Dancing Through the Night

In the morning, I left with the two ladies from Canton to Tai Yuan a major city in Shannxi Provence. I decided to figure out where my next destination would be after that. I had a few options of checking out PingYao the historical town and then go to Luoyang for the Grottos there then to Xian or just do Ping Yao skip Luoyang and then to Xian or just to Xian straight. We left on a chartered bus that ended up taking an extra two hours on a three hour journey. The bus illegally went around to pick up passengers like a local bus. People were running out towards the front door to throw up out the door while the driver continued to drive stopping only to make money.

We finally arrived in Tai Yuan five hours later and there was still plenty of time to do things before the Cantonese women’s flight out in the late afternoon. Being the National Holiday weekend, it was recommended that I get my train ticket first. Liang helped me cut in line. I went for it because the train station was packed with hundreds of people in line. I was stunned, I have never encountered this before. I bought a train ticket for Luoyang however sales lady refused to answer any of my questions. I later learned it was a standing ticket to Luoyang for 12+ hours in the evening. I went to a travel agency across from the station and they reimbursed me the ticket for me. This travel agency had a really nice boss. All the workers there were nice. He was not a shark, but not dumb either, every ethical.

With the help of my friends, I bought the cheapest cell phone possible. I like the Chinese system of calling card style, no monthly plans, contracts, etc…..I decided to go to the airport with my friends to catch a flight to Xian. I only had 60 yuan on me after the cell phone purchase, I figured I could charge the ticket on my credit card. I got to the airport and parted with my friends who spent the whole afternoon hand holding me and helping me take care of my business while sacrificing their own tour time of Tai Yuan. I proceeded to buy a ticket and learned they only take China credit cards. I went looking for an ATM machine but learned there weren’t any there. I was out of cash. I had to get into a cab, with a nice driver to locate ATM. I learned my card only works with Bank of China and most other banks do not accept my ATM card because I have a checking account and most people in China do not have a checking account. In fact some banks don’t even offer such a function. It took a long time in traffic to finally come across the right ATM. I told the driver, I didn’t have enough money to pay him so we must locate an ATM or else I won’t be getting off the taxi. I wondered how I would have spent the night without money for food, shelter, or transportation. Finally, I made it into a bank as the were locking the doors and was able to withdraw money.

I ended back in the travel agency and decided to take a bus to Xian. The owner of the travel agency sent one of his tour guide worker to walk me to the bus station to purchase a ticket for me. This young man was studying to be a tour guide. His main route was to Ping Yao. The earliest ticket available was next morning at 6am. I felt that was too late and wanted something overnight. I decided to wait at the bus station to see if I could trade my ticket in or for no shows. This nice man sat with me for an hour to accompany out of his good will and recommended I stay at a hotel for the night to get a good rest that his boss would be able to set me up for a place for 10 yuan because he is in the business.

I tried to get onto an evening bus to Xian with my next day ticket, I waited for a no show spot as I sat in one regardless. The driver kept telling me how I couldn’t get onto the bus with my ticket. I explained with the no show, surely I could fit. The driver continued to tell me how I need to buy another ticket and I didn’t understand him. He offered a fold out stool for me on the isle but I would have to get on from the corner street and not this parking lot. I didn’t want to sit on a stool in the isle for 10 hours to Xian through the night. I was confused and didn’t sort it all out till later. Well, the no show showed up right before roll off and the bus was sold out. I had to get off. I later learned there were two separate bus companies in this station and I had the bus ticket for the competing company that was why they said I had to buy another ticket even if there was a no show. The whole get on at the corner thing, well, having me sit in the isle on a folding stool was illegal and they are not allowed to do so.

Well I went back to the ticketing area and waited and waited at the station and decided to recited the Surangama Mantra quietly to pass time. Three high school girls next to me decided to move far away from me. In fact, no one sat near me at that point. I quickly took noticed how people are afraid of religion in this country. Lack of exposure and knowledge creates fear among the people. I think I won’t pull out my beads in public in the future here in China or sit cross legged to meditate.

Time went on and the counter closed its windows. People at the station decided to lay and rest on the benches for the night. Then the security came and kicked everyone out because they were closing for the evening. I guess this bus station is not the same as the train station that stays open all night.

