Showing posts with label Zhong Dian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zhong Dian. Show all posts

Food Stands in China


We both got up early for our bus, we were both on the dawn buses firsts for the day. Wang's bus was headed back to school. The school she volunteers at was started by her mentor, her teacher to provide free education to rural children who could not afford typical school tuition. She was so moved by this cause that even against her family's wishes for her to spend a year or more of her precious youth in working for free in serving a compassionate cause. Although time with Wang was short, I got to peak at different sides of her that was interesting and dynamic hidden in the presence of men.

My bus was heading back to Zhong Dian bus terminal so I can catch another bus to Lijiang. On the ride out, the bus driver stopped at White Horse Mountain vista point where there was a spot for burning of incense and prayer over looking an incredible view of snowy mountain peaks. He stopped to burn incense and made a prayer for a safe journey. He was a safe driver who respected, nature, and the mountain roads.

At the Deqen downtown long distance bus terminal, I bought a ticket to Lijiang. I was told there is a bus each hour and I picked the next bus available. I was hungry and decided to go to a noodle stand right outside of the terminal where all the cab and bus drivers go to eat. I left my bags with a mother and a daughter to watch, I didn't know their names but just decided to trust them.

Food stand stall in China is typically simple. There is usually a tent like covering over the cooking area. Sometimes this includes the seating area too, sometimes not. Tables range from plastic to simple tiny folding ones. As for seating, it is usually plastic stools, sometimes folding ones and they are usually tiny, for Asian female bottoms. It is comfortable enough for you to sit and finish their food but not enough to linger for hours. On the table, you can find disposable chopsticks individually packaged. As for napkins, rarely will you see them and when you do, it's not what you think it would look or feel like. Sometimes there is a roll of toilet paper on the table to be passed around but usually you would have to ask for them. Yes, like Beijing, you will not find soy sauce on the table. I understand now why my friends would bring their own soy sauce to China. The food is often served in a metal bowl or plate covered in plastic bag. Hot food and plastic bag, hum.... have to learn to ignore the possible melting plastic bag factor.

At the stand, I noticed it was full of workers who drove taxi or the bus. I was the only tourist. I ordered noodles with vegetables and leaving everything else out. The lady chef insisted that it was not going to be tasty and decided to add a few ingredients that I couldn't eat. I told her that was not what I ordered, she told me I can just pick it out of my food if I was so insistent. I remained quiet and she ended up deciding to redo my order but by then she was unhappy. While she cooked, I looked for a seat, I noticed every table was taken but there were empty seats. I moved to a corner table and the people there all got up and went to another table. I sat down at this vacant table, made vacant for me, only me. It was like a movie scene where people all moved away from you but refused to acknowledge so and when they notice you noticed they turned their backs on you and tuck their heads into their food pretending not to notice that you noticed. It was just like that. I was pondering why that was so. My food came and I thanked the chef and dug into it. She stood over me, towering me and demanded to know if it was good. Everyone stopped eating and waited for my response. I told her it was and she crinkled her brows and pulled her face back, "good?" she questioned in disbelief.

Maybe this group of working class was waiting for me, this little tourist to be a pain to them, to put them down, to give them trouble? Maybe this is how they have been treated and was expecting trouble from me and was ready for a fight as they united? I don't know, I just wanted to eat a bowl of noodles that would be my meal for the day and not get sick, that's all, very simple, really, truly it is just that simple.

Back at the terminal I went for my bags and the mother-daughter pair had already left for their bus. My bags were unattended and still there. I moved it closer to the entrance door next to a westerner. I asked him to watch my bags while I used the restroom in preparation for my next 4-5 hour journey to Lijiang. I can't remember his name but he is an English teacher on a vacation break. He teaches in Guangzhou and has a standard $700. a month after housing etc...

On the bus I sat next to Jorn from Great Lakes, Canada. He is a retired looking man who enjoys working as a satellite consultant for a company in Hong Kong for $200. per hour. He represents China in global conferences. What does he actually do? He is a satellite legal lawyer. He makes sure his clients have proper rights at proper times, with the satellite pointing at proper degrees etc... And when there is conflict that involves the possible loss of millions of dollars he makes sure he can prove legitimacy with technicalities. On the bus he talked the whole way, for hours.

