Last night I didn't go to bed till 12am and then another new roommate arrived at 2am. I didn't sleep from then on. Since I didn't fall back asleep I got up very early to head for the bus station. I waited for a local bus to take me to the long distance bus station, but it was still dark and the sun has yet to rise, I waited for a long time and the bus did not come. Another bus rider flagged down a bread mini van and we both got on. I made it to the bus station and had very watery soy milk at the stand outside the station. I think the best soy milk is in Taiwan, it can not be found anywhere else, rich, sweet, fragrant, the real thing. I slept the whole way on the bus swinging back and forth on the seat. It took 8 hours to get to Pan Jr Hua.
At the train station I bought the first train available to Emei. I had an hour before boarding and decided to run some errands. I hit the ATM machine just incase the ones in Emei didn't work or wasn't reading my card. I went fruit shopping and bought sweet tangerines. Why drink juice when you can eat the real thing. I went to a cell phone store to load up on my account. The young working professionals were very kind to help me. They didn't have to but they did. The young man took myself and did everything for me. He decided to help me because I looked like a foreign traveler and I was not familiar with up loading my phone for credits. I like this system that involves loading the account paid per minute instead of monthly contract. It's pretty cheap this way and there are no contracts. As a consumer, I can easily switch to a better company that is offering better service and cheaper rate at no penalty against me.
How does a cell phone work in China? You buy a phone, then a card, then buy minutes to load into the card account. It is important to figure out what kind of card to get. There are ones that only work within the province and there are country wide access cards. The proper card will mean great saving on minutes. You can buy minutes at any news stand, store, etc... Everything is versatile and there are plenty of companies to choose from. People in China are very hip and in with cell phone selection and accessories. They are not cheaper to buy in China. I have a lime green one made by a local company. Anyone who sees snares at it, and always asks me why I choose such a brand, and my response is, "it was the cheapest."
Showing posts with label Yunnan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yunnan. Show all posts
Instrument For Healing
I got up really early thinking I would pack to go to Sichuan with the other two men in the room. They were nice to wait for me. However, after packing, I decided to check out the possibility of taking a flight to Chengdu and parted with the two men and went back to bed. Maybe the real reason was that I was too tired and I really did not have a particular need to rush to anywhere. Everyone else in the room departed for their new destinations.
The second sleep was excellent, it was just what I needed and I woke up with a smile. I felt rested after that. I re-hung my damp laundry that did not fully dry over night and headed to reception to find out about reserving a ticket to Chengdu. The agency did not charge a service charge for this but needed my passport information so I was instructed to go to the agency with simple directions. As it turns out, I did not find the office and ended up at another one. I think I wasn't fully awake yet and my head was still a bit groggy. I bought a ticket for Chengdu and changed my mind right away because all the flights were evening flights and I would land after 11pm or later. I decided I needed fully wake up and also needed to eat something and then sort this all out afterwards.
I found a noodle shop over looking the water. I met four people from Sichuan who were all police officers on staff vacation. It all started with a camera. They wanted their group photos taken and I took it for them. They were very curious of the fact that I would travel alone. They found my stories interesting and took a picture of me to show to their friends and family when they go home. They told me to return my ticket and go by bus and train that it was much cheaper and I should save my money and spend it somewhere else.
I was convinced and after lunch went to return my ticket for a fee, I still saved a lot of money since the ticket was for 680 yuan and the train and bus would be less than 200 yuan all together. I then went to the bus station to buy my ticket for Pan Jr Hua where there is a train that goes to Emei. I did not pick the earliest bus, I choose 7:10am bus. This still gave me plenty of time to get to the train station since the first trains to Emei is between 5-6pm.
Back in the old town, I stopped in shops and marveled at crafts and silver jewelry. There are lots of guest houses with classical courtyards at every turn and corner. There are economical places to stay and there are exquisite places to stay. I stopped by a sign that said 5 yuan to put on Naxi traditional costume. I had the shop keeper take photos of me in it. Naxi tribe inhabited this land and its music is famous. I like the silver jewelry work. I didn't care for the music too much. It's a highlight here, a thing to do as a tourist to go to a Naxi concert. Tickets have to be bought in advance for 100 yuan. The arched bridges over intricate water canals and Song dynasty architecture are beautiful. People spend days here, just relaxing, eating food and drinking tea. There are lots of postcard spots to stop and marvel at, especially in the late afternoon sun through the trees, on the water, and reflecting off the paper window. It's a place to sit, drink tea and imagine doing poetry. I say imagine because there are tourist everywhere. With the warm weather in Yunnan, there is probably tourist all year round.
I came across the group of police officer friends from Sichuan in a tea shop. They invited me to tea and I joined them. It was perfect timing because I wanted to have tea and was looking for a spot to sit and have tea. I haven't properly sat down to have tea in 40 days. I dearly miss just sitting and having tea. I sat and had what I called bad tea. It cost 45 yuan to have a pot of tea. I think the attendant burnt the tea leaves on the first infusion. It is amazing how many people don't know how to take care of tea
Conversations during tea were about their families and running through travel safety in China, yup spoken like good police officers. They tell me the most trust worthy people in China are those in uniform because they have a set salary and their job is to provide information and is not interested in making money off of you. They invited me to the lake and travel with them via government arranged transportation and tour guide all the way back to Sichuan. I wasn't interested in going to the lake and I already bought a bus pass so I turned down their offer.
They were very nice people who gathered me in as a part of their group and I wanted some how to thank them for the tea and their company. Well, the opportunity came when they pulled out their camera. I told them I do photography for a living and did portrait sessions there for each and every one of them. I also showed them how to use their digital camera. I took care of each of them and I realized they had never had a portrait session before in their life like that. I can see it wasn't just fun but also very healing for them. Photography and the camera, can be used as an instrument for healing.
We all had fun at tea and continued to walk and shop. They invited me to dinner but I passed because I wanted to go to bed early to catch my morning bus and my diet is hard to feed. Well, it's not but it can be among non-vegetarians. Plus they were going to a restaurant outside of the old town and I would have to take a cab back late at night by myself and I would prefer not to.
