young couples in Chengdu, Sichuan. Mr. Yen said his job gets him lots of perks because everyone lobbies for his interest so that he will influence his company to buy their products. “Who cooks?” Chen and I asked. The Yens said, “Whoever is currently out of job at the time,” The Yens said their major expense in their living is entertaining friends. They really like the company of friends over at their flat and this is where most of their pay check goes to. That such expenses are hard to avoid unless you choose to be unsocial and have no friends or connections with others.

Chen and Yen were a good pair of stand up comedians. I laughed the whole time until I was physically tired from laughing. I would say my meal for dinner was comic relief of laughters.

He Was Soleless

I came across Y3 and met Earth as hopped to the showers. Earth was on crutches and his ankles were completely swollen and in all colors.

The story goes, on his day off on the weekend, he went alone hiking on “Ice Runs Through It” or in Chinese “Bing Chuan”. He got lost and his shoes fell apart, the soles fell away. He was soleless and he ended up walking barefoot on ice. Because he was lost in the fog, he spent the night on the ice barefoot. He had not planned to be out that long so he only had light clothing on him and he did not bring any food or drinks. The next day when the weather cleared he was able to find his way back. By then both his feet were injured from the cold.

Earth insisted on not going to the doctors, he refused to do the 17 kilometers trek out and then taking the bus into the town of Xi Dan in search of a doctor. He had a terrible fever and he looked terrible. I gave Y3 medicine I had for inflammation, aches and pains. Y3 was somehow able to locate some antibiotics from one of the guests staying at the Guest House to give to her beloved Earth and hoped for the best. I guess the boots Y3 got for Earth as a surprise gift will be well applied now that he is shoeless.

A Rong Lao Shr Guest House

Chen took me to “A-Rong La0 Shr” Guest House. It means A-Rong Teacher’s Guest House. I checked into room #3. It turns out this room is the room next to Y3 and Earth’s room. We are separated by wooden planks with wide separation between the planks and holes in the planks too. Good sound proof and privacy? I think not. The window was designed in a way that it would never be able to completely shut. So there was a cold draft coming in from the windows. I found four blankets to sleep on for the night from the other rooms.

Chen made sure I was completely settled in and pretty much hung out with me the rest of the afternoon. We sat on the deck overlooking the majestic view and watched the sun coloring the mountain to golden orange and then purple blue as it retires for the day.

Engineers Everywhere Alike, Burnt Out

While on the trail I met a man named Chen from Taipei who is an burnt out young engineer. He is taking 2-3 months off from the professional work world to recharge his batteries. He said in his job there is no night and day or life beyond it. There is just the job. It is so competitive, if you want to keep your job you better do it better than others and put up with what others won’t. Chen is not worried about looking for another job when he gets back. He said the turn over rate is high and people are constantly coming and going.

At the end of the trail I came across Chen again he told me that he and Y3 did the trail in a little over 3 hours. I took 5 hours. He walked me to where Y3 was staying so that I would have housing for my stay here in the beautiful valley. We also met up with his Sichuan friends, a couple named Yen.

The Waddle Went "Snap"

On top of the mountain people put prayer flags all over and he flags have sutras, mantras, images on them.. People write their names on the flag for blessing. The material is rain proof but not weather proof. Sadly the old ones looked ghostly withering away on top of the mountain.

The last 10% was steep sharp down hill. Although it is exhausting to go upwards, it is painful to go downwards when the trail is as steep and sharp as this. I really took my time and caution. I did not want to get injured in anyway. A upon pity on me man traded his better walking stick for my pencil stick. In truth it wasn’t really a trade, he just forcefully grabbed mine from me and made me use his because he couldn't handle seeing me use the one I was holding. The moment he used it, it snapped.

The trail to YuBeng was uninteresting, felt like being in CA. Then at the end, the trail opens to a ….wow. Mountains covered in fall colors cascading in front of snowy peaks of various mountains. The valley has small barn farming layout with rural mud buildings. I learned that YuBeng has only 22+ families, one elementary school with 9 students and one teacher.

Waddle, Waddle

A Tibetan middle aged woman on her way down was teaching her fellow female friends about helping people and handed me one of her two walking sticks and said to her friends, "this is like helping someone". She passed me her pencil stick bamboo walking stick and kept the sturdy one for her own use. It waddled every time I used it. I had to learn how it waddled when it contacts the ground, how it waddled when I pressed on it, and how it waddled when I begin to lift it off the ground. The rest of my body had to readjust to the waddling in order to make it all work. I laughed and entertained myself with it the whole time I used it. Everyone who passed by shook their head and said to me, “that ain't gonna work.” It was an interesting experience to work with a waddling pencil thin walking stick.

Fantasizing Horses

Although the hike was incline for 4 hours and steep, all along the way, people were encouraging and supportive of trekking on foot instead of taking a horse. Honestly, when I was tired, I fantasized getting on a horse over and over again. Lots of horses with riders came by, I watched the horses, some of them were sick, some of them had arthritis, some of them had lung trouble, and some of them were just too old. Both the rider and the horse all looked like they were in pain. I decided it was a bad idea to fantasize ridding on a horse and was glad I was trekking on my own feet.

As I hiked, I felt fire shoot up from my kidneys and lungs. I then felt an inflammation grow on my lower right jaw. I think this was all due to very little rest I had in the past few days.

Watching the horses and riders pass by with their guides, I looked at the interaction of humans and horses. The horse does not need to be whipped or yelled at. I just don’t understand why humans treat animals as if they were really dumb and don’t understand.