During a stop on the way to Lijiang, there was a tribal woman dressed in all colors who was not shy about having pictures taken of her. She didn't collect money for pictures taken of her, which meant she dresses like that all day and every day. This part of China still has many aboriginal tribes. Even the Chinese loves to travel to this part of the country.

"Back Wash Hot Spring," She Said




I felt great after the hike and the Zhaos almost passed out in the car. The driver commented on how exercise was good for the health implying how the Zhaos need more health workout. I think the Zhaos were just very tired and as a result has been very unpleasant to be around.

We stopped by the Heavenly Bridge Hot Spring. At the toll gate, the collector was a nice old man who made the point to tell me that there are evil, bad people out there and complimented me on how I was kind, nice and not one of them. He was a sweet old man.

The bridge wasn’t much to show for in my opinion. The hot spring for me was a draw. I wanted to go in but Mrs. Zhao refused to participate. She even said it was dirty backwash water and that she didn’t want to have anything to do with it. She implied it was dirty because it was run by Tibetans who were dirty. This really offended the driver. I decided the safest thing at that moment was for all of us to leave the place before any outbreak. Our driver told us there were two hot springs for the Tibetans and in rituals used over the New Years. They come to bathe here twice a day in a ceremonial ritual for purification for seven days. There are many things within Tibetan culture that are quiet closed within Tibetans. It is sacred to them and they refuse to be open about it fearing slander and destruction.

For dinner I went back to the veggie kabob stand in Old Town. I learned that the vendors pay a rent of 200 yuan a month for their stand.

Dressed to Play the Part

At the Sheep Lake, I stopped to recite for the land while the Zhaos stopped for a very long photo break at the dress up like a Tibetan stand. I ended up joining them and I put on an outfit too.



The Tibetan guy running the stand kept telling me how I need a man. He kept moving closer to me and insisted I have a photo with him because I need a man. I told him I didn't want any photos with him and finally had to tell him I had a boyfriend, but guess what that wasn’t good enough for him. He needed details of who he was, what tribe he was from, etc…. I couldn’t believe I had to make up a story just to shake him off. It was weird, if he didn’t approve of my boyfriend he would step in insisting on being the better replacement because he really did think he was all that. I had to guess the right things to say to him that he wanted to hear so he would back off, oh my goodness, what a trip

Dressed to Play the Part




At the Sheep Lake, I stopped to recite for the land while the Zhaos stopped for a very long photo break at the dress up like a Tibetan stand. I ended up joining them and I put on an outfit too.

The Tibetan guy running the stand kept telling me how I need a man. He kept moving closer to me and insisted I have a photo with him because I need a man. I told him I didn't want any photos with him and finally had to tell him I had a boyfriend, but guess what that wasn’t good enough for him. He needed details of who he was, what tribe he was from, etc…. I couldn’t believe I had to make up a story just to shake him off. It was weird, if he didn’t approve of my boyfriend he would step in insisting on being the better replacement because he really did think he was all that. I had to guess the right things to say to him that he wanted to hear so he would back off, oh my goodness, what a trip

Sheep Lake Horse Trail




We were dropped off at the head of a trail. We picked the horse trail instead of the pavement trail to head for the lake. The trail was so beautiful in fall colors and natural beauty. It was interesting to watch the couple. It's really interesting to see how kind they are but in the same time they are very self-centered. Their time was important and whatever they wanted to do there was always time. But if they have to wait for me then there was not time and it's really all my fault whatever that was. So I didn't give them any opportunity to dump their fatigue and distress on me. I just followed their schedule. It's just such an odd thing to see in a person. It's as if there are multiple people in one.

I knew that most typical Asians females are not trained in outdoor activities to be running trails. I knew looking at Mrs. Zhao that I would end up waiting for her on the trail and not the other way around. I really enjoyed the hike and hiked slow but kept it steady and enjoyed every bit of it. Dr. Zhao kept rushing and Mrs. Zhao tried to keep up but trailed last. She really didn’t have the right shoes on for comfort and hiking.