I paired up with three high school girls who were also going to stay at the station. They didn't want to spend 10yuan a bed to rest for the evening. It was beyond their budget. So at 11:30pm all four of us teamed up to stick together for company and safety. We walked the street wondering where we could sit down for the night. We went to a park nearby and waited while one of the girls went to check out the all night movie package to see the possibility of sleeping in the movie theatre. It was more than 10 yuan a person and beyond the other two girl’s budget. We sat in the park until some men who had been drinking started to move closer to us. We decided to move on for our safety.

We ended up walking some more and checked out all rehearsals for 10/1 performance. It’s amazing how these people picked 12am to start their rehearsal. It was all very hilarious to me, and the program was not worth staying for.

Finally we ended up in front of a bank next to the bus station. There were too many people sleeping outside the bus station and we didn’t feel safe there. We sat on the steps of this bank for awhile until we shivered terribly. We had to get up and dance to stay warm. We ended up entertaining each other to keep company and to stay warm. It was quite a sight and ended up being fun too. I was so exhausted. At one point, some one from the bus station screamed, “Don’t steal my things!” and a fight broke out. It was good thing we were together and not over there.

One of the girls who aspired to be an elementary school dance teacher advised me to be married because I am in the marriage age and I should when I come across someone to marry, that it would be better for me. It was funny to hear this from her because I just met her a few hours ago, she really cared for me whole heartedly, had no judgments against me, and had no agenda of her own. This combination was hard to come by and was truely worthy of my time to consider her advice with my heart.

All three of the girls wanted to be teachers in the elementary school system. They even had their subjects all picked out. They were very sweet and nice. There was a kind of simplicity in their lifestyle that made them very soothing and peaceful to be with. It’s hard to come across that nowadays I think. They didn’t have any hint of darkness from jealousy or competitiveness. They were hard working people who strived to do the best in their life not at any expense of others. It was fun and completely worthwhile to not spend the 10 yuan for a bed at a hotel, I would have otherwise missed this opportunity of hanging out with them while freezing in the cold wind.

Soft Hail on North Peak

I packed my bags, parted with the monastery and headed to join a car for a tour of 5 peaks. I met up with Ai from Beijing and two women from Guang Dong at the Car For Hire Center in town. We all met each other for the first time and decided to form a group together. We each had to pay 250 yuan for visiting all five peaks. It turned out to be a 12 hour day tour. Ai is an aristocrat, in the family blood line of Emperor Chien Long. The other two women make regular visits to the peaks because they have had real response to their prayers here. It was a fun car trip, even the cab driver was great. He warned us about where not to go, you'd get sick and you'd have to go back to the monastery for a healing, etc...... terrible stuff.

I love the mountain ranges here, they are beautiful to me. I like North peak and East peak the best. I like the energy in north peak. It hailed softly when we arrived. That might have been the last time anyone can enter north peak for this season.

On this peak, Ai and I discussed the subject of immigration. He works for a network station in Beijing. He says he owns a car and because of his job, he has access to many places that people normally don’t. He said he has a friend who can line him up with a job in US to do culinary work in a restaurant and work on his immigration paper work. I think I spoke for an hour straight, questioning whether or not he had his head together to trade in his chilled lifestyle here in Beijing as an aristocrat to go wash dishes in a restaurant and never get to really learn English or move on in life because he was too busy making ends meet on minimum wage. It sounds good when you do the currency conversion. But I reminded him that he’s doing better here in Beijing and that the currency conversion isn’t an accurate standard to base things on. People forget to take off standard of living expenses and then do the ratio and compare.

During lunch, one of the woman asked me why I don't burn incense etc....... The other woman replied for me,” I get it, it’s bad for pollution right!” I told her, syin yi is good enough. They didn't quite compute and I didn’t know how to go about explaining it either.

I stayed with women that night at a hotel. The room was heated and there was hot water for shower. I was happy to and feeling much better. It was 20 yuan a bed, we got a deal somehow, the receptionist upgraded us as soon as I became an addition to their room. In the bedroom, for some reason both women asked me about cultivation and Dharma. I’m not sure why, because I certainly don’t look the part at all. Cheng asked me how to help her mother who has been sick for the past 6 months. I recommended the method of transference. They have never heard of it and could not believe in its simplicity and empowered effectiveness. They felt insecure of such a method and wanted to go to locate a special someone who can do a special something for them.