Going to bed early was a fantasy. Back at the youth hostel the receptionist took a liking to hanging out with me and invited me to the lounge on my floor to hang out with some of her friends. She ended up telling me her sob story of her lost love life and her job etc.... It was somehow full of drama, it was too much for me. I was tired but I was interested in looking into the lives of young workers in youth hostels who worked long hours here in China. The pay at youth hostels are typical, people enjoy seeing westerners. Those who speak English can make western friends and enjoy their jobs. Those who don't get easily replaced by other workers who do and their circle of friendships remain among the high turn over rate staffs. I ended up teaching her English and introducing hot chocolate to them. I have found so far people are curious of hot chocolate here, will try but don't really drink it.
In my new room was a new roommate, a girl from Guang Dong who was headed to Zhong Dian and I chatted with her and shared my experience. The guy from Shanghai was there too who applied his certain skill of inflicting fear in the minds of single female travelers in hopes of picking one up and he applied it to the Guangdong girl. She fell for it, he got her convinced that it is too dangerous for her to travel alone and she would be lost without him. He convinced her to talk him into becoming her traveling companion and that it all appeared to be on her invitation and her idea. It was all very interesting to watch. I had told her early on for her to have her own mind and know what she wants and let people have their opinions.
Lijiang Lit by Red Lanterns
We got off the bus terminal and Jorn led the way into Lijiang Ancient Cultural Town. The sun was setting and we walked quickly through the twisty tiny streets, more like alley ways, filled with ancient architecture and decorated with wooden carvings. The streets were lit with warm red lanterns hanging over moon shaped archways and doors. I tried to keep up with Jorn as I looked around totally fascinated as we zipped through the streets. My head was pretty dizzy by the time I made it to the hostel. I could not remember where I was what and was totally disoriented. As it turns out Jorn's hotel is right across from mine.
This hostel had free internet and movie room. My first concern was laundry, access to washing my dusty stinky clothes and hot showers. The hot shower times were evening after people have checked in for the day and morning before people check out. Not having clarity in hot water times can result in very cold showers. My room was on the 4th floor, one bunk among the 9. It was the cheapest accommodation available and with ear plugs I didn't mind all the people in the room. The interesting part about the room set up is each bunk had its own curtain to close off the bunk. This little addition of separation made of sheet bedding material really made a big difference in the experience of privacy among the many.
In my room were two men who planned to travel to Sichuan by train. You would have to first take the first bus of the day to Pan Jr Hua for 57y, hop onto a local bus to the train station and then from there catch the last train to Emei at 5:10p for 130y on a hard sleeper top berth. These two men were heading out to Sichuan the next morning and said I could join them if I wanted to.
How interesting my trip has been, unplanned, no particular goal or direction, I don't even have a lonely planet guide, and I don't know how to search on the China Google engine "baidu", yet, the answers come just when I need it from where is my next destination and how to go about it, including where to sleep. This kind of traveling really scares some people, totally unorganized, destination free, ungoal oriented, without time constraint, completely about the process, the journey, the discoveries, no room for the categorizing of conventional travel success or failure.
On my 4th floor there is a beautiful deck and a lounge. The deck over looks the entire town of ancient architectural roofs lit by red lanterns. It was a beautiful and an amazing sight. I spent a lot of time looking at the view before going to bed that night. It was nostalgic and romantic in its own way.
My room was filled with Japanese tourists. They are heading to Vietnam by traveling south to the border, a country I would like to visit one day myself. They all spoke Japanese, they formed a group on the internet to do this trip together. This method I hear is quiet popular now, it is especially so in Hong Kong.
I dropped my bags off and set up my bed and organized the evening for myself. I wanted to walk around and see the town even though I was very tired, plus I desperately needed to locate an ATM that will take my card. I walked to the main eating area and checked out what was popular. I followed the river and walked over many arched bridges. The entire town was red in the evening lit by the red lanterns. I discovered hot pot or shabu-shabu was the most popular here. People don't actually come with their families. That this was a popular company, staff retreat, or vacation spot in China. Most sit down spots are catered to groups. I ended up with BBQ vegetable and rice cake kabobs for dinner. It is an easy way to get a variety of vegetables for my diet without extra additives. It is simply cooked over wood and dusted with salt and pepper.
On the way back to rest for the evening I passed by the cultural performance area where dancers performed cultural dances and sang tribal songs. Other parts where there were bars, also had karaoke and I think people who are drunk or maybe they weren't but just sing terribly should really spare everyone else's ears. Or maybe this is just the tactic of bar owners to get everyone else to drink more so they wouldn't mind the terrible singing and they are not going to remember a thing the next day anyway.
After returning to the hostel, I picked up my machine washed laundry to hang dry. I ended up befriending the entire female staff at the hostel. I don't know how this happened, or may be I just don't remember but that's how it worked out. They wanted to hang out with me and chat with me. We had to schedule times for different days during their off work hours to do so.
On the same floor a man from Shanghai chatted with me about going to Zhong Dian. He asked me what my plans were after Lijiang. I planned to go to Sichuan to Mt. Emei. He told me I shouldn't take the train or bus that it is all too difficult and confusing that I would get lost, etc.... He went on and on only to fill me up with fear, all to sell his pitch about how I need a man to travel with and he is the candidate and that I need to go to Zhong Dian with him because it's a good place to travel. He didn't understand that I just came from there or maybe he didn't care and just wanted some one to accompany him. I didn't fall prey.
After shower, I crawled into bed and realized I was in a bit of cultural shock or shock of some sort. I had just come from the quiet town of Yubeng where there are less than 20 families and no more than two dozen tourist, surrounded by pristine majestic wild mountain where the lives stock graze right in front of your door steps and the only noise is really the pigs squabbling, to a kind of Universal Studio type place full of people, tight alleys, and things to buy everywhere. I was in shock from sensory overload. Maybe I am just tired and in need of good rest that I haven't had in the last two weeks.
Food Stands in China
We both got up early for our bus, we were both on the dawn buses firsts for the day. Wang's bus was headed back to school. The school she volunteers at was started by her mentor, her teacher to provide free education to rural children who could not afford typical school tuition. She was so moved by this cause that even against her family's wishes for her to spend a year or more of her precious youth in working for free in serving a compassionate cause. Although time with Wang was short, I got to peak at different sides of her that was interesting and dynamic hidden in the presence of men.