Deep Soulful Eyes



We went to the bus station and found out all the bus tickets were sold out and on top of it all, we missed the busses to De Ching for the day already. We were approached by taxi drivers. A Tibetan man was the most persistent among the drivers who followed us everywhere. I ended up negotiating the hired car price for the day and the Zhaos settled the deal. All the drivers wanted 200 yuan for the day. But I did the math and insisted that since the day was half over that we would only do 150 yuan and each person would pay 50 yuan. The Zhaos went for 60 yuan per person, in my math that only came down to a 20 yuan discount for half a day gone by. I didn’t think that was a very good settlement.

This driver did not enjoy the Zhaos as Mrs. Zhao had her lips stuck up her nose and insisted on being unhappy and never recovering from her unhappiness. I learned it was a sensitive thing of being in the service industry that the drivers all take it personal when their client was unhappy and they receive it as being looked down on and not properly treated like a human being when clearly it was just the client’s own head trip.

Anyways, we ended up going to Sheep Lake in the afternoon and bought tickets to De Ching for Sunday instead morning. The drive over to Sheep Lake was magnificently beautiful with the wide range of fall colors at its best. This driver had deep soulful eyes and actually had a lot of class. He said I looked like a Tibetan princess. He taught me Tibetan on the drive and many things about the culture. I quite enjoyed his company. He married barely reaching his twenty. Now 16 years later he has a son. He told me that if people don’t marry in the late teens or very early twenties, the chances of getting married later are slim, like trying to sell very old bread. This driver is in the commercial tourist industry but he was deeply rooted in Tibetan philosophy and ways of life that was grounded in ethics and culture. I picked up a bit of Tibetan while in Tibet and he knew the difference. I guess Tibetan from different regions spoke different variations of Tibetan and the insiders can tell.

Female Cab Drivers in China

We sought out a female cab driver to take us to the bus station. I have been watching her and really wanted to ride with her. I wanted to support female taxi driver. I noticed they are fair in their prices, they don’t cup people off, they don’t fight with other drivers and they don’t cuss at you when you don’t choose to hire them. Plus they tend to be more careful in their driving too. So I was really excited about getting into her car and told her about it.

Bread Car

When I got up in the morning, there was no running water. I learned right then and there that in this part of the world, water usage is conserved by water access time control. I wasn’t awake enough to be upset by this inconvenience. I let it be apart of my adventure along with moldy mildew showers.

Zhaos decided to move to another room with double beds and I continue to stay in the 7 bed dorm room. I was glad to not be in the same room with them because they are a bit intense. But how nice that we just met on the airport shuttle and they just included me as a part of their trip and took cared of me. Never mind of last night’s emotional episode by Dr. Zhao.

After the retrieval of their bag and moving to a double room, we tried to arrange a hire car to take us to De Ching to look at the Mei Li Snow Mountain. We saw a posting by the hostel front door bulletin for a hired car on his return trip back home to De Ching. Dr. Zhao called him and made arrangements. The driver said he would be right over so the Zhaos went and bought buns and boiled eggs for breakfast. I was a vegetarian and couldn’t eat what they bought. When the driver showed up with his "mien bao che" literally means bread car because it is shaped like a tiny loaf of bread that is often used to ship bread around in Asia, he went for breakfast first. I followed since now I had time to eat. Otherwise Zhaos wouldn’t let me eat because they didn’t want the driver to wait.

I waited for my noodles and the there was a lot of nervous activity from the Zhaos. Since they were more on the careful, intense nervous side, I didn’t think much of it. Dr. Zhao kept rushing me and I ate as fast as I could but any faster would make me throw it all up. He then pulled me to the room and Mrs. Zhao was very unhappy at this point as the driver waited outside. Dr. Zhao explained the situation to me. He said he saw the driver pop pills and asked him what they were for. The driver with bulging bloodshot red eyes from drinking and smoking too much said they were for hang-over because he drank last night. The driver was kind but a scary sight visually. Mrs. Zhao was not comfortable to be driven by a driver who is medicated for the mountain curvy roads. The driver was unhappy that he had been turned down over a few drinks that got him drunk last night but he’s sober and ready to go in the morning with medication he insisted. He didn’t see why anyone would be upset over it and felt extremely insulted by lack of trust in his professional skills. The driver looked like he was about to cry but he did physically look better after his medication kicked in.