Four Blankets in the Mirror Tile Room

For the evening I returned to my room at the Nunnery. The room was brand new, Taiwan style, everything tiled, etc.. and it smelled of fresh paint. The materials selected for décor were suitable for the hot humid Taiwan weather and not cold Wu Tai Shan weather. There was no hot water for shower. I learned they are into so called bitter practice. The more bitter the practice, means the more sincere, the more of not wasting blessings. Some how all of this is suppose to impress someone or add up to enlightenment

A nun who kept watch of me, ready to pound me raided my room and ran through my things many times. I didn’t mind and didn’t bother with wondering how life is on Wu Tai Shan that they have to work this way. I was sick, I had a terrible fever, my throat was all swollen, my body ached, I could barely speak or move. My fourth chakra swelled up into the size of a softball. I could only breathe by laying my body in a certain way. And this elder nun who was looking for any opportunity to pound me was not being understanding, I was not warm enough. I used all four blankets in the room and layered it over me. Because they tile everything and glass everything and mirror everything, it's especially cold there and difficult to retain heat. They could have offered me a coat or something for my legs. My jacket was enough for the day, it's just my legs along with this cold that makes it difficult to get up for morning ceremony and do evenings. Well, she didn't offer and I didn't ask.

She implied I was thoughtless, selfish of possible late comers who may join my room. I told her when there are other guests around I will share, now it's just me. She was into telling me, I was sick because I lack merit and virtue. Duah...... A Buddha is complete, everyone else it not. How's that going to heal or make me better. I just played dumb, that I knew nothing about Buddhism etc.....

The Chi on the mountain was good. Meditating in my room was good. But I decided then that I would leave the next morning and not meet their teacher who people revere. It's terrible but yes, it does reflect on my impression of their teacher. They are into saying they cultivate there, they cultivate bitter practice, they hold precepts strictly. But, lots of rules and what's it got to do with wisdom, and the rules aren't even uniform. It's such a circus on the mountain that I'd say they are doing okay, they are trying and so this should count for something, they are Pureland school, of Jing Kung.

Circus in Town

Also went to town where the White Pagoda was. It is said to hold one of Shakyamuni Buddha’s relic. I did the circling of prayer wheel around this pagoda. I paid attention to those who dressed the part but wanted tourist money lurking close by. Some even followed us. Bao as a local, kept me safe and unharassed as his guest. People who we passed by demanded answers to many question, mainly to calculate in their head how to go about making money off of me however, Bao was skillful in dodging every question and I kept my mouth shout while he did all the interface.

Right in this same square was a Chinese Opera Theatre. There were performers singing and a live orchestra too. The whole atmosphere felt like a circus to me.

Magic Water

We also stopped by a running spring that was also very sweet. And the story that goes with this spring water is this. A monk made a vow to recite a particular sutra thirty thousand times. It took him three years. He vowed that when he finished, a spring would come forth from this place. It is said that such a response did result and he retired after that and passed on. This spring still runs today. People believe in it’s healing abilities. I went along with it and washed my face with the water and asked for a healing to help me release the yin, icy chi blocking the channels of my back.

Thieves Who Raided the Dead

We then visited a Tibetan Monastery. Rumor has it that there were two flesh body cultivators who are sealed behind a wall. During the Cultural Revolution, people tried to raid the wall. They succeeded in locating the wall and attempted to remove the jewel that was in their mouths. It was a Chinese custom for those who have passed on to have a jewel in their mouth. The element that was most often used was jade. The story goes, when the thieves tried to pull the jewel out of the mouth, the lips started to bleed and they ran away screaming leaving the jewel in place.

Rebirth Through Lady Maya's Womb

In the morning, the security guard took it upon himself to run me through all the not to dos on this mountain. He also set me up with a tour group that was passing by to make room to take me in. There was no room but they made room, I squatted the whole way. We headed for a cave called Lady Maya's Womb to do the squeeze through. People see it or it was marketed as a place for rebirth, to start over. Those with blessings can make it through and those without it won’t. I think if you were thin enough you can.

I met a monk on the trail who offered me a card, I didn't want it. But somehow it was in my hand and then he asked for donation. I made an offering because I was up for making an offering to a monk not because this card was blessed by 1000 monks. I did one of the security guard’s list of not to dos, take anything offered by monks on the mountain because it would only lead to spending money. So I let this one go by as a warm up. But was able to avoid the ones on the path who called people in to tell them something in secrete and demanded money from you.

On the trail there were caged small animals for purchase to carry out the merit of liberating life. The thing is, these vendors then catch them again to do business with the next customer on the mountain. So much for liberating life, it’s more like a scam.