My bus was heading back to Zhong Dian bus terminal so I can catch another bus to Lijiang. On the ride out, the bus driver stopped at White Horse Mountain vista point where there was a spot for burning of incense and prayer over looking an incredible view of snowy mountain peaks. He stopped to burn incense and made a prayer for a safe journey. He was a safe driver who respected, nature, and the mountain roads.
At the Deqen downtown long distance bus terminal, I bought a ticket to Lijiang. I was told there is a bus each hour and I picked the next bus available. I was hungry and decided to go to a noodle stand right outside of the terminal where all the cab and bus drivers go to eat. I left my bags with a mother and a daughter to watch, I didn't know their names but just decided to trust them.
Food stand stall in China is typically simple. There is usually a tent like covering over the cooking area. Sometimes this includes the seating area too, sometimes not. Tables range from plastic to simple tiny folding ones. As for seating, it is usually plastic stools, sometimes folding ones and they are usually tiny, for Asian female bottoms. It is comfortable enough for you to sit and finish their food but not enough to linger for hours. On the table, you can find disposable chopsticks individually packaged. As for napkins, rarely will you see them and when you do, it's not what you think it would look or feel like. Sometimes there is a roll of toilet paper on the table to be passed around but usually you would have to ask for them. Yes, like Beijing, you will not find soy sauce on the table. I understand now why my friends would bring their own soy sauce to China. The food is often served in a metal bowl or plate covered in plastic bag. Hot food and plastic bag, hum.... have to learn to ignore the possible melting plastic bag factor.
At the stand, I noticed it was full of workers who drove taxi or the bus. I was the only tourist. I ordered noodles with vegetables and leaving everything else out. The lady chef insisted that it was not going to be tasty and decided to add a few ingredients that I couldn't eat. I told her that was not what I ordered, she told me I can just pick it out of my food if I was so insistent. I remained quiet and she ended up deciding to redo my order but by then she was unhappy. While she cooked, I looked for a seat, I noticed every table was taken but there were empty seats. I moved to a corner table and the people there all got up and went to another table. I sat down at this vacant table, made vacant for me, only me. It was like a movie scene where people all moved away from you but refused to acknowledge so and when they notice you noticed they turned their backs on you and tuck their heads into their food pretending not to notice that you noticed. It was just like that. I was pondering why that was so. My food came and I thanked the chef and dug into it. She stood over me, towering me and demanded to know if it was good. Everyone stopped eating and waited for my response. I told her it was and she crinkled her brows and pulled her face back, "good?" she questioned in disbelief.
Maybe this group of working class was waiting for me, this little tourist to be a pain to them, to put them down, to give them trouble? Maybe this is how they have been treated and was expecting trouble from me and was ready for a fight as they united? I don't know, I just wanted to eat a bowl of noodles that would be my meal for the day and not get sick, that's all, very simple, really, truly it is just that simple.
Back at the terminal I went for my bags and the mother-daughter pair had already left for their bus. My bags were unattended and still there. I moved it closer to the entrance door next to a westerner. I asked him to watch my bags while I used the restroom in preparation for my next 4-5 hour journey to Lijiang. I can't remember his name but he is an English teacher on a vacation break. He teaches in Guangzhou and has a standard $700. a month after housing etc...
On the bus I sat next to Jorn from Great Lakes, Canada. He is a retired looking man who enjoys working as a satellite consultant for a company in Hong Kong for $200. per hour. He represents China in global conferences. What does he actually do? He is a satellite legal lawyer. He makes sure his clients have proper rights at proper times, with the satellite pointing at proper degrees etc... And when there is conflict that involves the possible loss of millions of dollars he makes sure he can prove legitimacy with technicalities. On the bus he talked the whole way, for hours.
During a stop on the way to Lijiang, there was a tribal woman dressed in all colors who was not shy about having pictures taken of her. She didn't collect money for pictures taken of her, which meant she dresses like that all day and every day. This part of China still has many aboriginal tribes. Even the Chinese loves to travel to this part of the country.
Not Good Enough For International Tour
Last night I went to bed at 8pm again. There were two European foreigners and the young locals sleeping a floor below me decided they were going to be cool by blasting a radio station that had rap pop music in English most of the night. I had ear plugs on and it didn't seem to work. It interesting to see on the streets and here and there how music and movies that really didn't make the cut in their native countries, some how made it out here as if something good that was good enough for international tour.
Pigs and Humans
I have had the chance to watch the live stocks here and the horses are pretty chilled like the sheep. The mountain goats are a bit goofy. The pigs are a riot, they are goofy and cute too but they fight and bicker and whine like crazy. They sure show lots of nasty attitude too. They reminded me of some humans I know.
Bed Time Stories
I got up this morning and decided to leave the valley and head for the hot spring guest house to pick up my internal backpack. After oatmeal for breakfast I came across Y3 who apologized for not being a better host in showing me around the valley. She told me that she would be leaving shortly too and implied we can leave together and head to Lijiang. However, I was packed and ready to head the trail and declined her offer to stay longer.
I enjoyed my time in heading down the trail. I bid my last good bye at the scenic views of the valley. This little haven is well preserved because the only way in is by foot or horses and it is not an easy hike to trek. I did not stop at any tea stalls; I wanted to keep my body warm so I kept on moving. It was nice to be on the outbound direction and looking at faces of inbound hikers panting and sweating. I understand now when I was hiking up; everyone who was hiking out had a glow in their face and a smile, who all spoke words of encouragement. Yup, it was torturous to do 16 kilometers on steep incline and the reward was worth all the work.
I came across Chen and his new friends Wang and others. Wang, a young college graduate is a volunteer teacher in rural Yunnan. We all shared a car out to Deqen. Chen was dropped off at FeLaiSi a monastery that over looks MeiLi Snow Mountain. He wanted to stay there because of the free internet, hot water for shower, and the golden sunrise on MeiLi Snow Mountain.
Our driver was a 28 years old going on 45. He said, not having been married at 20, that his chances of getting married now are much less. He wanted to go have yak butter tea with us and maybe increase his marriage eligibility with Wang but Wang was not interested.