It wasn’t good enough for Mrs. Zhao, she did not want to get into a car driven by someone with a massive hangover and when Mrs. Zhao is unhappy, Dr. Zhao is unhappy too. Dr. Zhao had already agreed to hire him and he didn’t want trouble from the driver. They both wanted me to go and tell the guy we didn’t want to hire him anymore. They didn’t want to be the bad guy so they gave me the job. I didn’t want to do it. I was not involved with the communication from the beginning and I won’t get involved now. So the driver was brought into the room by Dr. Zhao against my wishes, and I had to clean up the mess. I ended up telling the driver that it would be cheaper for us to take the bus and we have decided to save money and take the bus. The driver was more satisfied with my explanation and said this made more sense than getting upset over a few drinks that happened last night.

Dr. Zhao decided he would pay for half of the agreed amount as compensation to turn him away. He made me pay for half of the half of the compensation that I didn’t even agree on or was even a part of the discussion. If you do the math, it should have been 1/3 not half since there was three of us, even so I didn’t agree to it. It was all getting very interesting for me, ah…so much activity in 12 hours, so much drama and all I got out of it were 2 hours of Tibetan Folk dancing and a few veggie kabobs. We haven’t even begun the day officially yet and yet so much drama already.

Honest Bus Driver Saves the Day

The Zhaos did not recover that night and barely slept. They saw this loss of camera bag and wallet as a sign, a bad omen or something and they should head home right away. Except they didn’t have money to do so, it was all in the wallet including their air ticket.

They insisted on keeping the light on all night to keep the thieves away. I didn’t think they were paranoid. I felt their method as a local was due to experience and common knowledge. I slept with my hat over my eyes and as usual with my ear plugs on.

They both got up at 6:30am to go and flag down all the buses and by 9:30am they retrieved their bag. It turned out that the very honest driver did not want to report to the police because he was afraid he would be accused of taking stuff from the bag. So he just hung on to the bag as he drove. This driver refused to give his name or take any thanks. So the Zhoas recovered slowly from all these excitement in gratitude. I recommended that they go ahead and report this good deed to the papers and this was a way to thank the driver and support virtuous behavior. .

Stinky Westerners Don't Shower



On our way back Zhao left their camera bag and wallet on the bus. This brought the sky down for the Zhaos. They discovered this at the old town when they wanted to pay for something. They then chased after all the buses. They made reports to the police and the police showed up at the hostel. This made the owner of the hostel very upset. The owner then used this time to rub in salt by telling Dr. Zhao that he didn't understand the street way and shouldn't have reported to the police because of sensitive relationships with the cops. I told the Zhaos they did the logical thing.

In Old Town as I searched for food I ended up dancing in the town square with local Tibetans. I figured out that there are only about 10 moves thrown together in different combinations. Don't ask me to show you because I don't know any even though I danced for almost two hours. I just moved my body that was it. I didn't pick up any moves. I was so hungry that I was sneaking in pistachio nuts in between songs because I didn’t want to leave the dance circle. It was interesting to listen to Tibetan music mixed in with pop beat in the back. Even with the pop beat the movements are the same. I think my mom would like Tibetan traditional folk group dancing.


I have not been able to withdraw money here. I don't even know if they take my card because all three I tried had ATM machine trouble, either that or they didn't have an ATM machine. I really would not like to run out of money again and be in great distress and stuck.


While waiting for the free internet access here at the hostel the tv was on. At first the free internet service was only known to westerners. I was told to use the local internet café. I only knew about it because I saw a westerner use it and he told me about it. The TV was showing badminton world cup. I learned there was a country called Taipei, no ROC or Taiwan. I watched the women's double and secretly cheered for the Taipei team as they competed with mainland team. Tt was great even though they lost on the 3rd set. Everyone else here of course was glad the inland team won.