The whole trek involved climbing 1,600+ steps. I befriended a guy named Bao from Inner Mongolia. He had one working leg, the other he lost during an accident at work 5 years ago. Now he repairs shoes to make a living on Wu Tai Shan to raise his son by himself. I saw in his eyes a kind gentle light that was clear so I felt safe talking to him. I also befriend a mother son duo of Chen from Hubei, Wu Dang Shan. He had light on his face and he was filial. He’s on this pilgrimage to pray for his mother’s well being. He hopes she will become a Buddhist and start taking care of her practices. He's really into blessings, special this and that. He is of Ningma order of the Tibetan School.

It was fun hiking with them. They joked the whole way and told stories to pass time. I learned that the pilgrims were trying hard for a spiritual response and the key to response was sincerity. So the subject of bowing and sincerity was on and most people agreed the Tibetan way of full prostration passes for sincerity because it is more of a work out. It's funny how someone's idea of hardship is somehow better. Why look for hardship when it finds you, is what I think.

Both Chen and I made it into the cave. Bao was on a crutch with only one working leg and Mrs. Chen was in her 80's walking with a cane. They gave up trying. It wasn’t that they lacked blessings to make it through the cave, they both gave up too easily. Their method was off and they didn't turn their hip right to roll through the hole. Chen was very disappointed that his mother refused to make it through the hole after all this traveling in getting her here and the sixteen hundred steps. He had prepared a special ceremony he was going to lead in the cave, it meant a lot to him. Chen is very filial and wants to save his mother from paths of suffering. This trip was for her. He wanted her to acquire some Dharma insurance by getting blessings here and there. The disappointment was on their faces, I can already see how they already classified themselves as lower class, so much fate and deterministic thinking. What's the use of dharma if you can't turn things around is what I think. But I’m not going to impose my idea of what Dharma is on them.

While in Lady Maya’s Womb, I prayed and asked for guidance on how to go about protecting all living beings with kindness and compassion. I repented for past evil harm I have created onto all beings.

On the way down we had spring water that was sweet and really quenched the thirst. Chen decided to celebrate our gathering and brought out tea leaves from Putuo Shan, Guan Yin Bodhisattva’s Mountain and we made tea with Manjushri Mountain Spring water of Wu Tai Shan.. I missed having tea. I didn’t bring any on this trip thinking I would buy some on the tea street in Beijing but I didn’t find it on my last day of stay there. Chen was kind to give some to me for the road.

Chen tells me that the way to learning Dharma is through connections. You know this person, who knows this person, who then knows that person who can hook you up with this person who knows that teacher who can privately pass Dharma to you. I really don’t know what to make of this system. I am just grateful that my teacher Ven. Hsuan Hua made education of the Dharma free of connections and money. He is truly revolutionary, I am so glad I had the affinity to come across his teaching this lifetime.

Five Peaks Mountain

The driver smoked the whole way I lowered the window the whole way and caught a cold after hours of cold wind blowing into my head. We entered Wu Tai Shan, Five Peaks Mountain in the evening, the driver insisted I stay at his connected inn and refused to take me to Bai Yun Shi, White Cloud Nunnery where I wanted to stay. I refused to get off the car insisting this was not our agreement. He tried to peel me away from the seat and I hung onto the dash board. Even the elderly couple tried to convince me to back down and deal with it tomorrow to avoid a fight. I was scared, and had no idea what was planned for me in the inn. I refused to get off the car reminding him how unethical he was and that such acts lacked virtue. The driver yelled at me and then, demand more money from me. I had already paid him plenty but he already had the money so I couldn’t threaten him of not paying him. I finally agreed to the added 20 yuan for him to drive me for another 5 minutes in the cold dark night on this unfamiliar mountain.

I did not make prior arrangements to stay at the nunnery so I didn’t know if I could even get in. The security guard at the monastery front gate was very nice in helping me get in and pretty much took care of me the entire time. I had to meet with the guest prefect and she was nice to agree to take me in. I learned how useful and important it was to have my refuge booklet with me. But I left mine in storage box along with everything else I owned in Fremont. I was glad to have a place to rest in a Nunnery and be done with the driver.

