Taroko

Day 19

I stayed out last night as long as I could until it rained. That drowned my beach sleeping plans and bench sleeping plans. I called it a night at 2am. It rained till 5:30am. I got up to walk on the beach 6:50am. The ocean felt great. I had fun looking at seashells. I didn’t go for a morning swim. I starred at the ocean for awhile and decided to can that idea. Felt good just to be out there on the beach. Watching the ocean before entering is one thing my surfing teacher drilled into our mind. It makes a difference between life and death. He would have us watch the ocean every morning before we enter. It was a good thing.

A-Hing paid for my breakfast. I had a vegetarian ZhongZi. I handed $300NT for my stay before the ferry ride. A-Hing was a decent person who is passionate about the ocean. Yesterday he showed me his camera and video gear. He designed his own water box to keep his gear dry. He saves money because it’s homemade and not name brand. He showed me his video clips from the Phillipeans last year. The experience with A-Hing reminded me of how much I love being in the water. I love to listen to my breath I love to listen to my heart beat. I love to listen to the ocean and all that is in it. I love to listen because I can hear in the water. I can hear within and I feel safe to do so.

I decided to run up the to the second floor of the ferry and I sat towards a window. A family of three sat behind me and a man in front. The family was doing the east coast drive, which is very pretty. I offered myself and money to ride with them and gave them the option of not taking me in. I thought I would take a chance. No takers.The next best thing was to take the bus with the gentleman in front of me to the train station. So we buddy up and found the no sign bus stop together. I told him the bus was only $23NT cheaper than the cab. If we missed the bus which comes every 20 minutes we could still get a cab. He had plans to spend a few hours in TaiTong and while waiting for his train back to central Taiwan. Instead he decided to go to Hualien with me and go shopping for omiyage and spend his extra few hours there. We both got standing ticket. We weren’t afraid, we had a plan, sit down at first available seat. He was a law graduate and is finishing the military service in three months and dreams of going to UC Berkeley Law School for his graduate program. He wanted to know how many Christian clubs there are on campus. I don’t know what denomination he is in English. I am unfamiliar with the terms in Chinese.
He handed me this classic caramel candy of which I haven't had since I was eight years old and one was enough for old times sake. I think I maxed out all my candy in take when I was in elementary school.


The women who sat next to me also had a standing ticket who had her eyes closed shut most of the ride. Just when I was about to close my eye to rest during the last trek of the train ride, all of sudden she jumps and opens her eyes with vigor and talks to me refusing to let me rest ignoring my shut eyes. She just kept on talking to me so I decided to not be rude and open my eyes to listen to her and all she had to say, her story.

This is the story she told me. All her life Mrs. Shiao’s been ill with this and that. Her husband was 13 years her senior and a career military service person. At the time when they met she made more money than he did by far. Her father didn’t like him because of his background being Cantonese and he had no living parents. But she liked how he didn’t have living parents for in-laws to be afraid of. It was the cultural urban legend that in-laws sit around getting their entertainment by abusing their daughter in-law. She also like that he cooked really good Cantonese food. She doesn’t know how to cook. She figured that since she has such bad ailing health, she probably wouldn’t live long and that the age difference is a good thing that way he wouldn’t be alone for long. It seems to me this sweet woman took all the negativities that others see and saw them as positives in her life. It took seven tries of marriage proposal with help from many others to finally get her father to agree to the marriage. Her parents owned a vegetable farm. Her husband would help at the farm whenever he was off duty. This helped to warm up her father. Now he has life time pay because he served as a military officer his whole life. They are now well to do. Her father of all the 5 son in-laws he has, finds her husband to be his favorite and is proud of him. Those who had more money in running businesses when they were younger and mistreated them now has financial challenges. Everything turns and changes. She didn’t think she would live long and she is now still alive. He made very little money then, now he is well to do. Mrs. Shao turned to say the last thing to me as she moved to exit for her stop, “in life look beyond the current immediate suffering, obstacle. Things turn and change in the future.” I am glad I opened my eyes and out of respect listened to her story and found gold she had to offer.