In terms of animals I've encountered in Tibet and here I must say I never really looked at animals this way. The working animals have bells on them. This must be annoying, always got the bell ringing in the ear all the time. Then the others are all for livestock. My experiences with animals have been in the form of pets, including pet chic and pet fish etc... Anyone who thinks it's cool to be an animal must never have been in livestock farms. It's just sad.


People here like to say Westerners don't take showers every day and does praise how they are into walking. I think it's really because Westerners I've encountered here really hold it out until they get proper western shower and toilet sometimes. I think it's a cultural mistake. They also say how Westerners are more optimistic and are more positive and full of encouragement. I for one refuses to use the showers here because some genius decided to build it in wood in a very humid environment. As a result it smells like mildew. Yup, I don’t want to be inhaling mildew.


Both of the girls working here like me and would like me to stay and work here. They said I could speak English here. I told them I don't have time to work here. But really, I already do speak English and I come from a place that speaks English and also makes for per hour than here. But I wouldn’t spoil their joy in their novelty of speaking English to westerners. Tonight for dinner I had BBQ veggies on charcoal off the street. I hope it all goes down well. It was cheap and it was veggie, lots of different kinds too.


At night I had to hang out late so the Zhoas can have space to just chill if possible and work through this major crisis for them and all the self guilt, blame, etc... I hung out till 11:45pm. I was very tired. At the room, after being belittled by the owner when the going was rough Dr. Zhao then decided to make his mark by telling me how I have to figure out what I want in terms of travel because he is not a person who takes other people's opinion well. He was basically laying power on me so he would feel better after being step all over by the owner. I didn't enjoy that but I can see where he was coming from and with all the distress he was feeling. I didn't get flattened by him even though he rudely stomped all over me. I was too tired to think or bother with this muscling or shall I say run me over to inflate and rebuild his own male ego.

Free the Pony



I proceeded to the field where there was a pony. He let me pet him and I recited the Heart Sutra, Mantras, and the Three Refuges. He kept showing me his hoof with a rope around it. I contemplated on letting him go. I told him he had no where to go. He didn't have wings. I was afraid when discovered he would be punished. Maybe he just wanted the freedom of not being stuck for a few minutes like a dog without a leash. I decided not to interfere and told him I was sorry and parted. I was sorry to not have carrots or fruits on me. I really wished I had carrots or fruits on me to feed him.

Three Little Pigs



We went to neighboring farm land. I followed the sounds of hogs to track them down for photos. When they saw me they ran for cover. A mama pig and 3 piglets ran towards a gate for cover. They banged on the door but it was locked. Then they all turned around because there was no where to go and looked nervously at me. I told them just two photos please.

The Seventh Dalai Lama



On the airport shuttle I found myself translating for all the foreigners. The only other Chinese people were a couple from LiJiang named Zhao. On the shuttle we chatted and decided we would travel together and split costs. Since I had no idea where to go and what to do, I thought I would just go along with their itinerary. I had no major plans here other than chill and look at beautiful scenery.

Mr. Zhao is a Traditional Chinese Medicine Doctor, who was in his forties and his wife was a nurse in her twenties. He found out I majored in psychology and wanted me to know that Freud is useless in real life. Translation,…basically what I learned was useless and he felt I needed to know that. I had to tell him I also studied photography. He didn't comment on this because he himself was into photography.

Dr. Zhao picked out the hostel and negotiated everything. I later learned he upset the owner's pride by trying to slash price and complained how terrible the place was. This backfired later in the evening. I had no problems with the beds. It's youth hostel style and I have been staying in these kinds of set up. The couple insisted that we stay in a three bed room with no one else in it. Anyways they were nervous and stressed about traveling so they watched out for thefts and safety. This then upset the owner even more because he felt that Dr. Zhao viewed his place and his people as thieves. I guess it really hurt his pride. In fact this owner as it turns out is a very family man and took a lot of pride in his creation and care of this hostel. He liked travelers and enjoyed meeting them and taking care of them. He likes to put on Latin music for atmosphere and took pride in having lots of foreigners here. It made him more western and somehow better than common locals without class or culture or success. We ended up in a 7 bed room. I don’t think the hostel was hostile to us, they were full and only had larger rooms available. Either way, it was just the three of us who had the whole room to ourselves.