Wang and I decided to pair up as roommates. She's from ZheJiang and teaches 2 and 4th grade. She and I don't hit it off, Wang showed much more interest in hitting it off with men. However we remained polite and courteous to each other. Wang is a light hearted person and we managed to get along alright. We found a guest house with beds for 20 yuan each. It was low season and the place was slow so we ended up with a top floor double room with a TV all to ourselves in stead of a dorm room set up. I set my bags down on a bed that leaned against the wall and Wang ended up with the window bed which she preferred so it worked out for the both of us. Wang says she needs direct fresh air flow from the windows in order to sleep. I need to be warm away from the window in order to sleep. This meant the window would be open all night and I would have to sleep fully covered except for my nose and mouth to breath. It was fine by me since I like fresh air myself.
We walked the streets of Deqen and saw children doing acrobatic performances for money. These children did not put on smiles for the TV since they were not being broadcasted. In fact they showed a real experience of the acrobatic, rubber flexibility moves, which was pain and difficulty. I wondered what happens to their bones later on in life, will these people have spinal joint troubles and will their movement be impaired at old age.
At the room Wang discovered that a part of her blanket smelled like urine. The receptionist would not allow the exchange for a new one or at least one that didn't smell like pee. So Wang's solution was to keep the window wide open but then compromised and agreed to only have it half open. It really did smell very bad. The fresh air did not end up being very fresh since our next door neighbors smoked like a chimney.
We spent a big part of the evening channel flipping going through all the possible talent competitions or star search. It was fun for me to see, it was new for me. Wang ended up telling me history stories to bring me up to speed on being a Chinese person who needs to know Chinese History. Well, I loved stories and have always enjoyed historical stories. It was a nice way to fall asleep listening to her stories.
I enjoyed my time in heading down the trail. I bid my last good bye at the scenic views of the valley. This little haven is well preserved because the only way in is by foot or horses and it is not an easy hike to trek. I did not stop at any tea stalls; I wanted to keep my body warm so I kept on moving. It was nice to be on the outbound direction and looking at faces of inbound hikers panting and sweating. I understand now when I was hiking up; everyone who was hiking out had a glow in their face and a smile, who all spoke words of encouragement. Yup, it was torturous to do 16 kilometers on steep incline and the reward was worth all the work.
I came across Chen and his new friends Wang and others. Wang, a young college graduate is a volunteer teacher in rural Yunnan. We all shared a car out to Deqen. Chen was dropped off at FeLaiSi a monastery that over looks MeiLi Snow Mountain. He wanted to stay there because of the free internet, hot water for shower, and the golden sunrise on MeiLi Snow Mountain.
Our driver was a 28 years old going on 45. He said, not having been married at 20, that his chances of getting married now are much less. He wanted to go have yak butter tea with us and maybe increase his marriage eligibility with Wang but Wang was not interested.
Wang and I decided to pair up as roommates. She's from ZheJiang and teaches 2 and 4th grade. She and I don't hit it off, Wang showed much more interest in hitting it off with men. However we remained polite and courteous to each other. Wang is a light hearted person and we managed to get along alright. We found a guest house with beds for 20 yuan each. It was low season and the place was slow so we ended up with a top floor double room with a TV all to ourselves in stead of a dorm room set up. I set my bags down on a bed that leaned against the wall and Wang ended up with the window bed which she preferred so it worked out for the both of us. Wang says she needs direct fresh air flow from the windows in order to sleep. I need to be warm away from the window in order to sleep. This meant the window would be open all night and I would have to sleep fully covered except for my nose and mouth to breath. It was fine by me since I like fresh air myself.
We walked the streets of Deqen and saw children doing acrobatic performances for money. These children did not put on smiles for the TV since they were not being broadcasted. In fact they showed a real experience of the acrobatic, rubber flexibility moves, which was pain and difficulty. I wondered what happens to their bones later on in life, will these people have spinal joint troubles and will their movement be impaired at old age.
At the room Wang discovered that a part of her blanket smelled like urine. The receptionist would not allow the exchange for a new one or at least one that didn't smell like pee. So Wang's solution was to keep the window wide open but then compromised and agreed to only have it half open. It really did smell very bad. The fresh air did not end up being very fresh since our next door neighbors smoked like a chimney.
We spent a big part of the evening channel flipping going through all the possible talent competitions or star search. It was fun for me to see, it was new for me. Wang ended up telling me history stories to bring me up to speed on being a Chinese person who needs to know Chinese History. Well, I loved stories and have always enjoyed historical stories. It was a nice way to fall asleep listening to her stories.
Going Home in Dreams
I dreamed this morning I went home to see my family. I only stayed for a flash because I had not finished my journey yet so I had to catch the next flight out to China. This was my third similar dream of going home on the first month of my journey.
Jr'ma La-nu Beautiful Goddess
Jr’ma La-nu means Beautiful Goddess. In the Tibetan culture all women have Jr-ma or La-nu following their name. All women have to be addressed as beautiful or goddess. I told my friend I would like to be simply addressed as Jr’ma La-nu. She laughed and didn’t object but mentioned to me that it’s not how it is done here. I told her it didn’t matter in my case because I am from somewhere else.
After lunch we went to her friend’s place for some lessons in Tibetan traditional dancing. I was taken into a Tibetan home. The entire house was busy with the work of toasting corn kernels. I was offered lunch number 3 but I passed because it may have been cooked in lard. Then I was offered toasted corn kernels by a 94 year old Tibetan elder man, he also offered whole baked potatoes. We ended up toasting corn kernels for a few hours and inhaled lots of smoke from the fire open fire in the center of the house without ventilation or chimney of any sort. To properly toast the kernels, a wooden large wooden stick was used to stir the kernel. I tried to toast but kept loosing kernels outside the pan into the fire and was politely removed from my post. Then we peeled corn husks and sorting corn for another hour or so.
The lady of the house was trying to be very hospitable by offering cigarettes to me. I passed and asked her when she started smoking and she said 26 when her mother passed away, at that time she also picked up drinking. Prior to adding such habits to her life, she claimed to be the best vocalist of YuBeng but such habits destroyed her vocal chords.
So finally we got to dance and when it came down to teaching me people were all shy and didn't do anything. So after hours sacrifice in inhaling smoke, and working for the food I ate, I didn't learn anything.
We sat on the deck and I watched the lady search for lice from her husband’s hair and he picked out ear wax from her ears. It reminded me of primal primate activities. Below the deck were lots of livestock. I watched their sons weave baskets, spoons, and sifters. I asked why the one baby piglet was deformed. He was crawling and could not stand. They told me the horse stomped on that particular piglet and so he can now only crawl.