Getting My Facts Straight

At the baggage pick up station I was approached by the same taxi driver who wanted me to put my luggage in his car. He insisted that I agreed to sit in his car to Xuan Kong Si, Midcliff Monastery. He wanted me to pay 100 yuan. I negotiated for 50 thinking I was the only rider in the car and felt I did a good job. But the fact was the car was full of riders and with this combination the entire car ride should have been 60 split by every one in the car. The driver talked big about how he is a Buddhist, showed us his certificate and talked big about what virtues of Buddhist Disciples etc… I confronted him about lying and making a dishonest business transaction with me as a Buddhist. All the passengers sat quietly with their lips closed tight and head turned outward towards the window looking nervously. I realized that confrontation, speaking was not a common thing people are used to doing and they were afraid of possible conflict, argument etc… I may have made my point but this did not matter to the driver who would never see us again. He still charged me 50 instead of 20 yuan.

I was given 20 minutes to see Midcliff Monastery made of wood in mid-cliff because the taxi driver connected me with his brother who had two clients headed for Wu Tai Shan and will be picking me up in 20 minutes. I ran through this visit. It’s quite amazing how the architect made the entire wood monastery hang off a cliff. There is only room for one person at a time on the monastery paths. It’s a steep fall downward.

My poster Buddhist taxi driver pulled me aside and told me I had to give the 100 yuan upfront for my ride to Wu Tai Shan. I later learned what a mistake this was and would never do it again. We parted and I sat in his brother’s taxi. Right away I noticed he didn’t have a meter or any kind of licensing posted. Behind me were two elderly couples on their way to a wedding in Tai Yuan and is taking a tour on their way there. I later learned they prepaid to book the car for a whole day for 200 yuan. That booking a car for 200 yuan was the going rate for locals. Then the money I paid should have gone to them but the driver took it for himself. We stopped at the wooden Pagoda, it was 950 years old, no nails, survived a lot of historical wars and natural disasters. And after all that it still stands tall in the midst of very poor community with two apartment buildings sticking out like a sore thumb painted in pink. I like the color pink, but this really didn’t work. The elderly couple was very nice to me and took good care of me.

A Familiar Friend, Guan Yin Bodhisattva

I had trouble getting rest last night. I woke up this morning with pains in my body at 3:30am. I stayed awake for my early plane ride to Datong. I got to the airport very early. I booked a driver, this driver refused to let me split cost with other riders to the airport with similar flight time. Instead he had me get up very early to drive me solo to the airport. This way he can make maximum amount of money by increasing his trips to the airport. Having arrived so early at the airport, I spent most of my time watching the young workers interact and work with each other. I learned that their job description is very specified. They are individually on a need to know basis and that they don’t have basic knowledge of other aspects of work aside from their very simple repetitive job description.

I flew to Datong and inhaled more pollution. The main source of income for the area here is the coal mine. Not a spot of blue sky anywhere. I went to use the restroom and one of the airport workers decided she would let the public bus go thinking there were no passengers left. I ran after the bus but missed it. So I had no ride because this was the only plane for the morning and the bus is not schedule to return till the next flight lands.

What awaited me were the taxi sharks who wanted an arm and leg and told me everything takes an hour when it only took 20 minutes. I picked the one that had the brighter light in his face, everyone else looked dark and their features were all scrunched up. The sharks all had agreement that they would not drive for less than 100 yuan. I knew that was too much. I looked for the airport staff and she refused to answer any of my questions. She didn’t want to upset the sharks who she deals with everyday all day long. I knew I had to pay more than I need to but I was stuck at the airport otherwise. I ended up negotiating to pay 70 yuan for a 20 yuan 15 minute ride. I am learning how to be smart about my money and also when to use money to make things work for me.

As I landed in Yungang caves more taxi sharks of the same showed up like flies to honey. I told then to go away. One of them wanted me to put my things in his car so I can ride in his car later. I refused and checked my bags at baggage check in. I headed for the restroom again. When I came out, a local dirty looking thug decided to stand there and charge me 1/2 yuan for using the public toilet. I told him he had no permission to do such a thing, he chased after me and I ran and threw a coin at him. He stopped chasing me and strolled away happy at the fact that he was able to bully me into throwing a coin at him.

Visiting the caves, I partnered with a couple from Vancouvor originally from Hong Kong and then we tagged along a guided tour. They took me in like I was their daughter. It was very nice of them to do so. They recommend that I stay with them and that they wouldn’t mind if I followed their itinerary for the rest of their stay in China. I was surprised at their proposal and thanked them for being so inclusive.

The caves were beautiful. I had a great time. I liked how the images were strong, solid, soft, welcoming all in the same time. One of the last images I visited had damaged parts but I like the energy of it and so I drew near it. I later read the caption and realized it was an image of Guan Yin Bodhisattva. I stood their and wondered what is it, how is it I recognize her and like to draw near her?