I bought my bus ticket to Taroko at the bus station that is to the right of the train station. Then I walked across the street to 7-11 and bought a bowl of instant noodle. I didn’t want to walk beyond the train station area to get food because it was hot and I had my luggage on me. I prefer to sit in the 7-11 enjoying my food in A/C.
I met Danny from Madrid who is an exchange student from England and Aziza from France who are both studying in TaiDa, Taipei University. I ended up helping them with their bus route and later on their housing and Taroko tour outline. They each spent $650NT without YHA card. They fell asleep the whole bus ride and missed the entire scenic ride from the park gates into Tien Xiang.

Upon entering the Taroko National Park there was no rain or mist, only sea of clouds “Yun Hai” over the mountains. I love the good chi in natural parks of Taiwan. I was dropped off by the bus driver at the TienXiang strip and hiked up to my hostel. In the lobby I met 2 couples in their retirement. One set from Cheng Hua named Shih who traveled in their car. And the other from TaiTung, Huangs, on their moped. The Huangs also had full on paddings on. They look like experienced travelers on two wheels that tour the country. I ended up hanging out with them for two hours just chatting. I do like times like this. I really lucked out on listening to their traveling experiences and I learned a lot. The Chens are Buddhist vegetarians. We had plans to go on a hike tonight but it was really dark by the time we were done chatting. Plus they had dinner planned with their housing arrangements at 7:30 so it wasn’t going to work. Plus they just arrived from soaking in the hotspring that is currently closed to the public due to last fall’s mountain slide. This hotspring is a natural hotspring along the river, two pools and free to the public. They said the water was really good. I think the fine is gianormous if you get caught.

Feels good here. Feels really good here in Taroko. I like the sound of the running water. Feels really good to listen to it. Dinner at the CYA center is $180NT per person included 5 dishes, 1 soup, 1 dish of fruit. What an excellent price. But I didn’t wan to eat that much for dinner so I passed. I wanted to eat my mochi and drink tea. So I walked to the strip and had stinky steamed tofu with kimchi. The kimchi is my favorite part.

The Shih and the Huangs are showing me a different way of living old age, continual discovery, adventure, live out your dreams, find a way. The value of time and how to experience quality of time and experience itself. Don’t just pass things by and move through them in motions, experience and deepen.

You can buy discount tickets for double beds at 2990NT at the Travel Fair in the fall for all the hostel chains but you buy 3 at a time. Still an awesome deal!

Tonight I sat in LiJing hotel in Taroko listening to indoor waterfall and live gujeng being played. A young lady named Jessica was playing and it was beautiful. What a treat. The hotel is air conditioned and it felt nice just to stay dry for a few hours. Felt really good. A person’s peace, calm, and contentment in joy can inspire other to do the same in their own life. This gujeng artist has done so for me. I feel inspired to play guqin, piano, and guitar.

The CYA center is packed with people dinning right now. I am on the first floor and the dinning hall is in the base floor that opens into a round atrium where my door faces. So I have come across to the Tian Xiang section to chill. I stink and I so need to do laundry. The lady is young and is really enjoying her performance. She has her pieces memorized. Nothing like listening to a musician who enjoys music and playing, the joy that comes forth is wonderful to listen to. I guess in cooking that is ingredient called secret spice.

Took a bus from FuGang warf to TaiDong train station $23NT
Train to Hualien $355NT standing ticket
Lunch: Instant Noodle at 7-11 $49NT
Bus from Hualien to Taroko into TienXiang $145NT
CYA Center hostel $550NT per night breakfast buffet includedDinner: Steamed stinky tofu stew and cabbage kimchi $30NT on the TienXiang strip.
Dessert: Hualien handmade Macha brown sugar mochi $20NT Taro $10NT from LaoTseng to the right of train station and to the left of the long distance bus station

Kenting and TaiDong

Day 18

The way shops look at crack of dawn like early mornings in Vegas. This was taken in front of the bus stop across the street from the gates of the Hostel. I was told there is a bus every 30 minutes and runs 24-7.

The security guard looked at me with sympathy this morning while he wished me safe travels and bid me good bye. He wished for me that I didn't travel alone that I am to bring people with me next time.