We headed back and her father was unhappy that she hung out with me for the whole afternoon. She had to please her father by getting me to photograph her, her father, and the construction site to be used as PR for bringing in future business. I didn't enjoy that but I understood her position and did one photograph of her, her father, and the building all in one symbolically. A Rong offered me tea at the tent and then left. I got to drink some sort of random green tea and took off myself. While heading back to my room he insisted he needed to be a good host and chat with me. I insisted I didn't and needed to rest.
Pork Lard, Goat Lard Lunch
I officially rolled off the bed at 10:45am. In my opinion it was too late to go to sacred waterfalls and so I hung out with the construction manager's daughter instead. She's an Aries- Horse. She showed me how to start a fire in the pit. I ended up reciting while I watched for her prepare lunch. I watched how she oiled the pan to with goat lard and knew I couldn't eat it. I watched how she stir-fried rice with pork lard and knew I couldn't eat that too. I watch how she made hash browns with vegetable oil and know I could have that. That was all I ate.
Her father was the construction manager overseeing the additional building being built for tourist. She said she would teach me Tibetan dancing after lunch and we would go to her friend's place. Her father was someone who was suspicious of me or anyone foreign and did not warm up to me. From the complexion in his face and the color and luster in his eyes, he looked like someone who drank too much.
For the meal we sat in their worker’s wooden hut. It was built on open dirt floor. The shower was an open hose that ran onto an open area without partitions. The sleeping area was on top of planks. Everyone slept on that together including my friend, the only girl. There was only enough room for each person to lay neatly right next to each other like sardines. The blankets were all wet and the pillows too. They were wet from the rain and dew dropped in through the cracks. The hut was poorly constructed. I wondered how these people stayed warm at night in damp blankets and pillows with the chilly icy wind blowing in through the wide cracks from the wooden planks. I wondered how much mildew was in the stuffing of the blankets and pillows. I wondered how they continue to live this way when they really didn’t have to. Since they were construction workers, it would be easy to improve their living standard on this job site. Then I remembered the workers on the Great Wall who too slept on the Great Wall in the open in rain and wind. Maybe this is how it is in this part of the world for the construction class.
I was offered a second lunch by Y3 and the school principal, A Rong who was also the owner of the Guest House. It was kabotcha squash stir-fry, I could have that and it was done with vegetable oil. During lunch the conversation got out of hand. A Rong spoke as if he was drunk and talked a whole lot of crap. It really lost respect for him. He expressed his world views on relationships; how a man leans on a wife at home and then out in the world leans on girlfriends. I think he was trying to discourage the union of Y3 and Earth. Since Earth is his only teacher for the only school and he is a volunteer, he had an invested interest to keep Earth around as long as possible. After that conversation, Y3 decided she would head back to Lijiang sooner than her expected departure date.
Why Would I Want to do Anything Else Besids This?
I saw Yens on the way back, they had just arrived from Ice Lake and was switching horses to head back to De Ching the same night. They looked terrible. They looked really tired. They looked like they had a rough ride. Well, it was a rough trail to begin with regardless if you were on a horse or not. It was already 3pm, they hopped onto another horse to help them up the first 10% inclined and dash for the rest 90%. I worried for them. I really didn't think his wife could dash down the mountain. I worried they'd be stuck in the dark with out flash light because it broke. I worried they'd be rained on if they didn't dash. But they were determined to head out.
I also saw Chen who asked me what my plans were and I told him I just came back from a 6 hour hike and I was not interested in hiking for the rest of the day. I just wanted some food, water, and rest. In fact, I haven’t really slept in days. Chen on his own headed for Lower YuBeng Valley where the head trail for the Sacred Waterfalls was. I told him it was beautiful there and much nicer. He wanted to sleep there tonight so he can have a head start for the falls the next day. I really need a good night sleep. I wanted to do my Buddhist practice of reciting and meditating. I wanted to just sit and read. I wanted down time. I wanted a shower but all I’ve got was a pan and cold water.
I went and got a new room from the owner who put me above the residence room on the second floor. Below the residence floor was the open barn floor filled with live stock of pigs, horses, chicken, etc. So technically I was on the third floor. This room was across the construction sight for the new Guest House. It sure was noisy with the chainsaw and all.
I rested and kept warm because I have been soaking wet in my sweat and the body cool down is fast so I blanket myself tight to not catch a cold during cool down and listened to the music from the rain outside. Glad I was not on the trail with Chen in the rain. The rain I saw in the falls had traveled out.
I sat and meditated. It felt nice. I always find it odd this way. When I meditate, I ask myself, “Why would I want to do anything else besides this, this is great.” When I chant, I tell myself, “I just want to chant for the rest of my life, this is wonderful.” When I bow, I tell myself, “I just want to keep bowing, this is good for me.” When I listen to the Dharma, I tell myself, “I just want to keep listening to the Dharma always, why would I want to do anything else?” When I recite mantra, I tell myself, “I just want to recite all the time even in my sleep. This is the best. Why would I want to do anything else?” Then when I drink excellent tea, I tell myself, “This is the best, I can drink tea the rest of my life like this.” Then when I come across my pretty cloths, I tell myself, “Just beautiful, I just want to wear these clothes and do everything in them.”
I decided the food sucked in the tent and ate whatever snacks I hiked in with me. I ate 3 dates, 20 pistachios, 3 tiny sheets of nori, 2 crackers, and an apple from the apple tree outside.
I also saw Chen who asked me what my plans were and I told him I just came back from a 6 hour hike and I was not interested in hiking for the rest of the day. I just wanted some food, water, and rest. In fact, I haven’t really slept in days. Chen on his own headed for Lower YuBeng Valley where the head trail for the Sacred Waterfalls was. I told him it was beautiful there and much nicer. He wanted to sleep there tonight so he can have a head start for the falls the next day. I really need a good night sleep. I wanted to do my Buddhist practice of reciting and meditating. I wanted to just sit and read. I wanted down time. I wanted a shower but all I’ve got was a pan and cold water.
I went and got a new room from the owner who put me above the residence room on the second floor. Below the residence floor was the open barn floor filled with live stock of pigs, horses, chicken, etc. So technically I was on the third floor. This room was across the construction sight for the new Guest House. It sure was noisy with the chainsaw and all.