We dropped our bags off and took a local bus #3 to the monastery. On the bus we met a man from Australia who left his tripod on the bus. Mr. Zhao was a good Samaritan and called 114 to get info on how to retrieve the tripod back even though this tourist didn’t mind replacing it because he said it was cheap to begin with and it’s even cheaper to replace one here.

We went to a monastery that had 700 resident monks. I just helped myself to tag onto a tour group and listened in on all the info. I learned the yellow sect of Tibetan Buddhism, the one the famous Lama that the West knows is in. I learned the 6th Dalai Lama passed away young. During his short lived life, he was into writing romantic novels and songs. People disapproved of this so when the 7th Dalai Lama came around people refused to recognize him. They even tried to poison him but there would be others who would swapped the food out to save him. When he found out about this, he faked his own death and ran with his mom to Shangrila. Here people honored him and he went into seclusion until the entire public recognized him as 7th Dalai Lama.

Afterwards I was happy to be able to speak to a Lama in the Blessing Hall, this is where one could buy beads that have been “Kai Gwang”. I thanked him for speaking to me. I told him I didn't get much response from Lamas in Tibet. He mentioned to me that maybe they didn't speak Mandarin and that this could have been the root cause of lack of friendliness. He said he recited the Peace Sutra for his practice and all 700 monks here eat together during lunch.

Cheap Flight to Zhong Dian, Yunnan



Yesterday I tried to get information on how to get to Shangrila by bus etc.. but the travel agent at the hostel was glued to the computer screen every time I peaked into the office. He was too sucked into the computer screen that he refused to do anything because he didn't want to be disturbed from his game of Solitaire. In the morning I got up early to make sure my stinky laundry would get cleaned by the in house laundry ladies. They refuse socks and underwear. When I got to the door, the sign said open at 9:30am. So I decided to make use of my half an hour of wait by trying again at the reception to make calls to find a way to Yunnan, but no one picked u on the other end. I came across a French couple who was checking out and was on their way to the airport to Shangrila. I asked them to wait for me while I grab my bag so we could share the cab together. I was glad they were friendly and let me ride with them. They even refused to let me pay for my share of the cost. They didn’t care for haggling with the driver on the actual cost of the cab to the airport. It was suppose to be 30 yuan per person, the French asked for 140, the driver wanted 180 yuan, I wanted 120 yuan but we settled on 150 yuan for all three of us. The French only accepted 10 yuan from me.

I made it to the airport 3 minutes before they closed the counter for the flight. The French had given me their flight information so I knew about it and was able to direct the agent at the counter to the exact flight. I got 50 percent off my flight because it was 3 minutes to closing of all ticket purchase for that flight and paid 860y to Zhong Dian a.k.a Shangrila. It was a good price, the train is almost the same. The bus would have taken me 3 day and 2 nights on bumpy rocky barfing but beautiful ride. I also heard stories of theft on that ride. Unfortunately due to my last minute hast run out of the hostel, I missed my meeting with the elder Tibetan woman. I was very much looking forward to meeting her this morning at 10:30am. I left the hostel in a hurry, only said a quick good bye with Rupert and didn't have time to bid my good byes with Stef and Nate.

On the plane I met a very nice, tall, happy, and pretty flight attendant. I sat next to two ladies from Kumming who nagged me for not putting my backpack onto the bin. Some how they were ready to disapprove of me and was determined to be unhappy sitting next to me. I wonder if it had anything to do with me sitting next to the window. Then they spilled their water in their bag and made a major mess. I helped them out and offered both of them crackers and didn't fuss at them for making a mess. This softened them up. They became nice to me and offered to help me with my bags if I needed. That was a nice change.