It isn't that I am a loner or lonely. I don't insist on traveling alone. I used to sit around an wait for people and let life pass me by feeling disappointed. Disappointed at myself for not doing anything about anything and letting myself to become disappointed and frustrated. There are many conditions that has to be set in place for each person in order for a trip to happen and for everyone to all be in sync, it can be difficult and hard to come by. So now I travel when conditions are right solo or not. I like it all.

I got onto the 6:25am bus hoping to get onto the PingDong train station to get onto the early train to arrive in TaiDong early enough to get onto the 11am ferry to LyuDao. I got onto the bus and asked the driver about the train station and time whether or not I would make my train. He told me I didn't have to go as far as PingDong, there is a closer train station at LiaoFang that I could go to TaiDong from there. I didn't know there was one. I looked at the train chart time table again and he was right. It is two train stations closer than PingDong. I am so glad he made that suggestion. I just missed it on the chart when I looked at it. Plus I didn't know where LiaoFang was geographically. So I had to get onto this particular bus in order to come across this bus driver who would help me point the way and tell me what I didn't know and didn't even know the question to ask.


I am at the LiaoFang train station. I asked for the next train to TaiDong. The attendant asked if I wanted the fast or the slow train. I said fast. The fast one cost more. Then he asked what time I wanted to get on to the train I asked for the soonest one. Well, being tired, early, unfamiliar and just not with it, I answered yes.

Yes was the right answer after all. It wasn't the train I asked for the fastest one but it was the next train and the slower train. This isn't the important part. Because of this train, I came across a travel guide, Mrs. Hsu who was leading a group of tourists from China whom I chatted with and asked about where to stay in LyuDao. She right away pulled out her phone and called her agency for her contact in LyuDao. When we got onto the train she stood next to my seat and called the contact in LyuDao and commanded him to take care of me and drive me around and shop for housing until I am pleased and content. Wow! All of this for me, a stranger, no business interactions,.... yes, it was so. I asked her how much I needed to pay this man for his service and she looked at me like I was speaking foreign language. Free! Really? I was confused. But what stuck me most was her command that wasn't over powering or oppressive, it was more like an edict you follow, no if and buts, this is how it is. She stood there next to me until she saw me make contact with this man named A-Hing, who wanted to help me reserve a boat ticket and I declined, not sure if I would make the boat ride not knowing how far the train station was from the wharf. Plus I wasn't sure if I would go with A-Hing. I thought I might think about it and call around for housing myself at the wharf just incase.

This all happened really fast. I would have missed all of this if I didn't go to Kenting and then decide to leave and leave early and get on the right bus with the right bus driver telling me which bus station to get on and then the ticketor making the decision to sell me this train ticket so I am on this platform at this time waiting for the same train and even sitting in the same cart. Look at all the things that had to come together so I can connect with A-Hing.
At the TaiDong train station you exit and look to your right for the bus stop to the wharf. I headed over there along with a young couple who were also going to the same dock looking for the same bus. The taxi sharks came around and wanted 100NT per person for the 12 minute ride to the wharf. The bus ride is 21NT. Both of us girls leaded on him for strength and support to send the sharks out of our sight of harassment. I told them if the bus doesn't come in time then we can always take the taxi as last resort. The bus came within minutes. We were dropped off on tiny streets and walked the rest of the way to the dock.

The 11:30am ferry was totally full. I missed my boat no more seats left and no standing tickets allowed. I was at the dock a little before 10am. The young couple had reserved tickets. How do you reserve tickets, do it through an agency or hotel or call. There is no fee to reserving tickets, just put your name down. Oh how I regretted not having A-Hing reserve a ticket for me. But what was worse was a group of 5 young adults traveling with a tour guide and the tour guide failed to make reservations and they all sat there like me disappointed. The tour guide must be new. She said she didn't think it would be full so she didn't bother to reserve.

As I sat in the ticket office, there was a vending stand who had a tape of sound bits to lour customers in on megaphone blasting everything and everyone in site and it was set on repeated loop. I had to put my earplugs on.



My ferry I sat by the door next to the motor. I just wanted to sit down and be convenient. I put on earplugs for my ride. I called A-Hing and decided to go with him. I told him I was wearing bright pink jacket and had a pack on my back and a pack on the front, can't miss me at all. He told me he would be wearing an army jacket standing next to his Toyota.