I rested and kept warm because I have been soaking wet in my sweat and the body cool down is fast so I blanket myself tight to not catch a cold during cool down and listened to the music from the rain outside. Glad I was not on the trail with Chen in the rain. The rain I saw in the falls had traveled out.
I sat and meditated. It felt nice. I always find it odd this way. When I meditate, I ask myself, “Why would I want to do anything else besides this, this is great.” When I chant, I tell myself, “I just want to chant for the rest of my life, this is wonderful.” When I bow, I tell myself, “I just want to keep bowing, this is good for me.” When I listen to the Dharma, I tell myself, “I just want to keep listening to the Dharma always, why would I want to do anything else?” When I recite mantra, I tell myself, “I just want to recite all the time even in my sleep. This is the best. Why would I want to do anything else?” Then when I drink excellent tea, I tell myself, “This is the best, I can drink tea the rest of my life like this.” Then when I come across my pretty cloths, I tell myself, “Just beautiful, I just want to wear these clothes and do everything in them.”
I decided the food sucked in the tent and ate whatever snacks I hiked in with me. I ate 3 dates, 20 pistachios, 3 tiny sheets of nori, 2 crackers, and an apple from the apple tree outside.
Stay On the Only Path
Had very little rest last night. Y3 and Earth partied till late and the door slams from the others who got up early to head out kept waking me up. Oh yeah, the chilly wind coming in from the only window in the room that won't shut also made it difficult to sleep during the night
I finally got up made myself a cup of oatmeal and ordered noodles with cabbage. The noodles were soggy and gross, very gross. I knew it would be the only meal I would have for the day trip so I ate it. It took me a long time to eat it because it was so gross.
I was encouraged to go to Ice Lake with everyone else. But I learned that to go to Ice Lake it is easy to get lost on my own and that I better to go on horse back because there are guides and the trails are rough. So I ended up picking the easier path of Sacred Waterfall.
I got directions from people, they all told me to, "follow the river". Yes those were the directions and I did. No one told me to cross the river, so I didn't. I kept walking along the river except there were no trails. I had to hop over this, swing over that, duck under, roll over logs until I couldn’t anymore. I heard voices from above and decided to cross the river to the other side and climb up where I heard the voices. Ah,… yes, a trail.
I passed by another station of horses and asked the guides which way, they all said, “take the trail path”. I continued on this trail and I kept going. I would stop for water and admiration of the view of the mountains that lead to the Sacred Falls. I kept wondering how was I suppose to get to the falls were? I realized I had to cross the river even though I was not instructed to. The path kept leading me further away from the river and the Sacred Falls. I kept going, staying on the path until 4 hours later, the path was now a run down path and appeared as if it hasn’t been traveled on for months.
I realized I should have been to the Sacred Waterfalls and back with the amount of time I spent already. I had to admit to myself that I was lost. I was avoiding the whole getting lost thing today but I managed it anyways. After all that enthusiasm and adventure, it was destination unreached, I was a bit disappointed. I comforted myself with, “there’s a good reason for this, I just don’t recognize it that’s all.”
I found a lovely spot to view the mountain scenery again and tried to retrace the steps in my head on how I could have missed the crossing of the river. I said to the Sacred Waterfall that I wasn't going to make it today. I would like to ceremonially do my circumambulating here and 3 half bows as if I was at the Sacred Falls. I aborted my mission and headed back.
As I was heading back, I noticed in the mountains the clouds were building thick and that there rain in the mountains. It was then that I realized, if I had not been lost, I would have found myself in cold rain and getting ill. Glad I was lost.
Everyone laughed at how I got lost on the only trail to the falls. I didn't mind. I really enjoyed the journey and was glad I was not in the cold icy rain. Having been lost, I got to see beautiful sceneries from the other side, it was magnificent.
Google Zha Dan
For dinner I went into the tent to join Chen and the Yens. The floor is just bare ground, the stove is just the open fire pit, ventilation was the door flap of the tent. We sat in smoke fumes from the open fire pit and tried to stay warm.
I decided to help myself and cook. I made fried mushrooms and chips. I needed some oil in my system. But I ended up not eating because everyone else ate them. The tent owner didn’t charge me for the food I made because I cooked for myself. Then the Yens ordered a full course meal. They ordered tomato egg dish for me and a onion vegetable dish for me. I ate a bit out of politeness but I didn’t continue because the vegetable dish had animal lard and onions in it and I didn’t eat eggs. They were pretty disappointed that I barely ate because they ordered them especially for me. I just told them I was full to duck out of it but I was hungry and I would rather be hungry than sick from eating the food that was not a part of my diet.
I did not smoke or drink. People at the table approved of my healthy habit. Mr. Yen tried to find a flaw in vegetarians all in good humor by attacking how vegetarians are just trying to eat like non-vegetarians with pretend meat or taste likes. It was a very typical non-vegetarian thing to do in front of a vegetarian, all to justify the validity of continual habit of eating in non-vegetarian way. Drinks were passed around to keep the body warm. I had considered gargling my mouth with the wine to de-flame my inflamed jaw but I didn’t think that was a good table manner thing to do. I drank murky hot water instead.
Mr. and Mrs Yen are both Sichuan natives from Chengdu. Mr. Yen might as well have been a famous gorgeous hot eligible in the current entertainment industry except he wasn’t eligible and he wasn’t in the entertainment industry. He is a buyer for the commercial industry and married to a beautiful sweet Sichuan wife.
Conversations at the dinner table included views on China and Taiwan issue. Yens voiced how modern young inner Chinese really don’t care too much about it. That people are more interested in peace and prosperity. People are interested in success of a government by action and change through success and not about over powering others. He said that if the Chinese government does a good job then the hearts of people will be won instead of inflicting power and force.
Both the Yens admit how the educational system all the way to end of high school did not encourage individual thinking or critical thinking. That you are really to take whatever is taught as truth. They both attributed their change in their minds to a University education and internet access. It really opened the doors for them. They learned to question and search for evidence on the Google engine.
The current fad is “Google Zha Dan”, translation, Google Bomb. What is a Google Bomb? It is freedom of posting information that reveals your truth. Why is it called bomb? Because a bomb creates destruction on a massive scale and truth can destroy lies and on the Google engine, it reaches masses..
On the subject of current modern living for young couples in Chengdu, Sichuan. Mr. Yen said his job gets him lots of perks because everyone lobbies for his interest so that he will influence his company to buy their products. “Who cooks?” Chen and I asked. The Yens said, “Whoever is currently out of job at the time,” The Yens said their major expense in their living is entertaining friends. They really like the company of friends over at their flat and this is where most of their pay check goes to. That such expenses are hard to avoid unless you choose to be unsocial and have no friends or connections with others.
Chen and Yen were a good pair of stand up comedians. I laughed the whole time until I was physically tired from laughing. I would say my meal for dinner was comic relief of laughters.
I decided to help myself and cook. I made fried mushrooms and chips. I needed some oil in my system. But I ended up not eating because everyone else ate them. The tent owner didn’t charge me for the food I made because I cooked for myself. Then the Yens ordered a full course meal. They ordered tomato egg dish for me and a onion vegetable dish for me. I ate a bit out of politeness but I didn’t continue because the vegetable dish had animal lard and onions in it and I didn’t eat eggs. They were pretty disappointed that I barely ate because they ordered them especially for me. I just told them I was full to duck out of it but I was hungry and I would rather be hungry than sick from eating the food that was not a part of my diet.
I did not smoke or drink. People at the table approved of my healthy habit. Mr. Yen tried to find a flaw in vegetarians all in good humor by attacking how vegetarians are just trying to eat like non-vegetarians with pretend meat or taste likes. It was a very typical non-vegetarian thing to do in front of a vegetarian, all to justify the validity of continual habit of eating in non-vegetarian way. Drinks were passed around to keep the body warm. I had considered gargling my mouth with the wine to de-flame my inflamed jaw but I didn’t think that was a good table manner thing to do. I drank murky hot water instead.
Mr. and Mrs Yen are both Sichuan natives from Chengdu. Mr. Yen might as well have been a famous gorgeous hot eligible in the current entertainment industry except he wasn’t eligible and he wasn’t in the entertainment industry. He is a buyer for the commercial industry and married to a beautiful sweet Sichuan wife.
Conversations at the dinner table included views on China and Taiwan issue. Yens voiced how modern young inner Chinese really don’t care too much about it. That people are more interested in peace and prosperity. People are interested in success of a government by action and change through success and not about over powering others. He said that if the Chinese government does a good job then the hearts of people will be won instead of inflicting power and force.
Both the Yens admit how the educational system all the way to end of high school did not encourage individual thinking or critical thinking. That you are really to take whatever is taught as truth. They both attributed their change in their minds to a University education and internet access. It really opened the doors for them. They learned to question and search for evidence on the Google engine.
The current fad is “Google Zha Dan”, translation, Google Bomb. What is a Google Bomb? It is freedom of posting information that reveals your truth. Why is it called bomb? Because a bomb creates destruction on a massive scale and truth can destroy lies and on the Google engine, it reaches masses..
On the subject of current modern living for young couples in Chengdu, Sichuan. Mr. Yen said his job gets him lots of perks because everyone lobbies for his interest so that he will influence his company to buy their products. “Who cooks?” Chen and I asked. The Yens said, “Whoever is currently out of job at the time,” The Yens said their major expense in their living is entertaining friends. They really like the company of friends over at their flat and this is where most of their pay check goes to. That such expenses are hard to avoid unless you choose to be unsocial and have no friends or connections with others.
Chen and Yen were a good pair of stand up comedians. I laughed the whole time until I was physically tired from laughing. I would say my meal for dinner was comic relief of laughters.
He Was Soleless
I came across Y3 and met Earth as hopped to the showers. Earth was on crutches and his ankles were completely swollen and in all colors.
The story goes, on his day off on the weekend, he went alone hiking on “Ice Runs Through It” or in Chinese “Bing Chuan”. He got lost and his shoes fell apart, the soles fell away. He was soleless and he ended up walking barefoot on ice. Because he was lost in the fog, he spent the night on the ice barefoot. He had not planned to be out that long so he only had light clothing on him and he did not bring any food or drinks. The next day when the weather cleared he was able to find his way back. By then both his feet were injured from the cold.
Earth insisted on not going to the doctors, he refused to do the 17 kilometers trek out and then taking the bus into the town of Xi Dan in search of a doctor. He had a terrible fever and he looked terrible. I gave Y3 medicine I had for inflammation, aches and pains. Y3 was somehow able to locate some antibiotics from one of the guests staying at the Guest House to give to her beloved Earth and hoped for the best. I guess the boots Y3 got for Earth as a surprise gift will be well applied now that he is shoeless.
The story goes, on his day off on the weekend, he went alone hiking on “Ice Runs Through It” or in Chinese “Bing Chuan”. He got lost and his shoes fell apart, the soles fell away. He was soleless and he ended up walking barefoot on ice. Because he was lost in the fog, he spent the night on the ice barefoot. He had not planned to be out that long so he only had light clothing on him and he did not bring any food or drinks. The next day when the weather cleared he was able to find his way back. By then both his feet were injured from the cold.
Earth insisted on not going to the doctors, he refused to do the 17 kilometers trek out and then taking the bus into the town of Xi Dan in search of a doctor. He had a terrible fever and he looked terrible. I gave Y3 medicine I had for inflammation, aches and pains. Y3 was somehow able to locate some antibiotics from one of the guests staying at the Guest House to give to her beloved Earth and hoped for the best. I guess the boots Y3 got for Earth as a surprise gift will be well applied now that he is shoeless.
A Rong Lao Shr Guest House
Chen took me to “A-Rong La0 Shr” Guest House. It means A-Rong Teacher’s Guest House. I checked into room #3. It turns out this room is the room next to Y3 and Earth’s room. We are separated by wooden planks with wide separation between the planks and holes in the planks too. Good sound proof and privacy? I think not. The window was designed in a way that it would never be able to completely shut. So there was a cold draft coming in from the windows. I found four blankets to sleep on for the night from the other rooms.
Chen made sure I was completely settled in and pretty much hung out with me the rest of the afternoon. We sat on the deck overlooking the majestic view and watched the sun coloring the mountain to golden orange and then purple blue as it retires for the day.
Chen made sure I was completely settled in and pretty much hung out with me the rest of the afternoon. We sat on the deck overlooking the majestic view and watched the sun coloring the mountain to golden orange and then purple blue as it retires for the day.
Engineers Everywhere Alike, Burnt Out
While on the trail I met a man named Chen from Taipei who is an burnt out young engineer. He is taking 2-3 months off from the professional work world to recharge his batteries. He said in his job there is no night and day or life beyond it. There is just the job. It is so competitive, if you want to keep your job you better do it better than others and put up with what others won’t. Chen is not worried about looking for another job when he gets back. He said the turn over rate is high and people are constantly coming and going.
At the end of the trail I came across Chen again he told me that he and Y3 did the trail in a little over 3 hours. I took 5 hours. He walked me to where Y3 was staying so that I would have housing for my stay here in the beautiful valley. We also met up with his Sichuan friends, a couple named Yen.
At the end of the trail I came across Chen again he told me that he and Y3 did the trail in a little over 3 hours. I took 5 hours. He walked me to where Y3 was staying so that I would have housing for my stay here in the beautiful valley. We also met up with his Sichuan friends, a couple named Yen.
The Waddle Went "Snap"
On top of the mountain people put prayer flags all over and he flags have sutras, mantras, images on them.. People write their names on the flag for blessing. The material is rain proof but not weather proof. Sadly the old ones looked ghostly withering away on top of the mountain.
The last 10% was steep sharp down hill. Although it is exhausting to go upwards, it is painful to go downwards when the trail is as steep and sharp as this. I really took my time and caution. I did not want to get injured in anyway. A upon pity on me man traded his better walking stick for my pencil stick. In truth it wasn’t really a trade, he just forcefully grabbed mine from me and made me use his because he couldn't handle seeing me use the one I was holding. The moment he used it, it snapped.
The trail to YuBeng was uninteresting, felt like being in CA. Then at the end, the trail opens to a ….wow. Mountains covered in fall colors cascading in front of snowy peaks of various mountains. The valley has small barn farming layout with rural mud buildings. I learned that YuBeng has only 22+ families, one elementary school with 9 students and one teacher.
Waddle, Waddle
A Tibetan middle aged woman on her way down was teaching her fellow female friends about helping people and handed me one of her two walking sticks and said to her friends, "this is like helping someone". She passed me her pencil stick bamboo walking stick and kept the sturdy one for her own use. It waddled every time I used it. I had to learn how it waddled when it contacts the ground, how it waddled when I pressed on it, and how it waddled when I begin to lift it off the ground. The rest of my body had to readjust to the waddling in order to make it all work. I laughed and entertained myself with it the whole time I used it. Everyone who passed by shook their head and said to me, “that ain't gonna work.” It was an interesting experience to work with a waddling pencil thin walking stick.
Fantasizing Horses
Although the hike was incline for 4 hours and steep, all along the way, people were encouraging and supportive of trekking on foot instead of taking a horse. Honestly, when I was tired, I fantasized getting on a horse over and over again. Lots of horses with riders came by, I watched the horses, some of them were sick, some of them had arthritis, some of them had lung trouble, and some of them were just too old. Both the rider and the horse all looked like they were in pain. I decided it was a bad idea to fantasize ridding on a horse and was glad I was trekking on my own feet.
As I hiked, I felt fire shoot up from my kidneys and lungs. I then felt an inflammation grow on my lower right jaw. I think this was all due to very little rest I had in the past few days.
Watching the horses and riders pass by with their guides, I looked at the interaction of humans and horses. The horse does not need to be whipped or yelled at. I just don’t understand why humans treat animals as if they were really dumb and don’t understand.
As I hiked, I felt fire shoot up from my kidneys and lungs. I then felt an inflammation grow on my lower right jaw. I think this was all due to very little rest I had in the past few days.
Watching the horses and riders pass by with their guides, I looked at the interaction of humans and horses. The horse does not need to be whipped or yelled at. I just don’t understand why humans treat animals as if they were really dumb and don’t understand.
Fly the Trail on Hormone Fuel
Last night, the ladies decided they wanted to sleep with the light on. So they left the light on like the Zhaos. Then for whatever reason the Tibetan ladies got up middle of the night rumbling all over the place and got themselves ready as if to leave but didn't. All that movement and nothing, they laid back into bed to rest. I had very little rest at night since I hung around the Zhaos and now.
I got up for the day and Y3 ordered egg noodle soup with onions for me. She forgot that I didn’t eat onions or eggs. With my past experience, I knew how important it is to have breakfast before a full day of hike, it prevents nausea, muscles cramps, dehydration and a whole bunch of other things. I had to reorder another noodle. It turns out that she got to digest her food for 30minutes and I didn't. I ate and Y3 was ready for the trail we couldn’t wait another 30 minutes before I digest my food a bit. This was bad for the body, not a good idea and I knew this ahead of time, it is something I would never do but did and would never repeat again because I knew better.
It was 17 kilometers trail and 90% of it was incline, straight incline all the way to the last 10%. Y3 was driven by hormones and would fly if given the chance. She had been waiting all month to see Earth and any second apart felt like eternity to her. So I told her to go ahead of me and take off because she wouldn't let me stop and rest at all. So we parted early, thank goodness. I like going at my own pace and stopping to take a sip of water and checking out nature.
I got up for the day and Y3 ordered egg noodle soup with onions for me. She forgot that I didn’t eat onions or eggs. With my past experience, I knew how important it is to have breakfast before a full day of hike, it prevents nausea, muscles cramps, dehydration and a whole bunch of other things. I had to reorder another noodle. It turns out that she got to digest her food for 30minutes and I didn't. I ate and Y3 was ready for the trail we couldn’t wait another 30 minutes before I digest my food a bit. This was bad for the body, not a good idea and I knew this ahead of time, it is something I would never do but did and would never repeat again because I knew better.
It was 17 kilometers trail and 90% of it was incline, straight incline all the way to the last 10%. Y3 was driven by hormones and would fly if given the chance. She had been waiting all month to see Earth and any second apart felt like eternity to her. So I told her to go ahead of me and take off because she wouldn't let me stop and rest at all. So we parted early, thank goodness. I like going at my own pace and stopping to take a sip of water and checking out nature.
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